PerceivedShift
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Virginia
"car low. spring good"
"car low. spring good"
Shouldn't we not use stock shocks on lowering springs because of the reduced stroke? Stock shocks will wear out quick on lowering springs is what I always read.I've only tested these on the stock shocks and struts.
Are all the measurements/photos of a DSG car? Is there any recommendation, eg the Audi TT pads, for 6MT cars to avoid reverse rake?
I have always not understood why a shorter spring causes any issues - the damper doesn't care how long your spring is beyond the pre-load issue of keeping it seated. It's likely more related to the higher spring rate putting more stress on it is really all. Like opening our hatch really hard vs. softly shortening the life of the prop-struts.Shouldn't we not use stock shocks on lowering springs because of the reduced stroke? Stock shocks will wear out quick on lowering springs is what I always read.
The dampers in my video were "like new" (to me) after ~45K or whatever it was with half of that on H&Rs. Stock dampers are probably running at reduced rate on stock springs a lot sooner than folks realize. Linear or not should have no bearing on that. These APR springs are working as a single-rate linear spring most of the time, it's not like they are continuously progressive...it's just 2 rates....1 you are in all the time, and 1 for the dead coils that you only "see" when you are at full extension. Unless oil is leaking out, I can't see how a damper "wears out"...the orifice the oil flows through doesn't get wider..hahahaI mean, you all can do whatever you want, but I can say that my EMD springs (linear spring, btw) had my stock dampers clapped out after 45k miles. Heck, my stock dampers on stock springs on my MKV were shot at 90k and it wasn't even lowered. So to say that dampers generally last the life of the car and never need changed, including being lowered, is pretty wild in my opinion.
I only mentioned the linear part because it's a detail pretty unique to the EMD springs. I doubt it makes much of a difference. We just replaced the shocks in my wife's Honda Fit at 120k miles for the same reason. Noticeably deteriorated ride quality with no signs of oil leaking.The dampers in my video were "like new" (to me) after ~45K or whatever it was with half of that on H&Rs. Stock dampers are probably running at reduced rate on stock springs a lot sooner than folks realize. Linear or not should have no bearing on that. These APR springs are working as a single-rate linear spring most of the time, it's not like they are continuously progressive...it's just 2 rates....1 you are in all the time, and 1 for the dead coils that you only "see" when you are at full extension. Unless oil is leaking out, I can't see how a damper "wears out"...the orifice the oil flows through doesn't get wider..hahaha
Don't disagree - they are not a life part for sure.I only mentioned the linear part because it's a detail pretty unique to the EMD springs. I doubt it makes much of a difference. We just replaced the shocks in my wife's Honda Fit at 120k miles for the same reason. Noticeably deteriorated ride quality with no signs of oil leaking.
I wonder how these compare with 034's Dynamic+
First guess is these might be a firmer ride? 034 is 280/210 vs APR 362/323
Wow...yeah really wide. The H&Rs don't rub with my Eurosport mounts. I don't think most of them will/are large around like this for the fronts. Reminds me of the 034 ball joints when I ask them on their weekly live session yesterday about why not make some that have more clearance for BBKs...they just can't make them to fit all situations was their response (makes sense). This surprises me though, I mean, why make them wider? I realize this is a variable to control rate/spring design but I don't think anyone else does that (not have OE-size springs). Bummer b/c the APR rates look good.For anyone interested: these things are no good if you have camber top mounts. These springs are fucking massive compared to stock. You lose a solid 10+mm of inner fender clearance right where you need it.
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The barrel is not offset at all like an OEM spring.
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And it contacts the inner fender. Before you even try to get the knuckle on. Which requires it to be pushed even further inwards.
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I know APR doesn’t sell offset mounts, but this seems like an oversight when marketed as a performance spring on a platform that has multiple offset upper mount options on the market. I’m not a manufacturer but if I were specing out a spring, I’d probably check fitment of some related popular parts first.
At least you have that parys spreadsheet thoI'm going to go ahead and just install them anyway... hoping that at ride height, with the camber lower ball joints they move the coils away far enough from the body to not hit under normal circumstances. It really sucks because I feel like these are pretty decent rate and drop wise. Just really pissed about blowing $70 in hardware to potentially have to rip it apart again if it doesn't work out.