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Audi TT (8S) Control Arms

odessa.filez

Autocross Newbie
Location
Roswell, GA
Car(s)
2016 GSW 1.8tsi auto
Any tips / advice
I wanted to quickly chime in here. Currently running the following setup:
- TTS LCA
- Mavotech Lower Ball Joints
- KW V3
- Stock Top Mount with Eurosport Street Camber Insert


After alignment, I was able to pull the following specs:
View attachment 259059

The car handles phenomenal. Tire wear at the track is superb with a few caveats:
- Return to Centre is quite strong (likely due to Caster)
- With my Apex 17x9 +43, the tire has chewed up where the bumper / fender meets.
- I’d want to drop down to around -2.8 to -3 degrees of camber front, with a bit of correction on the caster. Ideally want the wheel more tucked in so I can repurchase similar spec fenders without having to to wider as 245 section is more than adequate and the option for this is to run less camber from the bottom and more from the top. Would this be a knuckle + camber plate solution?

Any tips / advice?
View attachment 259060View attachment 259061View attachment 259062View attachment 259063View attachment 259064
I think you'll need more neg camber at the top mount to avoid that rub. Or higher offset wheels.

I run 245/40r15 Falken rt660 on 15x8 et40. With arms fully extended and camber plates set to zero, I would likely rub if my tire diameter and ride height didn't give me relief. With camber plates fully adjusted. my tires look tucked enough where a higher diameter would likely work....but my camber is more than -4.5.
 

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Go Kart Newbie
Location
Downunder
I wanted to quickly chime in here. Currently running the following setup:
- TTS LCA
- Mavotech Lower Ball Joints
- KW V3
- Stock Top Mount with Eurosport Street Camber Insert


After alignment, I was able to pull the following specs:
View attachment 259059

The car handles phenomenal. Tire wear at the track is superb with a few caveats:
- Return to Centre is quite strong (likely due to Caster)
- With my Apex 17x9 +43, the tire has chewed up where the bumper / fender meets.
- I’d want to drop down to around -2.8 to -3 degrees of camber front, with a bit of correction on the caster. Ideally want the wheel more tucked in so I can repurchase similar spec fenders without having to to wider as 245 section is more than adequate and the option for this is to run less camber from the bottom and more from the top. Would this be a knuckle + camber plate solution?

Any tips / advice?
View attachment 259060View attachment 259061View attachment 259062View attachment 259063View attachment 259064
Run a 255/35 instead. Your caster is not aggressive and really shouldn't rub that much. But is hard to avoid if you want to run an aggressive wheel setup. I just let mine wear down then bent the metal under it so I don't damage tyres. Running a similar wheel size and offset with 265/35 and 8.5deg caster.
 

scrllock

Autocross Champion
Location
MI
Run a 255/35 instead. Your caster is not aggressive and really shouldn't rub that much. But is hard to avoid if you want to run an aggressive wheel setup. I just let mine wear down then bent the metal under it so I don't damage tyres. Running a similar wheel size and offset with 265/35 and 8.5deg caster.
he's on 17s
 

cameleon72

New member
Location
Au
Car(s)
tiguan
Hello to all!
If anyone can pls help answering, if Audi subframe from S3 (TT ) 5Q0199369G and Audi alloy TT Lower Control arms will fit on VW Tiguan 2017 year ( MQB ) Higline 162kw tsi with dsg DQ500 ?
I dont mind to retain same Caster as original tiguan factory setup, or if only very small change . The Goal is just to get bit stiffer felling going alloy setup and ofcourse weight reduction :)
Many Thx

PS . here some dimesion photos from front comparing wheel track betwen Tiguan , Audi TT and MK7 , looks like tiguan has widest wheel front track , so should be no problem if TT LCA and TT Ball joints give wider track than Golf 7 ?
 

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yakev724

Go Kart Champion
Location
NYC
Car(s)
2015 S3
Hello to all!
If anyone can pls help answering, if Audi subframe from S3 (TT ) 5Q0199369G and Audi alloy TT Lower Control arms will fit on VW Tiguan 2017 year ( MQB ) Higline 162kw tsi with dsg DQ500 ?
I dont mind to retain same Caster as original tiguan factory setup, or if only very small change . The Goal is just to get bit stiffer felling going alloy setup and ofcourse weight reduction :)
Many Thx

PS . here some dimesion photos from front comparing wheel track betwen Tiguan , Audi TT and MK7 , looks like tiguan has widest wheel front track , so should be no problem if TT LCA and TT Ball joints give wider track than Golf 7 ?

If you want stiffer feeling, skip the LCAs. look at new shocks/springs or coilovers if you can find a set for your car, then F+R sways, then subframe deadset kit in that order.

LCAs do v little in terms of suspension feel or weight savings. Benefit is change in geometry while maintaining factory NVH, and for the cost ^^ will get you much more of what you're looking for.
 

odessa.filez

Autocross Newbie
Location
Roswell, GA
Car(s)
2016 GSW 1.8tsi auto
Hello to all!
If anyone can pls help answering, if Audi subframe from S3 (TT ) 5Q0199369G and Audi alloy TT Lower Control arms will fit on VW Tiguan 2017 year ( MQB ) Higline 162kw tsi with dsg DQ500 ?
I dont mind to retain same Caster as original tiguan factory setup, or if only very small change . The Goal is just to get bit stiffer felling going alloy setup and ofcourse weight reduction :)
Many Thx

PS . here some dimesion photos from front comparing wheel track betwen Tiguan , Audi TT and MK7 , looks like tiguan has widest wheel front track , so should be no problem if TT LCA and TT Ball joints give wider track than Golf 7 ?
On the subframe, if it were me, I would compare part numbers and pictures to see if your steel subframe is compatible with other cars that have retrofitted the alum subframe.

Alum Subframe weight savings is small, like 6 to 7 lbs, and at a low point in the car, so center of gravity benefit is not there. There may be some benefit in stiffness, but it is modest, or simply my imagination
 

scrllock

Autocross Champion
Location
MI
On the subframe, if it were me, I would compare part numbers and pictures to see if your steel subframe is compatible with other cars that have retrofitted the alum subframe.

Alum Subframe weight savings is small, like 6 to 7 lbs, and at a low point in the car, so center of gravity benefit is not there. There may be some benefit in stiffness, but it is modest, or simply my imagination
the subframe does virtually nothing for appreciable stiffness, but it won't rust like the steel one. I think the steel one is a bit easier to use as a jack point tho.
 

odessa.filez

Autocross Newbie
Location
Roswell, GA
Car(s)
2016 GSW 1.8tsi auto
the subframe does virtually nothing for appreciable stiffness, but it won't rust like the steel one. I think the steel one is a bit easier to use as a jack point tho.
Well I wonder why VAG bothered to make it in the first place and put it higher performance cars when they could just improve the rustproofing issue.

Not saying it's a night and day difference though or even recommending.
 

scrllock

Autocross Champion
Location
MI
Well I wonder why VAG bothered to make it in the first place and put it higher performance cars when they could just improve the rustproofing issue.

Not saying it's a night and day difference though or even recommending.
aluminum is more expensive. more of a margin to work with on an audi than a GTI. and more of a need to cut trim pounds. both of those reasons would apply to more expensive, heavier mk8s, and now they come with aluminum.
 

yakev724

Go Kart Champion
Location
NYC
Car(s)
2015 S3
aluminum is more expensive. more of a margin to work with on an audi than a GTI. and more of a need to cut trim pounds. both of those reasons would apply to more expensive, heavier mk8s, and now they come with aluminum.

Makes sense. Wish I could get rid of my 100lb pano sunroof from the highest point of my car.
 

yakev724

Go Kart Champion
Location
NYC
Car(s)
2015 S3
I just replaced my tie rods and rebuilt my front axles and went to get an alignment. This is the result. Feedback was: rear toe can't be brought in further without adjustable toe links, and a bit stumped on front camber delta. Hardware on both sides was installed at the same time, and shifting the wheel along the ball joint adjustment range seemed to have little impact on camber. Prior to alignment I had both sides at the max outermost setting, and noticed on the left side the 'outermost' position seemed to be a bit less far out than on the right side, as i could still see some ball-joint cross hatch visible in front of the front-most (of the 3) studs - this wasn't true for the right side, so I'm wondering if somehow the L/R ball joint adjustment geometry's off.

I also noticed my front right side is 0.25" taller than my front left, which I'll need to correct (though presumably this will make the camber difference even greater). Any ideas? TIA

IMG_3631.jpeg
 
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El_bigote_AJ

Autocross Champion
Location
Las Vegas
Car(s)
2019 GTI bunny
I just replaced my tie rods and rebuilt my front axles and went to get an alignment. This is the result. Feedback was: rear toe can't be brought in further without adjustable toe links, and a bit stumped on front camber delta. Hardware on both sides was installed at the same time, and shifting the wheel along the ball joint adjustment range seemed to have little impact on camber. Prior to alignment I had both sides at the max outermost setting, and noticed on the left side the 'outermost' position seemed to be a bit less far out than on the right side, as i could still see some ball-joint cross hatch visible in front of the front-most (of the 3) studs - this wasn't true for the right side, so I'm wondering if somehow the L/R ball joint adjustment geometry's off.

I also noticed my front right side is 0.25" taller than my front left, which I'll need to correct (though presumably this will make the camber difference even greater). Any ideas? TIA

View attachment 270973
Do you have camber mounts up front?
 

odessa.filez

Autocross Newbie
Location
Roswell, GA
Car(s)
2016 GSW 1.8tsi auto
You had a great oval track setup there 😁

Hope you get it sorted out
 

yakev724

Go Kart Champion
Location
NYC
Car(s)
2015 S3
As far as the clearance issue, I solved that with a carbide burr on a die grinder (not shown) I doubt the removal of a little material will affect the structural integrity.

Noticed the same issue where the ball joint retaining plate comes into contact with the spindle. You can see over time it's worked a small notch into the spindle. This is more pronounced with the LCAs in the shortest configuration. I'll be grinding some of the spindle away near the contact point as I'd like to run them at/near the shortest setting.

What's interesting is the LCA -> ball joint mounting points (the 2 protrustions) have different shapes. The frontmost one (closer of the two in photo) is narrower, giving more clearance to the spindle, while the rear one is not, which is where the contact occurs. If I were to do this over I'd consider mirroring the pattern of the front one in which case grinding material off the spindle might not be required.

IMG_3643.jpeg

IMG_3644.jpeg

IMG_3642.jpeg
 
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