APR DTR6054 Direct Turbocharger Replacement System

[PastaMachina]

Hey everybody, just had the DTR6054 kit (just turbo) installed by my local shop and I keep getting a CEL over the wastegate. I cannot remember the specific code, and I'll get that later today when I call them, but the car is also going into limp mode.

Voltage is at 3.568V and according to Kal @ APR, the voltage should be 3.5V-3.58V. I am seeing people in here run the voltage up to 3.7V for the DTR6054 if there are issues. So...what is the real recommended voltage range for the DTR?? And is 3.7V safe?

That being said, after clearing the code and reflashing the ECU, the code was gone, so the shop ran the adaptation and it passed. They took it for a test drive, all was good, they did a nice WOT pull, came to a stop at the red light a boom, CEL and limp mode. Does anyone have any ideas why the car would be going into limp mode? Bad actuator? Bad linkage on the DTR? Vacuum leak?

Like I said I'll get the error code later on today, hopefully there's just one, and post it. Not sure if my shop has a support ticket open with APR yet but it may come to that.

Oh and my car is a 2018 GTI SE DSG with just an APR IC installed. I was previously APR Stage 1 93 high torque with the stage 1 TCU tune. The shop flashed the 93 AWD ECU file and the Stage 3 DSG tune for the DTR.

 

[Covelight]

Hey everybody, just had the DTR6054 kit (just turbo) installed by my local shop and I keep getting a CEL over the wastegate. I cannot remember the specific code, and I'll get that later today when I call them, but the car is also going into limp mode.

Voltage is at 3.568V and according to Kal @ APR, the voltage should be 3.5V-3.58V. I am seeing people in here run the voltage up to 3.7V for the DTR6054 if there are issues. So...what is the real recommended voltage range for the DTR?? And is 3.7V safe?

That being said, after clearing the code and reflashing the ECU, the code was gone, so the shop ran the adaptation and it passed. They took it for a test drive, all was good, they did a nice WOT pull, came to a stop at the red light a boom, CEL and limp mode. Does anyone have any ideas why the car would be going into limp mode? Bad actuator? Bad linkage on the DTR? Vacuum leak?

Like I said I'll get the error code later on today, hopefully there's just one, and post it. Not sure if my shop has a support ticket open with APR yet but it may come to that.

Oh and my car is a 2018 GTI SE DSG with just an APR IC installed. I was previously APR Stage 1 93 high torque with the stage 1 TCU tune. The shop flashed the 93 AWD ECU file and the Stage 3 DSG tune for the DTR.

It could be your wastegate actuator. This happened to me about a couple weeks ago. The shop I went to worked with APR to troubleshoot it so I don't know anything specific for voltage.

 

[PastaMachina]

It could be your wastegate actuator. This happened to me about a couple weeks ago. The shop I went to worked with APR to troubleshoot it so I don't know anything specific for voltage.

That's precisely what it was. They overnighted a new one for Monday delivery (hopefully).

I'd still like to know the correct voltage though if anybody can chime in. What happens if you apply too much voltage?

Also, is the correct way to read the voltage AND run the adaptation for an IS20 actuator on a GTI to start the engine and leave the car idle?

 

[timmyturbo]

That's precisely what it was. They overnighted a new one for Monday delivery (hopefully).

I'd still like to know the correct voltage though if anybody can chime in. What happens if you apply too much voltage?

Also, is the correct way to read the voltage AND run the adaptation for an IS20 actuator on a GTI to start the engine and leave the car idle?

For the is20 actuator, to read the voltage the car needs to be on with engine running at idle. Take note of the voltage, turn off the car. If the voltage wasn't in range, you'll need to make an adjustment to the actuator rod and then turn car on with engine running again to see where the voltage is. Rinse and repeat if it's still not in range. Once you have the voltage correct, turn ignition on, but engine NOT running, run the adaptation. This is part of the reason why the is20 can be a pain in the ass, you have to keep turning the car on with engine running to check it, and of course things get hot real quick if you need to keep making adjustments.
In terms of voltage, just stick with what APR wants, that way atleast no one can say you're not within spec if there is a problem unrelated to the actuator calibration. I can tell you that I've adjusted my actuator on my DTR from 3.4XV up to 3.9XV multiple times with no discernable difference. It seems if your within the commonly accepted range and it passes adaptation then there doesn't seem to be much issue. If you're so out of range then the adaptation won't pass. That being said I'll refer to my previous point. If the tuner, in this case APR, wants 3.5-3.58V and something is still wrong, then they can't really blame the actuator not being adjusted correctly. It would also be helpful to find out the code your getting.

There is a good video from everything CPO (I believe @vaarticus on here) on YouTube bench calibrating an is20 actuator before installing the turbo with some other useful information regarding calibration.

 

[PastaMachina]

For the is20 actuator, to read the voltage the car needs to be on with engine running at idle. Take note of the voltage, turn off the car. If the voltage wasn't in range, you'll need to make an adjustment to the actuator rod and then turn car on with engine running again to see where the voltage is. Rinse and repeat if it's still not in range. Once you have the voltage correct, turn ignition on, but engine NOT running, run the adaptation. This is part of the reason why the is20 can be a pain in the ass, you have to keep turning the car on with engine running to check it, and of course things get hot real quick if you need to keep making adjustments.
In terms of voltage, just stick with what APR wants, that way atleast no one can say you're not within spec if there is a problem unrelated to the actuator calibration. I can tell you that I've adjusted my actuator on my DTR from 3.4XV up to 3.9XV multiple times with no discernable difference. It seems if your within the commonly accepted range and it passes adaptation then there doesn't seem to be much issue. If you're so out of range then the adaptation won't pass. That being said I'll refer to my previous point. If the tuner, in this case APR, wants 3.5-3.58V and something is still wrong, then they can't really blame the actuator not being adjusted correctly. It would also be helpful to find out the code your getting.

There is a good video from everything CPO (I believe @vaarticus on here) on YouTube bench calibrating an is20 actuator before installing the turbo with some other useful information regarding calibration.

Excellent info, thanks! So I take it that if someone were to read the voltage incorrectly, with the engine off and ignition on, the adaptation would fail?

 

[timmyturbo]

Excellent info, thanks! So I take it that if someone were to read the voltage incorrectly, with the engine off and ignition on, the adaptation would fail?

With engine off and the ignition on for the is20 style actuator then the voltage is going to be resting voltage of the actuator. So if someone was using that voltage to base the adjustments off of then chances are its way out of range and adaptation would likely fail.
For the "is38 style" actuator the voltage can be read properly with just ignition on, so adjustments can be made live easily and then just run the adaptation once it's in range. So if someone didn't know the difference in actuators they could use the wrong method.
To add to this IS38 turbos on the golf R and Audi S3 at some point were switched over to the IS20 style actuators. My cars IS38 turbo had the IS20 style actuator.

For reference here's an image i had found where someone showed the difference in actuators. You can see how they are physically different.

 

[danr7]

@Arin@APR is this turbo and software available for other applications of EA888.3 such as Skoda, Seat, Tiguan, Arteon etc?

 

[Arin@APR]

Probably yes. We just need to check the ECU box code before purchasing.

 

[PastaMachina]

Whew so its finally done. I won't get into the cluster**** that ended up happening but this was not just plug and play for me. As a customer, I wanted a smooth and easy upgrade and for most people this seems to be the case - which is great. Might just be my luck I don't know.

For those on the fence, the upgrade at its cost of $1500 is definitely worth it. I went with the 93 Octane AWD ECU file and DTR TCU tune and the amount of speed and pull you get is just absurd. I'm coming from an APR Stage 1 High Torque 93 Octane tune with it's accompanying TCU tune...and it was great but just isn't enough over stock for me. Plus I was having issues with power delivery on that tune that was mostly caused by a failing wastegate actuator.

I was very worried about the feel of the car and turbo lag at lower RPMs but was very surprised. A Stage 1 tune makes the car very jolting and janky at lower RPMs and it leads to a rougher ride, even when trying to drive relatively smoothly. And this was something I didn't necessarily like, but I just got used to. This tune is waaaay smoother on the low end, no quick torquey jolts, but the car still plants me in my seat and spins the wheels over 3500rpm. And yes there is a bit of lag, but people need to realize that they have an extra ~800 rpm on the top end. So the whole powerband shifts to the right. Daily driving is much more comfortable and relaxing.

Sporty driving is.....crazy...and scary. It's definitely something you have to get used to. I don't have a Dragy or anything like it (considering it), and you all have seen a ton of data so far, so this probably seems repetitive and redundant, but from 40mph onward the car is so much faster. It might take another 1000 rpm to really kick in but you get that back on the high end and the turbo pulls hard all the way to 7300rpm. It feels amazing....and that whistle is sexy. I'm on the OEM airbox unmodified and can hear the whistle very mildly when driving. It isn't annoying for me at all.

So I'm pretty damn happy with it so far but installation wasn't without its issues. Knowing the issues I'd have getting it installed, would I buy it again? No, I'd have gone with a different turbo. Like I said I won't really go into details about the issues and I have no animosity against anybody. I'm just happy that it's resolved. Now that's its finally in and running well, I feel pretty good.

 

[avenali312]

Like I said I won't really go into details about the issues and I have no animosity against anybody. I'm just happy that it's resolved. Now that's its finally in and running well, I feel pretty good.

Did you self-install or have a shop do it? Can you at least indicate whether it was an issue with the hard parts/instructions or the installer's skill level?

 

[PastaMachina]

Did you self-install or have a shop do it? Can you at least indicate whether it was an issue with the hard parts/instructions or the installer's skill level?

I brought it to a local shop that works on Porsches, Audis, BMWs, and Volkswagens every day. Their skill level is pretty high and not something I would personally question.

 

[avenali312]

I brought it to a local shop that works on Porsches, Audis, BMWs, and Volkswagens every day. Their skill level is pretty high and not something I would personally question.

Yeah, I wasn't trying to imply a bad shop, just good data for us/future potential customers to have. You may want to private message Arin or send in a support ticket to APR to make them aware.

 

[PastaMachina]

Yeah, I wasn't trying to imply a bad shop, just good data for us/future potential customers to have. You may want to private message Arin or send in a support ticket to APR to make them aware.

I know you weren't - all good. And they're very aware lol... or at least they should be. There was a service ticket involved.

 

[Salami]

I know you weren't - all good. And they're very aware lol... or at least they should be. There was a service ticket involved.

What kind of issues were there? Considering buying the kit and would like to know about potential issues.

 

[Covelight]

What kind of issues were there? Considering buying the kit and would like to know about potential issues.

I had a wastegate issue with mine. It'd be nice if APR provided a pre-calibrated wastegate option the way EQT does with their Vortex line. If you do buy the kit, do the fueling from the jump.