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Audi B9 A4 4 piston calipers on mk7 gti non pp

uberdot

Autocross Champion
Location
Ten Forward
Car(s)
Silver 2017 6MT
Did you have issues swapping the crossovers and bleeders? It seems like the spacing between holes is slightly different, I would have to bend the crossovers in by ~5mm either side to get them to fit where the bleeders were.
You have to very slowly bend them. Going cheap means going slow and more labor. Be careful with the rotors. Not all 320x30mm have the same offset. Mine shove the rear pads into the rotor when properly tightened, before the bolt comes even close to the rotor.

I'm going to go to the salvage yard to find 2013 Audi A4 rotors to try it over again. The ones I got were apparently from later models but still 5x112 320x30. They fit perfectly when uninstalled but when bolted the offset is all wrong.
 

toothofwar

Autocross Champion
Location
KY
Car(s)
2018 Golf R
Did you have issues swapping the crossovers and bleeders? It seems like the spacing between holes is slightly different, I would have to bend the crossovers in by ~5mm either side to get them to fit where the bleeders were.
Yes. I'll add that to the op. I had to massage the crossover tube just a hair to get it to align correctly.
 

uberdot

Autocross Champion
Location
Ten Forward
Car(s)
Silver 2017 6MT
Also be specific with Chris@Technafit that you need a line with a 90 degree angle. The long one will bump into your strut assembly.
 

uberdot

Autocross Champion
Location
Ten Forward
Car(s)
Silver 2017 6MT
And follow the OP’s advice on the 2013 rotors!!!
 

toothofwar

Autocross Champion
Location
KY
Car(s)
2018 Golf R
Are you using the power bleader or the old school pumping the pedal method? I had my son pump them while I blead them.started on the passenger side with the outside one, then the inside, then drivers outside, then the drivers inside last. Did this process 3 times and now have oem feel.
 

toothofwar

Autocross Champion
Location
KY
Car(s)
2018 Golf R

DieselLove

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Wilmington, NC
Car(s)
2017 Alltrack
Finished up this same project today and thought it might be helpful to share some of my experience so I can ease some future frustration for the next person. First let me thank the OP (toothofwar) for this writeup, when I googled the swap you're pretty much of the only resource available. I'll list out the following issues/notes and how I resolved them.



1. For whatever reason, using the same part numbers as the OP and all parts listed, I had contact between the caliper mounting tab and the back of the rotor, particularly under stress (cornering). I has to mill 0.060" off the inside of the caliper mount tab. Clearance was gained at 0.040" but to be safe we removed another 0.020". I probably could have spaced the rotor out however I had no access to 2-3mm spacers but we had access to a mill ;). Milling is probably a better long term solution anyhow. If you mill, do so on the inside of the caliper mount tab, not the outside as you may affect the integrity of the threaded nutsert's shoulder which could compromise the entire system.





2. Check your heat shields, even though my brakes had never been tampered with, passenger side heat shield was contacting the rotor. Removed rotor, massaged a bit with a hammer.

3. I requested 26" brake lines (in case I return my Alltrack to stock suspension) but Technifit sent me a pre-labeled "Audi A3 Kit" with 24" lines, I was disappointed but installed them anyway. Then during the install, both rubber bushings slipped out of the piece that attaches them to the knuckle. In order to re-fit them, I had to trim a shoulder of the bushing with a razor knife and spent probably a collective hour of massaging to get them even close to how they originally fit then super glued the bushing into the knuckle attachment piece. In hindsight, if you need to slide/adjust the knuckle-attachment bushing, do so gently and maybe use a lubricant of some sort.



4. Test fit factory Alltrack 17x7 wheels, plenty of barrel clearance but will require a spacer to fit. 8mm wasn't enough clearance but 15mm gives plenty of room. Wonder if 10-12mm would work (I didn't have these sizes). 18x8 Audi Sewer Caps are a similar story, 8mm made contact, currently running 15mm but will order up a smaller size at some point.

 

DieselLove

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Wilmington, NC
Car(s)
2017 Alltrack
I do have a question for the OP and those of you who've completed this swap. Do you think this will be an issue as the pads wear down? The heat shield being in front of the pad dampener. (Also wtf do pad dampeners even do?!)



 

uberdot

Autocross Champion
Location
Ten Forward
Car(s)
Silver 2017 6MT
I was having grinding on the driver side during cornering as well. It’s mostly all gone but probably at the cost of some rotor material. When I swap rotors for something sexier I will definitely be doing this mill trick, or just sanding it down carefully.
Here’s fitment on aftermarket 18” wheels. Required an 8mm H&R spacer for good clearance. Notice the lip that got edged off from inside the caliper. I’ll try the recommeded EBC rotor asap.
0579B225-C5C1-47A9-84FF-7B3E0904F587.jpeg
 
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uberdot

Autocross Champion
Location
Ten Forward
Car(s)
Silver 2017 6MT
Is your wheel bent at about 8:30?
Yep! There’s a fresh OZ in a box when new tire time comes. I bought 5 for the price of 4 when I upgraded.
 

DieselLove

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Wilmington, NC
Car(s)
2017 Alltrack
Not so stellar news. Just finished weighing both setups:
OEM: 312mm rotors, calipers, carriers, pads, hardware and lines = 32.5 lbs
B9 A4 Setup: 320mm rotors, calipers, and pads = 34.8 lbs

Granted I didn't have the lines when I weighed the new setup so accounting for those maybe add another pound.
I'm not disappointed in my significantly improved stopping power even if its nearly the same unsprung weight as before.
 
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