APR Tuned Golf 1.8TSI not building boost

[Twomstone]

Hi all, long time lurker, first time poster.

I've looked at other threads/forums and most had wastegate problems where it would blow off boost prematurely, or a mostly separate issue. If maybe I missed a thread relating to this I apologize, Admin please direct me to that.

Recently after fueling, my car (2016 APR stage 1 91oct tuned Golf 1.8TSI 5SP) threw a CEL and EPC light. I don't have a code reader to check what specific codes it is. It wouldn't build boost at all, so I'm essentially driving naturally aspirated. It didn't seem like any plumbing came loose, and no wastegate actuator rattle or anything like that.

I'm planning on bringing my car into the dealership as I'm still under the powertrain warranty (2016 Golf: 5yr/100k, I'm at 92k km) and not very tech savvy. Now my concern is with my tune. Obviously, this is a dice we roll when we tune under warranty. If I have to pay for repairs so be it, but my question is this:

1) Would my APR tune be erased if they have to dig into the ECU to diagnose the EPC or replace the turbo?

2) Should I tell them I have a tune to prevent it being erased?

If I have to replace the turbo (out of pocket with voided warranty) I would probably go IS20 anyways, so that's not as big a deal. I just don't want to have to buy a new turbo and lose my ~$900CAD tune as well.

any help of clarification is much appreciated!

-Connor

 

[maxwell]

1) likely not a concern, plus you can just go back to your tuning shop and reflash for free (or a nominal fee.) You own the tune, and it is tied to your vin. People flash to stock for service and flash back all the time. Just reach out to your tuning shop to confirm. Very normal, and don't worry about a big spend here. $900 CAD though, dang!

2) helll to the nah nahhh NO! Don't mention it. Plenty of anecdotal evidence that flashed people have had turbos covered under warranty. Worth a try.

Sorry to hear about the turbo... possibly from a 'badge batch.' Post your turbo revision when you (they) get the turbo off the car, if you can.

 

[ZuMBLe]

It's highly likely your wastegate actuator is broken. It's unlikely the dealer will diagnose the problem without plugging in their scan tool because the wastegate is electronic. When that happens, the system will likely detect your APR tune and flag your car with a TD1. They likely will not reflash your ECU (but the could). Your flash license is registered to your VIN. APR will not charge you to put the tune back on, but the dealer may charge you a fee for reflashing.

My advice is to get some help from someone with a scan tool so you can see what the problem actually is.

 

[maxwell]

It's highly likely your wastegate actuator is broken. It's likely the dealer will diagnose the problem without plugging in their scan tool because the wastegate is electronic. When that happens, the system will likely detect your APR tune and flag your car with a TD1. They likely will not reflash your ECU (but the could). Your flash license is registered to your VIN. APR will not charge you to put the tune back on, but the dealer may charge you a fee for reflashing.

My advice is to get some help from someone with a scan tool so you can see what the problem actually is.

Good advice here too.

 

[Twomstone]

Thanks for the quick replies guys.

Very relieving to know the tune is tied to my VIN! Only problem with getting it reflashed to stock before going into the dealer is that I'm in northwestern Ontario and the tuning shop (closest APR place to me) is in Toronto...14 hour drive away. I'll be heading out there this summer so I can get it reflashed (if needed) then, as it's not a big deal not having it in the snow right now. I was looking at getting a code reader but sounds like if I buy one I might as well get the best which consensus says is the ross-tech VCDS, but with shipping I'd be looking at ~250-350 depending what type I get.

Looks like I'll cancel my appointment for now and see if there's someone nearby who I can bribe to borrow their scan tool. Judging from other threads it seems like if it's a wastegate actuator issue you can't fix just that and it's a whole turbo fix, correct?

I'll update once I know. I've been eyeing the IS20 install threads for a while so I may give that a shot if it is the WGA.

 

[ZuMBLe]

Thanks for the quick replies guys.

Very relieving to know the tune is tied to my VIN! Only problem with getting it reflashed to stock before going into the dealer is that I'm in northwestern Ontario and the tuning shop (closest APR place to me) is in Toronto...14 hour drive away. I'll be heading out there this summer so I can get it reflashed (if needed) then, as it's not a big deal not having it in the snow right now. I was looking at getting a code reader but sounds like if I buy one I might as well get the best which consensus says is the ross-tech VCDS, but with shipping I'd be looking at ~250-350 depending what type I get.

Looks like I'll cancel my appointment for now and see if there's someone nearby who I can bribe to borrow their scan tool. Judging from other threads it seems like if it's a wastegate actuator issue you can't fix just that and it's a whole turbo fix, correct?

I'll update once I know. I've been eyeing the IS20 install threads for a while so I may give that a shot if it is the WGA.

The actuator can be replaced. You can buy a new actuator from Turbo Parts Canada. I don't think a dealer will do this for you though. To get to the actuator to replace, you're half way to a turbo swap. You can 100% run your APR flash with a IS20 turbo. It may be best to just slap a IS20 in and call it a day. You don't even immediately need a tune.

 

[GTI Jake]

APR has a specific 1.8Tsi Is20 file, you’d want to run that.

Go to a local auto parts store and scan the codes, or buy Obd11 which is like $60-100USD

I highly doubt the car is actually broken, you probably got a bad batch of gas and the car hit limp mode. Throttle back and assess the situation a little better before dropping big money at the dealership or on a turbo swap you’re not quite ready for yet (save that 14 hour drive for summer like you said)

 

[ZuMBLe]

APR does have a IS20 specific file, but he should be fine running the IS20 on the APR Stage 1 file. I ran it that way for a few months.

 

[MeltedSolid]

OBDEleven is just as good as VCDS for basically anything ameture level, and MUCH cheaper. I recommend it in general as it can do a lot more than just read codes.

 

[jimlloyd40]

VCDS can do a lot more than read codes but a cheap alternative in the meantime is a OBD2 dongle from Amazon and an app for your smartphone like Torque. $20.

 

[Twomstone]

Thanks for the tips, I bought an OBDEleven. I've thought about doing some minor code stuff (reverse mirror dip, one-touch blinkers 3-5sec etc.) for a while so figured now is as good a time as any. Downside of small town living is not many options for pickup, and looking at reviews of the Canadian Tire readers I think I'll just skip the hassle.

Like a lot of people lately I've been working from home so have time to wait a few days for shipping. Now hopefully no hiccups in delivery...

 

[ZuMBLe]

Thanks for the tips, I bought an OBDEleven. I've thought about doing some minor code stuff (reverse mirror dip, one-touch blinkers 3-5sec etc.) for a while so figured now is as good a time as any. Downside of small town living is not many options for pickup, and looking at reviews of the Canadian Tire readers I think I'll just skip the hassle.

Like a lot of people lately I've been working from home so have time to wait a few days for shipping. Now hopefully no hiccups in delivery...

The 5 blink one touch is how it should have come from the factory! Let us know how it turns out.

 

[MeltedSolid]

My favorite is being able to still roll up my windows after I take the key out and open the door.

 

[ZuMBLe]

Turning on the refuel quantity amount is sweet also.

 

[maxwell]

1 touch (4 door) unlock is my favorite. That and gauge sweep at startup. (1.8t golfs dont sweep at start from the factory)