GOLFMK8
GOLFMK7
GOLFMK6
GOLFMKV

APR DTR6054 Direct Turbocharger Replacement System

riceburner

Autocross Champion
Location
Nice Try, PPNT!
Car(s)
MK7 R
On any issue, this is the proper way to get support. Always submit a ticket. Thank you!
thank you for your help this is exactly the reaponse i was looking for
 

PerceivedShift

Autocross Champion
Location
Virginia
IE could see they fucked up when they looked at the file. APR has no idea what you did to your car prior to the turbo swap. It could have been on its way out already. You just hurried it along to its inevitable demise.
Are there a tables in the ECU that could cause a lean condition or advanced spark in a single cylinder?
 

Tom/APR1

Ready to race!
Location
Auburn, AL
Ultimately cause and order of events was inconclusive, only thing conclusive were the results:

I'm not trying to poke the bear or anything, but are you aware that just like the turbos, there are known issues with the injectors on those early cars? One of our software engineers has a '15 A3, Stage 2 since new, around 50k miles on the car now. Last week, right in front of work, the car started misfiring and stumbling badly. One of the techs immediately checked it and only found misfire codes, like yours. After further diagnosis, it was determined that a fuel injector had stuck open, filling a cylinder with fuel... Fortunately for him, it was caught before it hydrolocked the cylinder, or else he would have needed an engine as well.

When ordering new injectors, it appears that there have been FOUR OR FIVE supersessions to the OEM injectors (depending on which engine) since 2015. So, he now has four new, updated injectors and a fresh oil change, because his old oil (which only had like 500 miles on it) was saturated with gasoline. Other people on this forum have also posted about the same issue, with stuck or failed injectors.

My point is, we can't fix every problem that VAG has with the cars and promise that all cars will be issue free. If we legitimately have a problem with our products, we do everything we can to make it right and help out our customers until they are satisfied. The DTR software "issue" was just that on some ECU box codes, in certain circumstances one protection was overlapping another, which made some cars make less than advertised power. There never was any danger to the car, it just made less power. That issue has now been resolved with updates, and we paid dealers to flash the updates at no charge to the customers.

As a DTR owner ('19 GLI Autobahn with DQ381), this entire thread frustrates me, because the kit on my car does everything we say it does. Same goes for the four(?) other DTR cars here at APR, some company cars, some employee cars. There seem to be a ton of naysayers here that simply want the kit to fail for whatever motive or agenda they have. I have said this before, and I will say it again; the DTR makes more power with the OEM catalyst than an IS38 car with an aftermarket downpipe, period. Although sometimes that is not super apparent until you are at higher speeds where traction is not an issue. My car also has a 100% clean emissions bill of health (as seen below).

While I know some of you will dismiss my data because "I am an APR car", I run the same production FWD ECU and TCU files as all of you. The dragy numbers are good as well, considering my car is heavy and has big 19x8.5 A01 wheels with 255/35-19 PS4S's. I probably have 5000 miles and almost five months on the kit since its install, and zero issues to report. I will say that the heat, just like on any car with a stock catalyst, does come into play sometimes but it is not as bad as some people make it out to be. I raced a C7 Vette from ~75 to 160mph on a 97° day and pulled a car length on him. I am hoping when it cools off that I will be able to get to the dragstrip to get numbers there.

If any of you are having issues with the DTR, you need to submit support tickets... There are not many open right now, and they all mostly lack the data needed to help resolve them.

Emissions:
emissions_1.JPG
emissions_2.JPG



Dragy:
received_673024260440897.jpeg
received_416593996610651.jpeg
 

mrmattolsen

Autocross Champion
Location
Jacksonville, FL
Car(s)
2015 GTI DSG
🍿
 

jay745

track sl00t
Location
Chicago
Car(s)
2 vw's
I like that response and have found Apr to be a company with good support over the years.

This thread is back on topic as of now.  Stop using it for shit posting. You'll be removed from replying if so.

Go and do what they say and open a support ticket or quit complaining. If your car isn't making the power, suport ticket. If you can't pass emissions, support ticket.
 

CarbonDub

Autocross Champion
Wasn’t fuel in my cylinder it was oil, injectors all tested fine. Either detonation happened first or ringland/some other internal failure first - no further logs or data pointing to the tune, tie goes to APR.

Regarding the performance I’ll leave it at this:

Someone (literally anyone) besides an APR employee needs to substantiate an 11-flat 60-130 on level ground for me to believe that is what owners should realistically expect, as opposed to the mid-11s everyone else is seeing.

I recall one guy on Reddit early on claimed mid-10s via Dragy but he never posted a slip. My numbers more in line with @Arin@APR’s - @Tom/APR1 remains the outlier somehow, and on a heavier platform.
 

Patrykd07

Autocross Champion
Location
Buffalo NY
I just want to clarify something before I get censored for "shit posting". For the most part, speaking on the behalf of us DTR owners out here, if we have anything "bad" to say it's mostly constructive criticism, especially since we already shelled out the $$ for the kit and the install. Plus, having invested in it already, we want the kit to succeed and others to enjoy it too, this is why I posted all the data I have. I know of 4 people that bought DTR's because of my data and my word to them of my experience. I don't think any of us are sponsored to have gotten the kit for free or a discount so I feel like what we have to say is pretty genuine and not sugar coated. This is important for any potential customers looking to understand what to expect when looking for a kit like this, especially if they spend the time to research beforehand and not just jump into the kit like we had done.

I personally have had some great things to say about the kit with some pretty great results with dragy (on the street) and dyno. It's also been very reliable especially with what I've put the kit and my car through in my testing. However, it's hard to ignore that there are some elephants in the room with some customers that have hit few little snags, myself included. It's hard to ignore that and say the kit is perfect and move on. Do I think the kit is awful and capable of blowing cars up left and right? No I do not. Especially with how much I've pushed my car over this past year with this kit. I think from a calibration stand point, you guys did a great job, I still can't believe how smooth the car is, especially from a daily driver stand point.

However, I think a few important key things should be noted in an asterisk with this kit (taking about the R kit with fueling specifically).
1) 400WHP Sometimes. This is a big one. I think this is why we're seeing certain cars run vastly faster than others and vice versa in different conditions. Yes, higher IAT's will result in timing being pulled and performance suffering for safety. However, with my testing, with IAT's being in the 100F range, the performance suffers greatly with this kit. When you make two runs, and one is at 80F IAT's and the other is at 100F IAT's, that 20 degrees of difference means running ~5mph slower in the trap on a 1/8th mile pass. That's very noticeable on the street.
-Can this be addressed with a meth kit? I believe so, and I plan to add that to address the issue, but anyone living in warmer climates needs to be aware of this.

-Does this mean my upgraded intercooler is not sufficient? Im not sure, the specifications on the APR website just state that the intercooler needs to be upgraded period.

-Does this mean the car is "slow" with the DTR? Yes and no. For me personally, I'm used to stage 2 levels with my car. I'm also used to the punchiness of the IS38 in lower RPMS. So without that.. the car doesn't feel as great, especially with those higher IAT's in the summer. However, I've proven that even with the higher IAT's, the time slips and trap speeds seem about on par with that of a stage 1/2 APR car, which is still quick by all means.

-Do the higher IAT's mean the car doesn't have the advertised horsepower? I believe so, yes. All my dyno pulls that achieved 400whp had IAT's in the 60s. I'm very curious what the power output would be if the IAT's were in the 100s as you'd see typically on the street or the track in the summer. I'd be willing to bet they're more in the 340whp-350whp range like a stage 2 car would be. Again, stage 2 performance with a stock downpipe = great by all means especially being emissions legal, but not 400whp.

-But how often do my IAT's ever even go above ambient temperature let alone 100F?

-Will switching to the E85 tunes fix this issue? No. Have my sources, will not elaborate on this publicly.

2) Emissions monitors setting. I think there needs to be a document somewhere on this, specifically on letting people know the procedure to run in VCDS and OBD11 to get the emissions monitors to set. People without access to those devices may have trouble with this. People are buying this kit for sake of convenience of not having to go back and forth with tuning software. So I'm wondering if there will be an update from APR to have these set automatically.

That's really it from me. Otherwise I don't have anything bad to say from my perspective. And yes, I've had support tickets about this, and yes it's considered normal. Since it's normal, just letting people know what to expect :)
 
Last edited:

Acadia18

Autocross Champion
Location
Rhode Island
Car(s)
2017 VW Golf R
-But how often do my IAT's ever even go above ambient temperature let alone 100F?

My own experience is 40° - 50° above ambient is pretty normal, under boost, for the stock R intercooler. Which is already bigger than the stock GTI one. At least, on a stage 1 car.

55° day in April. IATs nearly reached 100°

1660750809113.png


Even a frigid 41° day in February. IATs were a reasonable level, but that's because it was close to freezing temperatures out.

1660750892263.png


A hot summer day? Fucking forget about it.

1660750967002.png
 

El_bigote_AJ

Autocross Champion
Location
Las Vegas
Car(s)
2019 GTI bunny
My own experience is 40° - 50° above ambient is pretty normal, under boost, for the stock R intercooler. Which is already bigger than the stock GTI one. At least, on a stage 1 car.

55° day in April. IATs nearly reached 100°

View attachment 258410

Even a frigid 41° day in February. IATs were a reasonable level, but that's because it was close to freezing temperatures out.

View attachment 258412

A hot summer day? Fucking forget about it.

View attachment 258413
Jesus, looking at that should be a reminder… “intercooler first” for performance mods.

82B3BC89-6D93-4BA2-9A11-F1D96CA2433B.jpeg
3BCE5483-C0AA-4AA1-B83B-AE703BAEDFCD.jpeg
8DBBCF1F-8159-49E4-A7D8-87F8196E2E3A.jpeg


I will say my viewpoint in regards to IATs and performance… you results really shouldn’t even be taken into account if you are running a stock intercooler on a bigger turbo let alone even a stage 1
 

Patrykd07

Autocross Champion
Location
Buffalo NY
My own experience is 40° - 50° above ambient is pretty normal, under boost, for the stock R intercooler. Which is already bigger than the stock GTI one. At least, on a stage 1 car.

55° day in April. IATs nearly reached 100°

View attachment 258410

Even a frigid 41° day in February. IATs were a reasonable level, but that's because it was close to freezing temperatures out.

View attachment 258412

A hot summer day? Fucking forget about it.

View attachment 258413
Thank you for this, this is what I was trying to portray here. Plus the turbo is bigger than stock, so it will produce more heat naturally. Basically, 100F IAT's is a very normal, typical number to be at. The only time you'd ever be at 80F or below is if it was winter for the most part, or if you've been cruising on the highway with the wind constantly blowing on the intercooler for an extended period of time. You can imagine what that says for the actual advertised power levels during most of your time with the car.

So the main question is, when you do actually have the full magic 400whp? On the dyno with the low IAT's with the fan blowing on the intercooler constantly? On a cold frigid morning before the car is fully warmed up? Not in the summer, Not at the track, certainly not in traffic, on a road course maybe depending on temperature. There really isn't much unless you go with a secondary cooler, such as meth. That's whats upsetting about it. It's like the unwrapped banana.

I have said this before, and I will say it again; the DTR makes more power with the OEM catalyst than an IS38 car with an aftermarket downpipe, period. Although sometimes that is not super apparent until you are at higher speeds where traction is not an issue.
Don't you mean after the wind at higher speeds has cooled IAT's down? Sorry. Quick jab. I kid I kid. I promise :)
 
Top