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APR Stage 2 in MA

qomn

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Boston
Okay guys, after researching based on your advice I've begun to lean towards a tune that I can flash myself. I've heard good things about unitronic in terms of power, but this leads me to a couple new questions.

1. The cost of a unitronic stage 2 tune looks to be $750, this is on top of the cost of a downpipe which is around $800. This adds up to about the same as APR stage 2 if I'm understanding correctly - but there will be the additional cost of a tuning... mechanism? Which leads me to 2.

2. What do I need in order to be able to flash tunes myself? Unitronic sells a uniconnect module for a pretty good price and it seems like I can flash with a laptop using that. People also suggested the Cobb module, but that is much more expensive and seems like it does the same thing, but maybe I'm wrong about that (like maybe Cobb is universal but uniconnect only works with unitronic).

3. I've been told multiple times by different people now here and at APR/Volkswagen dealers that if I flash to stock/stage 1 and drive ~150 miles I will pass inspection as long as there's no CEL. I just want to confirm that this is the case, basically all I need to worry about is suppressing the CEL on stock ECU software (which will be done with CTS downpipe + O2 spacer?).
 

Hoon

Drag Racing Champion
Location
Rhode Island
Okay guys, after researching based on your advice I've begun to lean towards a tune that I can flash myself. I've heard good things about unitronic in terms of power, but this leads me to a couple new questions.

1. The cost of a unitronic stage 2 tune looks to be $750, this is on top of the cost of a downpipe which is around $800. This adds up to about the same as APR stage 2 if I'm understanding correctly - but there will be the additional cost of a tuning... mechanism? Which leads me to 2.

2. What do I need in order to be able to flash tunes myself? Unitronic sells a uniconnect module for a pretty good price and it seems like I can flash with a laptop using that. People also suggested the Cobb module, but that is much more expensive and seems like it does the same thing, but maybe I'm wrong about that (like maybe Cobb is universal but uniconnect only works with unitronic).

3. I've been told multiple times by different people now here and at APR/Volkswagen dealers that if I flash to stock/stage 1 and drive ~150 miles I will pass inspection as long as there's no CEL. I just want to confirm that this is the case, basically all I need to worry about is suppressing the CEL on stock ECU software (which will be done with CTS downpipe + O2 spacer?).
Put a Depo catted DP on the car and go with an EQT OTS map and a Cobb Acessport.

Spend the savings on a Magic/Majesty branded eBay direct fit intercooler.

The only disadvantage is like all cheap DPs the stainless isn't real stainless and it will rust in our climate. If you can live with rust no one will see on a part that will last the life of the car, you can save $500.

I can list the advantages of this but it will take me all day. Thank me later.
 

qomn

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Boston
Put a Depo catted DP on the car and go with an EQT OTS map and a Cobb Acessport.

Spend the savings on a Magic/Majesty branded eBay direct fit intercooler.

The only disadvantage is like all cheap DPs the stainless isn't real stainless and it will rust in our climate. If you can live with rust no one will see on a part that will last the life of the car, you can save $500.

I can list the advantages of this but it will take me all day. Thank me later.
Okay well this is a new path that I've just now learned haha. I'm guessing this is the same idea as flashing to stock and use O2 spacer for inspection time, correct?

I'll look into this option, I appreciate your input.
 

Hoon

Drag Racing Champion
Location
Rhode Island
Okay well this is a new path that I've just now learned haha. I'm guessing this is the same idea as flashing to stock and use O2 spacer for inspection time, correct?

I'll look into this option, I appreciate your input.
You can do that or just swap the DP it's a 20 minute job (after the first time because the bolts from the bracket to the block on the stock DP are a PITA, but you dont need them if the stock DP is only being put back for a few days to pass inspection).
 

avgmk7

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
MA
I agree with Hoon 100% definitely go with cobb its better all around (get way more bang for buck) and allows for way more tuning potential in the long run.
 

Martin398

Ready to race!
Location
MA
I'm on Unitronic myself and even I'd say go with the Cobb AP. I'm very happy with what I chose but I knew what I wanted and what I was limiting myself. The AP gives you more tuning options, flexibility and re-sale value if need be.
 

qomn

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Boston
How does the EQT OTS tune compare to others? I don't see a stage 1/2 differentiation, but you fill in whether you have a DP so I'm guessing that would mean you'd receive a stage 2 tune, correct?

Edit: also, can you update the tune once you upgrade other parts like intercooler and intake without buying the tune full price again?

Edit: And is this the FMIC you're recommending? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tube-Fin-Intercooler-Kit-For-Audi-A3-S3-VW-Golf-GTI-R-MK7-EA888-1-8T-2-0T-TSI/192956624518?hash=item2ced1c6e86:g:xLIAAOSwJmtdOS~U&vxp=mtr
 
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jimlloyd40

Autocross Newbie
Location
Phoenix
Ride
2018 SE DSG
How does the EQT OTS tune compare to others? I don't see a stage 1/2 differentiation, but you fill in whether you have a DP so I'm guessing that would mean you'd receive a stage 2 tune, correct?

Edit: also, can you update the tune once you upgrade other parts like intercooler and intake without buying the tune full price again?

Edit: And is this the FMIC you're recommending? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tube-Fin-Intercooler-Kit-For-Audi-A3-S3-VW-Golf-GTI-R-MK7-EA888-1-8T-2-0T-TSI/192956624518?hash=item2ced1c6e86:g:xLIAAOSwJmtdOS~U&vxp=mtr
EQT charges for a revision which they should.
 

shovelhd

Ready to race!
Location
Western MA
Just went for my inspection yesterday and passed. Best bet is to get an accessport so you can flash back to stock or even get an "emissions tune" which will keep your same stage 1/2/3 file.... ect but allow all the monitors to run and see if all your monitors are "ready", keep in mind temperature (from experience it should be between 40-90F) does affect wither some of the monitors run their tests to become ready so if you are lucky and have a summer month you are fine. Downpipe concerns really shouldn't be necessary as long as you put your stock cat back on and its relatively not loud. Just make sure when you go you have an 02 spacer so you eliminate the CEL and all your monitors are set to ready.
Don't mean to thread jack but this is a typical response to this oft-asked question that is short on specifics and multiple people to back up. MAP catted DP, got that. Which sensor mount? Which way is it pointing? Which spacer? How many years have you passed? Do you know anyone else with the same setup in MA that passes every year with zero parts swaps? I don't consider flashing to a stock tune a "parts swap".
 

qomn

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Boston
Good questions up there^^

I have another one of my own haha. I just got off the phone with my garage and he said chinese intercoolers sometimes have fitment issues that require a lot of work to get in and can drive labor costs way up. Do you guys have good experience with magic/majesty in this regard? If the fitment is poor and they have to do extra work to get it in then I might be better off spending extra for a good brand in terms of parts+labor.
 

Hoon

Drag Racing Champion
Location
Rhode Island
Good questions up there^^

I have another one of my own haha. I just got off the phone with my garage and he said chinese intercoolers sometimes have fitment issues that require a lot of work to get in and can drive labor costs way up. Do you guys have good experience with magic/majesty in this regard? If the fitment is poor and they have to do extra work to get it in then I might be better off spending extra for a good brand in terms of parts+labor.
There's a very detailed thread on this (quick search should find it), yes they can have some fitment issues but they work very well.

Some people have noted fitment issues on many of the name brand ones that are twice the price, but the Chinese ones are definitely worse.
 

qomn

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Boston
So maybe it's worth paying a little bit extra for a better brand? I wouldn't worry as much if I was going to DIY the intercooler, but I don't feel comfortable with that - DP is probably as far I will go. I just don't want to get screwed on labor costs (due to parts, I trust the garage).

EDIT: Is this the thread? https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/magic-majesty-ebay-16-4-liter-intercooler.348009/

Looks like there is actually a lot that needs to be done extra? Unless I can provide extra parts that are required and maybe point them towards some of the tips from that thread, it seems like things could add up.

Any experience/thoughts on BMS? https://burgertuning.com/products/mqb-platform-vw-intercooler
 
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Stija

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Az
Ride
BMW Saab Subaru VW
Downpipe concerns really shouldn't be necessary as long as you put your stock cat back on and its relatively not loud. Just make sure when you go you have an 02 spacer so you eliminate the CEL and all your monitors are set to ready.
Good to know there’s no need for concern as long as everything is tip-top n ready w stock setup.
 

qomn

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Boston
Okay so I got the depo catted downpipe, bms intercooler, and Cobb AP with eqt ots. I'm sitting in the waiting room of Eastside motoring in Waltham, MA right now and they started working on the car at 12pm. It is now 5:50pm and they're not done. They told me they're having trouble getting the stock downpipe out, I thought it would be the intercooler but apparently that was fine! These guys are APR dealers so they should do this all the time. I'm pretty confused about what's going on... and now worried about what labor is going to cost.

I was told that the mk7.5 model has a different cat, maybe bigger, maybe different angle, than the mk7 and they're having trouble taking the stock dp out. Does this make sense at all?? I thought the facelift was identical mechanically.

EDIT: Got more info. So yeah they're saying they had to remove some extra stuff to be able to get the stock dp out. They're saying it took as much time as an mk7.5 R. Still not sure how the facelift changed the downpipe or surrounding parts. Another fun issue...the depo downpipe is not a good fit for the back half of the exhaust so there's a good amount of leak, including flutter when revved. So I will 100% have to swap for inspection. Is this normal?? Should I contact depo? They said a solution is to weld the pipes, but swapping to stock will require it be cut so I don't want to do that. Are there risks to keeping it this way?

EDIT2: Ended up being charged $600, $350 for IC which I guess is fine, and $250 for the downpipe.
 
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Desslok

Go Kart Newbie
Location
PA
Have the shop weld a few inches of identically sized pipe on both the end of the downpipe and end of the catback. Use the same size clamp and it won't leak.
 
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