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Audi TT OEM Short Shifter and 42 Draft Design Bushes fitted to Golf MK7 GTD 6MT MQ350

s7wag

Ready to race!
Location
Bedfordshire, UK
Today I fitted the VW Audi OEM TT short shift gear lever (Audi:8J0 711 046E / 51E front to back) to my Golf MK7 GTD MQ350 gearbox (I believe this will also fit the MK7 GTI) together with the 42 Draft Design bushes for the plastic gear shift cable bracket (VW: 5Q0 711 789A), both cable ends, and the side to side bracket (VW: 5Q0 711 202B / 203B). End result is a reduced front to back throw by around 20% and solid feel gear change. No softness as all rubber bushes are replaced with alloy metal.

Some would have noted two parts number on each part above and in the pictures. I believe they represent 1.the kit part and 2.the main part. So in the case of 8J0 711 046E - this is a kit with cable end, metal clip, and the short shift-lever 8J0 711 051E.

In terms of the short-shift gear change lever (front to back).It reduces front to back movement by around 20%. VW OEM part is 5Q0 711 046K / * 051J this is directly replaced with Audi OEM part 8J0 711 046E. This costs around £39 from Audi dealer. You'll note Forge, CTS, and others cost several times this up to around £150-200 for Diesel Geeks all alloy Sigma 6 that does both front to back and side to side.

The 42 Draft Design bushes replace all the VW OEM rubber bushing mounts with solid alloy machined bushes. Part Numbers required are 42-444 and 42-455-015 (6SPD MDL YR 10-14).

Bushes are replaced on:
1. Plastic Gear Cable bracket (5Q0 711 789A) - three bushes. Kit part #42-444. You could change this part for a VW Audi metal equivalent from the TT too but I felt the metal bushes would be enough to remove any play and give a solid gear-change result;
2. Front to back cable end - replace square plastic/rubber bush insert with alloy metal bush from kit part# 42-455-015 (6SP MDL YR10-14):
3. Side to side cable end - replace round plastic/rubber bush insert with alloy metal bush from kit part# 42-455-015 (6SP MDL YR10-14). The OEM plastic sleeve needs the small end notch removing (file/cut with knife) , drilled and metal shaft (bolt) inserted;
4. Centre pivot bush on side to side gear lever change replaced with new end bush, drilled and metal shaft (bolt) inserted;

Here's the order in which I completed things, leaving both black cable ends in place:
1. Remove the air-box and put to one side. This now gives clear access;
2. Remove the metal retaining clip from the front to back cable end;
3. Remove the white plastic clip from the side to side lever (centre pivot);
4. Push down on the end retainer and lever off the side to side cable;
5. Slide off the side to side lever and place on bench (ready for mods);
6. Make sure the shift change lever is in neutral and with 13mm socket remove the retaining nut. Hold the lever and with a couple of up/down movements and it will release. Note there is an alignment notch at around 9 o'clock. You'll align the new one in the same way. Put to one side (not needed anymore);
7. You're now left with two cable with cable ends, gear shift lever removed, and side to side lever removed. All clear to see the black plastic cable shift bracket (VW/Audi call this an Abutment base bracket) This is part number 5Q0 711 789A. Now you could replace with a TT metal bracket version too 8J0 711 789). You'll have seen the APR alloy bracket for around £150 - crazy when you can buy a VW Audi OEM one for around £20!!;
8. Remove the side nut and two bottom bolts from the base bracket. 13mm socket. Be careful not to drop them. The bracket is now loose and free to move about with the cables still in situ. Take a flat headed screw driver and push through the metal bush in each and then the same for each rubber insert. You now have a bracket ready to take the new 42DD alloy bushes. First slide on the inner bush on the side-bolt, bracket on, outer bush and then the nut loosely on. Then do the same for the two base bolts, inner bush, outer bush on top of the plastic bracket and then insert the bolt. Be careful not to drop any items into the engine bay. Now tighten everything up making sure all the male/female bush parts align and bracket is properly fitted.
9. That's the gearbox cable shift bracket all refitted with new 42DD bushes;
10. Now for the cable ends. Again with a flat headed screwdriver push through the centre plastic in each and then gently prise away and push through the rubber bush in both too. You've now got two black cable ends without bushes, ready for re-fitments of the new 42DD bushes;
11. Now, back to the plastic side to side lever (5Q0 711 203B) and the modifications. Using the drill bit supplied in the 42DD bush kit drill through the middle of the centre pivot and through the top sleeve that holds the cable tie. Make sure you're careful and aligned on both. You now have two holes you can see through on the plastic lever.
12. Next on the top plastic sleeve you'll see a small retaining notch on the end - cut it off with a knife or file it flat so you now have a round/smooth sleeve. The alloy bush and washer for the cable end should now easily slide on an off - just check.
13. Next the centre plastic pivot - you'll see it's shaped at the end with a small hole that the white retaining clip fitted. You need to cut off the end(with the hole) far enough down until you get to the straight shaft (see pics.). Remove with a hack saw. Clean it up. Now try it back in the car in the metal pivot sleeve it fits into with the bolt and bush from the 42DD set. There should be a small amount of play, if too much file the plastic sleeve a bit more and re-try. When it fits the car you should be able to fit the bolt and tighten the retaining nut able be able to still rotate the lever smoothly. Don't over tighten.
14. Your side to side level is now ready to re-fit with new 42DD bushes / bolts;
15. Now re-fit your new TT short-shift gear change lever (8J0 711 051E), aligning the notch on the spigot. Re-fit the nut and tighten. Don't over tighten it!
16. Slide back in the plastic side to side lever on the centre pivot. Put in the new sleeve and push the bolt through. Put on the washer and nut and tighten making sure it's not over-tight and the there is slack for pivot to rotate on the sleeve.
17. Fit the side-to side cable end back on the bush pivot. Push the bolt through from the outside, slide the think brass ring on, then the inner alloy bush (writing on the outside on both), black 'round' cable end, outer alloy bush, thin brass washer, thin steel washer, and end locking nut. Tighten everything up with Allen key and spanner. Don't over tighten and make sure it rotates with ease.
18. Lastly re-fit black cable 'rectangle' end to the new front to back lever with the 42DD bushes - writing on the outside, re-fit the metal retaining clip;
19. That should be the whole gear change assembly back in place. Go into the car and make sure you can still change gear up/down, side to side and also select reverse gear. If you can't you've moved the black cable-ends and didn't do as you were told!!! You will need to re-align them until you can select properly.
20. Re-fit the air-box and front duct back in the car (the smart-ones amongst you will also note in the picture that at the same time I also cut out the air-intake duct just in front of the air-box too for free air-flow direct into the air-box. Mines fitted with a Piper-cross filter too)
21. Go have a test drive with a smug smile knowing you've just fitted this yourself and the end-result is great! What a difference...

There are various YouTube videos that support this and may help if you need further visuals.

I wasn't sure of the result as it's a fairly new car and bushes won't have worn BUT I can now say that they have made a huge difference from stock feel. A solid more positive gear change and together with the short-shift I'm pleased I've done it. My wife's TT Roadster TDI has the same short-shift on standard OEM bushes - huge difference which has surprised me. Well worth it I think
 

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Last edited:

Scottmk7

Ready to race!
Nice write up, I just did the OEM short shifter and was thinking of adding the 42dd bushings.

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
 

s7wag

Ready to race!
Location
Bedfordshire, UK
I wasn't sure of the result as it's a fairly new car and bushes won't have worn BUT I can now say that they have made a huge difference from stock feel. A solid more positive gear change and together with the short-shift I'm pleased I've done it. My wife's TT Roadster TDI has the same short-shift on standard OEM bushes - huge difference which has surprised me. Well worth it I think
 

golfdave

Autocross Champion
Location
Scotland (U.K.)
Car(s)
Mk7 Golf GT Estate
Just wondering if you know if & what items would fit the MQ250 6 speed gearbox. As there seems to be a few of us having selection issues with the bloody things!!!

Worst VAG box I've had in 20yrs!! Needs "play" taking out as can't get proper alignment.
 

golfdave

Autocross Champion
Location
Scotland (U.K.)
Car(s)
Mk7 Golf GT Estate
Just been looking, bracket bushes, & linkage bushes, nothing else as completely different..............

I need to get hold of AwesomeGTI..........
 

golfdave

Autocross Champion
Location
Scotland (U.K.)
Car(s)
Mk7 Golf GT Estate
sorry for delay, all different for the MQ250....

Have had a look at mine & ETKA, & word with Awesome & the bracket bushes are the same & so is the "eye" bushes for the cable ends...........have ordered.................:D...............cable bracket, abutment bracket defo no go way too different to bodge....

Also thinking of swapping my gearknob for a GTD golfball one.

If you put it in say 3rd gear how high is it overall from the silver base trim?........I also think that the lack of "grip is also forcing me into a different style as my previous grips have had a defined "top".

I might chop the stem down also.........


What really annoys me is my previous car (MK1 Fabia) had metal everything & ball/socket eyes...........no play at all................even with the superpo dogbone mount, floor the engine & it moves, so did the gearstick...............:D

So for these cars now is say no to NVH............& make a tight gearbox ruined by a sloppy linkage....very clever!
 

golfdave

Autocross Champion
Location
Scotland (U.K.)
Car(s)
Mk7 Golf GT Estate
I've linked to your thread in the beginning of my thread to direct people here for the MQ350 gearbox.

I'm still sorting the final pics out for mine, but I am relived to have fully sorted it out including the manufacturing flaw that VW put into the side to side linkage!!!...............anyway nice & solid all metal & GTD gear knob also, just done a nice 760 mile trip & all ok!!! How it should have been from the factory!!
 

golfdave

Autocross Champion
Location
Scotland (U.K.)
Car(s)
Mk7 Golf GT Estate

Hotfart

Ready to race!
Location
LFK Kansas
Just a heads-up for anyone getting the 42DD bushings - make sure you check the nylon lock nuts beforehand and verify they are the correct size. I was in the project past the point of no return, and realized they sent me the wrong nuts. It was late on a Sunday night, and hardware stores were closed. I thought to myself they look like skateboard hardware, and sure enough, cannibalized my old board and the hardware fit perfectly. Very lucky.

Otherwise I really like the setup. Not talking bad about 42DD, as stuff happens. Just a heads-up to check first so you don't get stuck.
 

B3mt1

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Croatia
Car(s)
Mk7 2.0TDI Hatch '16
Hi, rising the old thred from the dead but isn't the 8J0 711 046E for MQ250 gearbox?
Per etka as far I can see for MQ350 part number is 5Q0 711 046 N?
Screenshot_20210315_000532.jpg
 

B3mt1

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Croatia
Car(s)
Mk7 2.0TDI Hatch '16
Ok, I have found out the differences between those two parts.
  • 8J0 711 046 E = MQ 350 Audi TT mk2 part, shortening stated as above
  • 5Q0 711 046 N = MQ 350 Audi TT mk3 part, less shortening than part from mk2 and from german forums some people even say that it is hardly noticeable
In conclusion, go with mk2 part 8J0 711 046 E
 
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