Put a Depo catted DP on the car and go with an EQT OTS map and a Cobb Acessport.Okay guys, after researching based on your advice I've begun to lean towards a tune that I can flash myself. I've heard good things about unitronic in terms of power, but this leads me to a couple new questions.
1. The cost of a unitronic stage 2 tune looks to be $750, this is on top of the cost of a downpipe which is around $800. This adds up to about the same as APR stage 2 if I'm understanding correctly - but there will be the additional cost of a tuning... mechanism? Which leads me to 2.
2. What do I need in order to be able to flash tunes myself? Unitronic sells a uniconnect module for a pretty good price and it seems like I can flash with a laptop using that. People also suggested the Cobb module, but that is much more expensive and seems like it does the same thing, but maybe I'm wrong about that (like maybe Cobb is universal but uniconnect only works with unitronic).
3. I've been told multiple times by different people now here and at APR/Volkswagen dealers that if I flash to stock/stage 1 and drive ~150 miles I will pass inspection as long as there's no CEL. I just want to confirm that this is the case, basically all I need to worry about is suppressing the CEL on stock ECU software (which will be done with CTS downpipe + O2 spacer?).
Okay well this is a new path that I've just now learned haha. I'm guessing this is the same idea as flashing to stock and use O2 spacer for inspection time, correct?Put a Depo catted DP on the car and go with an EQT OTS map and a Cobb Acessport.
Spend the savings on a Magic/Majesty branded eBay direct fit intercooler.
The only disadvantage is like all cheap DPs the stainless isn't real stainless and it will rust in our climate. If you can live with rust no one will see on a part that will last the life of the car, you can save $500.
I can list the advantages of this but it will take me all day. Thank me later.
You can do that or just swap the DP it's a 20 minute job (after the first time because the bolts from the bracket to the block on the stock DP are a PITA, but you dont need them if the stock DP is only being put back for a few days to pass inspection).Okay well this is a new path that I've just now learned haha. I'm guessing this is the same idea as flashing to stock and use O2 spacer for inspection time, correct?
I'll look into this option, I appreciate your input.
EQT charges for a revision which they should.How does the EQT OTS tune compare to others? I don't see a stage 1/2 differentiation, but you fill in whether you have a DP so I'm guessing that would mean you'd receive a stage 2 tune, correct?
Edit: also, can you update the tune once you upgrade other parts like intercooler and intake without buying the tune full price again?
Edit: And is this the FMIC you're recommending? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tube-Fin-Intercooler-Kit-For-Audi-A3-S3-VW-Golf-GTI-R-MK7-EA888-1-8T-2-0T-TSI/192956624518?hash=item2ced1c6e86:g:xLIAAOSwJmtdOS~U&vxp=mtr
Don't mean to thread jack but this is a typical response to this oft-asked question that is short on specifics and multiple people to back up. MAP catted DP, got that. Which sensor mount? Which way is it pointing? Which spacer? How many years have you passed? Do you know anyone else with the same setup in MA that passes every year with zero parts swaps? I don't consider flashing to a stock tune a "parts swap".Just went for my inspection yesterday and passed. Best bet is to get an accessport so you can flash back to stock or even get an "emissions tune" which will keep your same stage 1/2/3 file.... ect but allow all the monitors to run and see if all your monitors are "ready", keep in mind temperature (from experience it should be between 40-90F) does affect wither some of the monitors run their tests to become ready so if you are lucky and have a summer month you are fine. Downpipe concerns really shouldn't be necessary as long as you put your stock cat back on and its relatively not loud. Just make sure when you go you have an 02 spacer so you eliminate the CEL and all your monitors are set to ready.
There's a very detailed thread on this (quick search should find it), yes they can have some fitment issues but they work very well.Good questions up there^^
I have another one of my own haha. I just got off the phone with my garage and he said chinese intercoolers sometimes have fitment issues that require a lot of work to get in and can drive labor costs way up. Do you guys have good experience with magic/majesty in this regard? If the fitment is poor and they have to do extra work to get it in then I might be better off spending extra for a good brand in terms of parts+labor.
Good to know there’s no need for concern as long as everything is tip-top n ready w stock setup.Downpipe concerns really shouldn't be necessary as long as you put your stock cat back on and its relatively not loud. Just make sure when you go you have an 02 spacer so you eliminate the CEL and all your monitors are set to ready.