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APR Stage 2 in MA

Stija

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Az
Car(s)
BMW Saab Subaru VW
CTS catted down pipe.

other than MA having a legal tint level that is almost pointless, modifying cars here isn't overly restrictive that I'm aware of. been modifying cars for years with no big issues. only when it comes time for inspections, which is inconvenient but you can work around it swapping parts, etc.
Mr Literal here.

Why not just make a stg 2 tune for inspection w rear o2 on? Flash it and drive until ready? Or is it impossible cuz it will/must throw a code? What seems to be the issue w cobb specifically?

My wrx has rear o2 turned off and all monitors are ready except egr (which is unplugged and tuned for). I have a map w egr on (after i plug) for obd readiness emissions in my state when time comes, which is why it makes me think why you couldnt do the same for vw in regards to o2.
 

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shovelhd

Autocross Champion
Location
Western MA
It's less about the sensor being on or off, and more about getting the sensor to read correctly. I'm certainly not interested in swapping downpipes every year just to pass. Using mounts and spacers are hit or miss. I think this is what the OP is asking for. A guaranteed solution that will pass MA emissions without swapping parts every year. I have yet to find one that more than one person has verified that it consistently works.
 

qomn

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Boston
Yeah that's exactly what I'm looking for. So I guess a spacer may be the solution, maybe the CTS DP with the anti CEL extras along with a spacer may give a good chance of passing? And of course that's something that can be checked before having inspection done.
 

slogti

Ready to race!
Location
APRFTW
Car(s)
APR Stage 1+ GTI
Just went for my inspection yesterday and passed. Best bet is to get an accessport so you can flash back to stock or even get an "emissions tune" which will keep your same stage 1/2/3 file.... ect but allow all the monitors to run and see if all your monitors are "ready", keep in mind temperature (from experience it should be between 40-90F) does affect wither some of the monitors run their tests to become ready so if you are lucky and have a summer month you are fine. Downpipe concerns really shouldn't be necessary as long as you put your stock cat back on and its relatively not loud. Just make sure when you go you have an 02 spacer so you eliminate the CEL and all your monitors are set to ready.
 

qomn

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Boston
Just went for my inspection yesterday and passed. Best bet is to get an accessport so you can flash back to stock or even get an "emissions tune" which will keep your same stage 1/2/3 file.... ect but allow all the monitors to run and see if all your monitors are "ready", keep in mind temperature (from experience it should be between 40-90F) does affect wither some of the monitors run their tests to become ready so if you are lucky and have a summer month you are fine. Downpipe concerns really shouldn't be necessary as long as you put your stock cat back on and its relatively not loud. Just make sure when you go you have an 02 spacer so you eliminate the CEL and all your monitors are set to ready.
What do you mean put stock cat back on? Can you do that without swapping the DP??
 

slogti

Ready to race!
Location
APRFTW
Car(s)
APR Stage 1+ GTI
What do you mean put stock cat back on? Can you do that without swapping the DP??
Yes putting the stock catback on would be the same as leaving factory exhaust and just having a downpipe.
 

qomn

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Boston
Okay guys, after researching based on your advice I've begun to lean towards a tune that I can flash myself. I've heard good things about unitronic in terms of power, but this leads me to a couple new questions.

1. The cost of a unitronic stage 2 tune looks to be $750, this is on top of the cost of a downpipe which is around $800. This adds up to about the same as APR stage 2 if I'm understanding correctly - but there will be the additional cost of a tuning... mechanism? Which leads me to 2.

2. What do I need in order to be able to flash tunes myself? Unitronic sells a uniconnect module for a pretty good price and it seems like I can flash with a laptop using that. People also suggested the Cobb module, but that is much more expensive and seems like it does the same thing, but maybe I'm wrong about that (like maybe Cobb is universal but uniconnect only works with unitronic).

3. I've been told multiple times by different people now here and at APR/Volkswagen dealers that if I flash to stock/stage 1 and drive ~150 miles I will pass inspection as long as there's no CEL. I just want to confirm that this is the case, basically all I need to worry about is suppressing the CEL on stock ECU software (which will be done with CTS downpipe + O2 spacer?).
 

Hoon

Autocross Champion
Location
Rhode Island
Okay guys, after researching based on your advice I've begun to lean towards a tune that I can flash myself. I've heard good things about unitronic in terms of power, but this leads me to a couple new questions.

1. The cost of a unitronic stage 2 tune looks to be $750, this is on top of the cost of a downpipe which is around $800. This adds up to about the same as APR stage 2 if I'm understanding correctly - but there will be the additional cost of a tuning... mechanism? Which leads me to 2.

2. What do I need in order to be able to flash tunes myself? Unitronic sells a uniconnect module for a pretty good price and it seems like I can flash with a laptop using that. People also suggested the Cobb module, but that is much more expensive and seems like it does the same thing, but maybe I'm wrong about that (like maybe Cobb is universal but uniconnect only works with unitronic).

3. I've been told multiple times by different people now here and at APR/Volkswagen dealers that if I flash to stock/stage 1 and drive ~150 miles I will pass inspection as long as there's no CEL. I just want to confirm that this is the case, basically all I need to worry about is suppressing the CEL on stock ECU software (which will be done with CTS downpipe + O2 spacer?).

Put a Depo catted DP on the car and go with an EQT OTS map and a Cobb Acessport.

Spend the savings on a Magic/Majesty branded eBay direct fit intercooler.

The only disadvantage is like all cheap DPs the stainless isn't real stainless and it will rust in our climate. If you can live with rust no one will see on a part that will last the life of the car, you can save $500.

I can list the advantages of this but it will take me all day. Thank me later.
 

jimlloyd40

Autocross Champion
Location
Phoenix
Car(s)
2018 SE DSG
What do you mean put stock cat back on? Can you do that without swapping the DP??

No unless someone made a section you can unblot to bolt it back in which I haven't heard about anyone doing.
 

qomn

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Boston
Put a Depo catted DP on the car and go with an EQT OTS map and a Cobb Acessport.

Spend the savings on a Magic/Majesty branded eBay direct fit intercooler.

The only disadvantage is like all cheap DPs the stainless isn't real stainless and it will rust in our climate. If you can live with rust no one will see on a part that will last the life of the car, you can save $500.

I can list the advantages of this but it will take me all day. Thank me later.

Okay well this is a new path that I've just now learned haha. I'm guessing this is the same idea as flashing to stock and use O2 spacer for inspection time, correct?

I'll look into this option, I appreciate your input.
 

Hoon

Autocross Champion
Location
Rhode Island
Okay well this is a new path that I've just now learned haha. I'm guessing this is the same idea as flashing to stock and use O2 spacer for inspection time, correct?

I'll look into this option, I appreciate your input.

You can do that or just swap the DP it's a 20 minute job (after the first time because the bolts from the bracket to the block on the stock DP are a PITA, but you dont need them if the stock DP is only being put back for a few days to pass inspection).
 

slogti

Ready to race!
Location
APRFTW
Car(s)
APR Stage 1+ GTI
I agree with Hoon 100% definitely go with cobb its better all around (get way more bang for buck) and allows for way more tuning potential in the long run.
 

Martin398

Ready to race!
Location
MA
I'm on Unitronic myself and even I'd say go with the Cobb AP. I'm very happy with what I chose but I knew what I wanted and what I was limiting myself. The AP gives you more tuning options, flexibility and re-sale value if need be.
 

qomn

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Boston
How does the EQT OTS tune compare to others? I don't see a stage 1/2 differentiation, but you fill in whether you have a DP so I'm guessing that would mean you'd receive a stage 2 tune, correct?

Edit: also, can you update the tune once you upgrade other parts like intercooler and intake without buying the tune full price again?

Edit: And is this the FMIC you're recommending? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tube-Fin-I...ash=item2ced1c6e86:g:xLIAAOSwJmtdOS~U&vxp=mtr
 
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