Battery Dead - 19000 miles

[avenali312]

I've seen enough posts saying you don't need coding for US models.

I've seen a lot of similar posts. I decided to do the coding simply because I was going to a new battery size and type. Only took a few minutes with OBDeleven after watching Scott's (StealthGTI) YouTube video covering the topic.

My battery will soon be 4 1/2 years and 45000 miles old and is still going strong, the car has only done around 80-100 miles per week on the weekends for the last 6 months or so! No laboured starts or strange behaviour ever, My Wolfsburg built GTi has a Banner branded battery fitted from new, what brand are the factory fitted batteries on NAR cars?

The problem I've had with both my MKV and MK7 is that there is absolutely no warning. Both times I've had a dead battery, I had recently parked the car, it sat for about an hour, went back to it and it wouldn't start.

 

[KevinC]

My Wolfsburg built GTi has a Banner branded battery fitted from new, what brand are the factory fitted batteries on NAR cars?

We see all kinds over here - my new R has a Varta. Old R had an Exide, a turd that died right at 24 months. Puebla-built GTIs have several different suppliers.

 

[ReadTheBook]

Short distance driving will kill a battery sooner unless it's hooked up to a battery manager at least once a week.

Explain the 2005 battery in our '90 Cabby that still holds a steady 13.7v. I can't!
No battery tender and this time of year. Gets driven 1-2 times a month 18 miles round trip to work by my wife. Wasn't on a battery tender when previous owner had it either and it was barely driven. Car only has 40k original miles on it.

Only took a few minutes with OBDeleven after watching Scott's (StealthGTI) YouTube video covering the topic.

The problem I've had with both my MKV and MK7 is that there is absolutely no warning. Both times I've had a dead battery, I had recently parked the car, it sat for about an hour, went back to it and it wouldn't start.

@StealthGTI 's video was definitely very handy and I really liked the idea of putting in a replacement date code for the new serial number. Good strategy.

My wife's '15 Golf SE started getting noticeably longer cranks, especially as the mornings got colder in December here in the Bay Area. It didn't die on us completely but I figured at 6 years old and showing that sign, I might as well preemptively replace it at Costco for a good price.

 

[art_mark7]

mine was out well below 2 years mark.

 

[Parabola]

Really unusual for it to last that long.

Just looked at the battery, made by Varta, Germany. It’s not even that big.

 

[wizmk7gti]

15 gti, 1st lasted 2 years, 2 year warranty. Replaced with a 3 year,lasted 3. New one is 5 year. All from vw.

 

[kwp gti]

Thanks to everyone. The dealer replaced the battery under warranty. I should be good for another two years. Whenever the time comes, I will look for a bigger battery option. I agree with the previous post that the battery seems to die without warning. My 2012 battery gave absolutely no warning. My 2017 started to require me to hold the start button a little longer for the engine to turn over. This lasted for about a week before it totally died. Not sure if the keyless start versus keyed start made it noticeable that the battery was fading.

 

[dosjockey]

2017 GTI SE in Florida. I am very close to work and usually only make short distance drives in hot weather. Not shocked the battery died. The last couple of days I had to hold the start button down a little longer than normal for it to turn over. My 2012 GTI battery died in a similar time-frame back in the day. I took it to the dealer and it was about $300 and change.

My question is: should I go to dealership for a replacement or are there better options out there? Cost is not a concern, just wondering what the best option would be and what battery would need to be specd and is the best option if I do not go the dealer route. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

Edit: Well, the last two posts weren't showing. I suppose the question's been answered already by warranty.

Regardless, here was my reply: See if Northstar makes a compatible unit. You're killing the things fairly quickly. It's time to step up the game.

From the day they hit the scene with their brand new factory they grew like nobody's business, and they've been at the pinnacle of lead acid battery production technology. When I spoke with them at the time, I found the engineers had split from Enersys and had been responsible for the Odyssey project. You can think of a Northstar like a "perfected" Odyssey; it's got all the benefits, but you can treat it like any old battery. They just don't care what you do to them, and will come back from states that would be terminal for any other battery... Because you can kick the hell out of them until they do.

Warranties are long, not prorated, and no bullshit. If it fails, you get another one. Done and done. No hassle.

They're expensive, and they're heavier by group than... Well, anything else, really, but there are reasons for that. If you're killing batteries that fast, this is the sort of unit you want to be considering. You'll find these in some police fleets, EMS stuff, storage for solar integration, and things of that nature; you'll also find it at DB drag meets, under the hoods of overland vehicles, at rock crawling competitions...

If Northstar doesn't have it, try the original project. Odyssey batteries are tough, as well, but they can be a little finicky to maintain, and are picky about how they're charged. In actual performance, they're about the same.

 

[Elwood]

Have a couple Northstars in my VWs. They make a Group 48 that fits.

 

[YamR1rider]

I've seen a lot of similar posts. I decided to do the coding simply because I was going to a new battery size and type. Only took a few minutes with OBDeleven after watching Scott's (StealthGTI) YouTube video covering the topic.



The problem I've had with both my MKV and MK7 is that there is absolutely no warning. Both times I've had a dead battery, I had recently parked the car, it sat for about an hour, went back to it and it wouldn't start.

Same here for me - while I'm not convinced the coding does anything on NA cars which don't have the battery monitoring terminal, I figured it wouldn't hurt given it only takes a minute of your time with obdeleven.

Mine also went out after 2 years with zero warning - started fine at home for that trip, but was then dead as a nail after stopping for gas. Luckily I had my little jump box with me - I'd highly recommend everyone keep one of those gadgets in the glove box.

 

[itsstan]

My 2017 started to require me to hold the start button a little longer for the engine to turn over.

There's no need to hold the start button, just tap it. The car will crank the engine till it starts. You can busy yourself with other tasks such as closing your door or putting your seatbelt on while the car does the starting. Sounds ridiculous, but I love that feature. This is becoming commonplace for cars with keys too, just turn the key to the start position and let go.

 

[greggles]

Same here for me - while I'm not convinced the coding does anything on NA cars which don't have the battery monitoring terminal, I figured it wouldn't hurt given it only takes a minute of your time with obdeleven.

Mine also went out after 2 years with zero warning - started fine at home for that trip, but was then dead as a nail after stopping for gas. Luckily I had my little jump box with me - I'd highly recommend everyone keep one of those gadgets in the glove box.

Have a recommendation on portable jump starters?

 

[YamR1rider]

Have a recommendation on portable jump starters?

Although there seems to be an element of pot luck picking a jump starter as it's hard to find good reviews, this is the one most similar to the older one I have: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DJ5CR2C/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_W-WpEbAWKFGSF

What I was impressed with is that I had forgotten to charge it in over 6 months (I usually try to remember to top it off once per month). But after hooking it up and waiting about 20 seconds, car started straight away at the gas station, I then needed it again leaving my friends house who I was visiting, and then again leaving Advance Auto parts after buying a new battery (they wouldn't install for me, said they weren't allowed as battery needed professional installation etc).

These jump boxes seem to be getting cheaper all the time - no reason not to have one. I have since also used it to start my mother in law's car and also helped a random lady stuck in the Target parking lot.

 

[dosjockey]

There's no need to hold the start button, just tap it. The car will crank the engine till it starts. You can busy yourself with other tasks such as closing your door or putting your seatbelt on while the car does the starting. Sounds ridiculous, but I love that feature. This is becoming commonplace for cars with keys too, just turn the key to the start position and let go.

I hate that crap with a passion. The starter is now useless for anything aside from starting the car, and it's one more thing to go wrong.

Turn the key, be patient for two seconds, and be done with it. This is why cheap junk is so expensive now, it's why people don't know how to do anything, and it's why nothing lasts for any length of time anymore.

Others buying that crap forces me to endure it, so yes, I make it my business to run my mouth.

 

[RichardCranium]

I've seen enough posts saying you don't need coding for US models.

I don't think you need the coding as long as it's the same size battery.

Warm climates are hard on batteries. I live in Arizona and mine didn't even make it to the two year mark. I replaced it with one from Vatozone with a three year warranty for $150.