So I ended up grabbing facelift rear emblem PN 3G0827469JBDPJ, which has a "highline" camera (
not areaview camera). I found the emblem on eBay for $215. Then swapped in the areaview camera. I have not (recently at least) been able to find any areaview emblems (new or old VW logo) for under about $400.
The nipple on this part faces "in" instead of down. You can flip it around. I put a hairdryer on it for about 60 seconds then popped it off. I'm not actually sure you need to heat it up at all. But then you flip the drain around and supeglue/epoxy or whatever it back on. I used some gel type superglue where it was originally attached. Then a thin bead of RTV around the perimeter (which is overkill, it didn't have that before)...
Best part about this emblem is that it was designed to accept either camera, highline or areview. Take the rear off and the pull the whole "camera" mechanism. The motor mechanism sort of wiggles out of the way and will stay attached to the rear emblem. The entire camera mechanism is guided in, but not snapped in. That will make sense when you're looking at it. I removed the arms of the camera mechanism so I could get better pictures but you don't have to remove them to replace the cemara.
Remove the two screws holding the old, higline, camera in place (circled in red). Then pop in your areaview camera. Re-use the two screws. One goes in the same spot and the other uses an existing hole in the emblem assembly (circled in green) but it all lines right up. Second picture just to show the relative positions of both cameras when installed. You can see there isn't the clearance issue that
@CarloP had to deal with
modifying a Golf highline emblem. This camera swap required no modification (dremel-ing/trimming/snipping/grinding) of anything, just disassembly. These later emblems accept either camera.
Assembly is the reverse of dis-assembly. When you're getting the motor mechanism aligned to push it all in make sure the pin is seated at the bottom of the guide track (again this will be obvious once you're in there). If you don't do this you will still be able to put it all together but the camera "door" won't be held closed tightly. If there's play in the door next to my thumb after re-assembly then the motor/gear mechanism is off by a tooth or two. You should not be able to open that door more than a millimeter or two, and it's resting position will be closed.