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B4 vs B6 Bilstein (Damptronic)

RudyH

Go Kart Champion
Location
Kitchener, ON
I was about to pull the trigger on the B6's as I am able to get 30% off right now which I am pretty excited for. However, from reading posts, is it what I want?
I want to maintain Damptronic, as I do some highway and like the comfort of Normal mode, even Eco / Comfort at times when I am locked in with ACC and cruising for a couple hours. I do enjoy driving most of the time in Race mode around town, and Normal feels fine in winter time.

Meanwhile, I do find Race with the OEM's are as stiff as I would want, car handles fantastic and I am not sure if I want to go stiffer which I believe from reading the B6's do.

That said, is there a performance upgrade (besides the car feeling better without blown shocks / struts) with the B4's?

Some said the general Bilstein technology is better then OEM, so you will have a much nicer ride with the B4's.

Reading other reviews, it seems like go with the B6's and don't regret it, Eco / Comfort I didn't hear anything definitive but I feel like Normal becomes more like Race, and Race is a new level of fun.

Hard to find a comparison, but thought I would get some feedback, especially after some have put miles on their setups
 

krs

Autocross Champion
Location
Las Vegas, NV
Car(s)
MKVIIS R
I have the B16's - B6 coilovers - to retain the DCC. The comfort is not overally harsh in my opinion, and it wasn't as stiff as the OEM was on race. I'd even say the normal isn't quite as firm as the OEM race, maybe close though. Now the race I can definitely tell if I left it on after an autocross and drive into town. I have used the race on the street, mainly for the canyon cruising, but really only use it for autocross. I find I flip between the comfort and the normal quite often.

Are you on the OEM springs?
 

SouthFL_Mk7.5

Autocross Champion
Location
South Florida
Car(s)
2019 GTI S
Different vehicle but I had B4’s paired with H&R Sport Springs on a B5.5 Passat wagon and they were underdamped. I thought the 10% firmer than factory claim would be enough but the car was still floaty.
 

Cuzoe

Autocross Champion
Location
Los Angeles
Can you get the B4's with the discount? My opinion only, running B4 Damptronics, but if you like the way the car rides now in all three modes then no reason to risk all of those modes moving "1 step up" with B6's, as is often reported. The B16 damptronics are a different thing kind of, only controlling rebound per some testing done here, as opposed to compression and rebound control. The B4's are the OEM replacements so should feel closest to the factory fresh feeling of the OEM setup. I care more about comfort (by a long shot) than I do about Sport/Race. So for me Comfort getting less comfortable is not something I would trade for Sport/Race getting Sport-ier/Race-ier.

Whatever you get, do the DCC calibration after install.

Different vehicle but I had B4’s paired with H&R Sport Springs on a B5.5 Passat wagon and they were underdamped. I thought the 10% firmer than factory claim would be enough but the car was still floaty.
Is that with DCC?
 

RudyH

Go Kart Champion
Location
Kitchener, ON
Sorry I should add I have MSS Springs now, but probably move towards a fixed spring - likely something along the lines of Eibach, or MAYBE EMD's. I have never adjusted the springs as I was intending to raise during the winter and lower for summers, but I don't have the patience to go in for an alignment twice a year.

I have to admit I daily in Race mode right now, and rarely use Normal - so I suppose I missed that part, so I would likely run a custom 'Normal' DCC /w Race everything, then when I want to have fun go into Race mode. Again though I love Race as it is and I might not want to stiffen up comfort / eco.

I thought I was getting float, but I did a DCC calibration last night (hit a nasty pot hole in Montreal visiting inlaws and I KNOW I got air from it), and the float is gone again...I'm pretty sure though my shocks are done (lowered and 80,000 km (50,000 miles)).

Did some number crunching quickly, it looks like the shop offering the 30% has it set at the same price as in the US...regardless its such a small price gap, I feel like go with the B6's and will enjoy
So B4 - $1352 US ($1735 CAD) and B6 - $1502 ($1929 CAD) - so the price isn't
 

Cuzoe

Autocross Champion
Location
Los Angeles
I'm not sure I understand, or the sarcasm has gone clear over my head, haha. So you did a calibration with VCDS or OBDEleven; on a lift/stands all wheels hanging, fully extended, run DCC Basic Settings... and then you went on a drive where you caught some air? And now it feels better?

Neither the B4 or B6 damptronics are intended for lowering springs. Doing the calibration mitigates that concern somewhat, reportedly. But if you're going to be lowered the B6's might be a better choice as they are uprated performance wise. Maybe they'll handle being lowered a little better.

Typical reports are that everything goes up one notch with the B6's. So if you're already happy with Race there's no need to take it up a notch. And if you like Comfort (even if you rarely use it) then you might lose that going to B6's, where Comfort might feel like OEM normal. You said you love Race as is, and might not want to stiffen up comfort/eco but then concluded you should go with the B6's :unsure:.

Edit: $150 is almost enough to get Eurosport Camber Inserts if you want/need some camber with no added NVH.
 
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RudyH

Go Kart Champion
Location
Kitchener, ON
I'm not sure I understand, or the sarcasm has gone clear over my head, haha. So you did a calibration with VCDS or OBDEleven; on a lift/stands all wheels hanging, fully extended, run DCC Basic Settings... and then you went on a drive where you caught some air? And now it feels better?
Sorry, so two weekends ago I was at my in laws for the F1 race in Montreal. On the way home Saturday night, there was a newer Ferrari and R8 in front of me on the boulevard that my in laws live off of. Changed lanes and my car dipped and flew in the air on a 'pot hole'. It was night so didn't have a good look at it. The other two cars that I was using to gauge if there was a pothole drove fine, so I knew something was off. On my way home I could feel the 'floaty feeling' I did before doing the calibration the first time over a year ago. It wasn't until this weekend it kicked in that I should do the calibration before buying the new dampers.

I am second guessing whether it worked or not. 4 tires in the air on jack stands, ran the access code and it never did anything, usually either gave a message of failure, or some type of indication, but nothing. I went into the logs and it said it ran. There was a slight change in the 'Adapting with deflected wheels' value so I am pretty sure it worked. I know the code is 20103. I might try it again on Thursday when I have time again to get the car up on stands again. I thought it felt better, at least on the road I was testing on but I am second guessing after running for lunch.

Yes, both the B4 and B6's aren't meant for lowering springs because of they have longer piston rods where the B8's have shorter.
I would go with the B8's for I guess the EMD's to be honest, but the Eibach Pro-kit is meant for the factor dampers (so B4 / B6 will be fine). I might lose some drop that's all.
https://eibach.com/us/1887/E10-85-041-01-22-VOLKSWAGEN-Golf-R-pro-kit

Right now I think I pretty much never use Comfort / ECO, only because I am not going to push the car, but less to do with dampening. So I guess the B6's wouldn't hurt...
 

Cuzoe

Autocross Champion
Location
Los Angeles
There are no B8 damptronics. Somewhere long ago someone in the forum mentioned that a Bilstein rep said B6 damptronics pair well with lowering springs, despite not being explicitly designed for them. I take that to mean they would pair better than the B4's which makes sense. In your case, B6's are probably the way to go.
 

RudyH

Go Kart Champion
Location
Kitchener, ON
There are no B8 damptronics. Somewhere long ago someone in the forum mentioned that a Bilstein rep said B6 damptronics pair well with lowering springs, despite not being explicitly designed for them. I take that to mean they would pair better than the B4's which makes sense. In your case, B6's are probably the way to go.
ya I read the same thing, I think B6's are going to be it. Will see once I get them and put them on and report back. I have brakes still sitting in my garage to be done next week...lol why all at once!!!
 

adgainai95

New member
Location
Melbourne
Car(s)
Golf R wagon
Can you get the B4's with the discount? My opinion only, running B4 Damptronics, but if you like the way the car rides now in all three modes then no reason to risk all of those modes moving "1 step up" with B6's, as is often reported. The B16 damptronics are a different thing kind of, only controlling rebound per some testing done here, as opposed to compression and rebound control. The B4's are the OEM replacements so should feel closest to the factory fresh feeling of the OEM setup. I care more about comfort (by a long shot) than I do about Sport/Race. So for me Comfort getting less comfortable is not something I would trade for Sport/Race getting Sport-ier/Race-ier.

Whatever you get, do the DCC calibration after install.


Is that with DCC?
dcc calibration for stock shocks only
 

Cuzoe

Autocross Champion
Location
Los Angeles
dcc calibration for stock shocks only
I'm not sure if you're asking or making a statement. But DCC calibration applies to whether you have stock or aftermarket shocks.

You aren't calibrating the shocks anyway. You're setting the calibration of the level sensors, which the DCC module uses as an input (along with other inputs) to control compression/rebound of the shocks... stock or aftermarket.
 

510danr

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Oakland, CA
Car(s)
2016 GTI Autobahn
On stock dampers. I have dcc and would like to keep it but will the B6 handle the 1.6" drop of my Neuspeed race springs without blowing through the initial part of its stroke? Would the B8/DCC cancellers be a better choice?
 

Cuzoe

Autocross Champion
Location
Los Angeles
That's a lot of drop... I'm assuming you did calibration after installing those springs, haha... If you have no issue with how DCC performs overall with your stock dampers and those springs the B6 damptronics should be better, relatively speaking.

With no springs you are giving up a lot of travel. But the DCC system doesn't control travel directly anyway. It controls compression and rebound. Your lack of available travel means that in Comfort there might not be enough compression control to stop you from bottoming out. But you're in that situation now already if you're already running those springs.

If you have to keep DCC in Sport/Race to prevent bottoming out then you may as well save the money and just go with the combo you mentioned B8s and cancellers. I ran B8s on my Golf, with h&R's which don't drop as much as the neuspeeds, but it was definitely a better ride than when I have DCC in Sport now.
 

510danr

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Oakland, CA
Car(s)
2016 GTI Autobahn
I did calibrate- I was stiff as hell before!
None of the modes really control it now it but sport helps the most.
I understand what DCC does. I'm not impressed, as its "active" qualities are hobbled in this platform compared to the higher-end VAG cars but its nice to have a few in-cabin choices to select. The B6's damping will be a huge upgrade from what I hear.
I'm not happy with my current mod. Ride quality is poor on our rough roads, that's why I seek a permanent solution. At times, the car's all over the place.
Looks like a 3/4" drop spring, Euro camber plates and B6 Damptronic is the best combo for sharp handling and good ride quality but maybe a return to stock springs is best? I do like the handling improvements lowering and a stiffer rear sway have given me. I hope raising the car doesn't kill this, hence the idea of going with the Euro cambers to retain some camber. I use 200 TW tires, rip backroads and do 2 trackdays a year.
How was the B8's compliance with HRs on rough roads?
 
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Cuzoe

Autocross Champion
Location
Los Angeles
I would think you're too low with those springs for DCC to be effective, which is why only Sport is semi-effective at controlling things. I'm running GTI springs with B4 Damptronics (on a Golf TDI, I retrofitted DCC) and I love it. Even in Comfort, which is soft, DCC still controls squat/dive. Then Normal feels slightly stiffer than my original suspension. I only use Sport on new pavement, but I'm old in spirit.

I thought the control with B8/H&R was great, but I did not enjoy it on rough roads, at all. Initially I just wanted the lowered look, then I started driving the canyons out here and really loved the handling. But the other 98% of my driving is on rough roads and I wanted comfort. So then I went to B6 with H&R's (couldn't find my stock springs), that was okay but mismatched. Then stayed with B6's with stock springs. Ride was great again but now back to too much roll in the curvy stuff. DCC retrofit, at stock height), was my final decision. Should have done it first and saved all that time/money messing around.

I have DCC in Comfort 98% of the time, in Normal if canyon carving on roads that aren't great, and in Sport if canyon carving on nice roads. I haven't found the ride height to have made any difference at all. For me being lower also meant higher spring rates so I felt that's where the improvement came from. At "truck" height but DCC in Sport I have the same reduced body roll/softness that I had when lowered 🤷‍♂️.

My other suspension and suspension related mods: Eurosport Camber inserts (awesome, I ran SuperPro and 034 plates in the past, too much added harshness/noise), Whiteline KTA252 aluminum LCA's, aluminum subframe, Neuspeed sway bars front/rear, Unibrace UBQ.
 
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