You absolutely need an intercooler. Also recommend upgrading the mounts, wheel hop is a bitch with the extra power. I’ve had mine on for about 7500 miles. Waiting for flash at home to give the AWD file a shot, not interested in traveling back and forth and paying shop fees to try it out for a bit. Would also need to flash back to FWD for when the winters go on.So this is 1500 bucks for everything I need on my GTI. If I keep the stock downpipe what kind of power am I looking at, and will I have any issues with how the car runs?
I've had this installed months ago, no intercooler and it runs perfectly. Not once I've seen the oil temp going above 220 and water above 205.You absolutely need an intercooler. Also recommend upgrading the mounts, wheel hop is a bitch with the extra power. I’ve had mine on for about 7500 miles. Waiting for flash at home to give the AWD file a shot, not interested in traveling back and forth and paying shop fees to try it out for a bit. Would also need to flash back to FWD for when the winters go on.
If you have an open intake, be prepared for it to whistle like a diesel truck.
I've had this installed months ago, no intercooler and it runs perfectly. Not once I've seen the oil temp going above 220 and water above 205.
Your perception is that it’s running perfectly. If you logged it, I don’t doubt that even on a single pull your charge air temps are going high enough that the tune is pulling power esp if Apr was conservative with the pull.I've had this installed months ago, no intercooler and it runs perfectly. Not once I've seen the oil temp going above 220 and water above 205.
Yeah, intercooler doesn’t affect either of those. Intercooler affects your IAT, the hotter that air, the less likely it is you get the requested boost target. An intercooler helps even the stock tune reach target b/c you’re not getting heat soaked.I've had this installed months ago, no intercooler and it runs perfectly. Not once I've seen the oil temp going above 220 and water above 205.
that isn't a normal situation to begin with...So when I had my GTI stage 2, I had to run 2 gallons per tank of e85 just to keep the damn thing from knocking and pulling timing drastically. Ended up going back to stock. With this setup would I be in the same situation?
This is where the modern wave of calling things “stages” with oem forced induction cars get screwy cause typically stage 1 means tuned utilizing/maximizing stock hardware pretty much across platforms that adopted the whole school of “stages” and stage 2 gets associated with dumping the restrictive stock cat/cats, so that you can get that little extra effort out of your stock hardware (turbo) stage 3 starts to also get pretty wide ranged from my opinion cause typically it’s associated with upgrading your turbo but for me I think when you started getting into extensive fueling mods and adders like meth or even a power adder like nitrous you can assume a car as “stage 3”. Then there’s the case of calling a GTI a stage 3 car if they put on a oem golf r turbo (is38) so if that’s a stage 3 then does a bigger non oem turbo mean it’s a stage 4… and if that bigger turbo is using meth to cool the charge is that a 5, and if they are using nitrous you aid in spool up is that now a 6, lol.1500 for all this including a tune is a great price.
Furthermore, how is the stock downpipe too restrictive for stage 2 on the stock turbo but it will work with this setup just fine?
While I agree with your sentiments regarding the stage naming, that wasn't really the point of my thing. And I also am not trying to hate on APR. I was just asking if my car will see issues running this setup as it ran horrible with a smaller turbo and a tune. I guess I just didn't understand how this 400+hp setup could run on stock hardware if my little 300hp setup pulled huge timingThis is where the modern wave of calling things “stages” with oem forced induction cars get screwy cause typically stage 1 means tuned utilizing/maximizing stock hardware pretty much across platforms that adopted the whole school of “stages” and stage 2 gets associated with dumping the restrictive stock cat/cats, so that you can get that little extra effort out of your stock hardware (turbo) stage 3 starts to also get pretty wide ranged from my opinion cause typically it’s associated with upgrading your turbo but for me I think when you started getting into extensive fueling mods and adders like meth or even a power adder like nitrous you can assume a car as “stage 3”. Then there’s the case of calling a GTI a stage 3 car if they put on a oem golf r turbo (is38) so if that’s a stage 3 then does a bigger non oem turbo mean it’s a stage 4… and if that bigger turbo is using meth to cool the charge is that a 5, and if they are using nitrous you aid in spool up is that now a 6, lol.
My take is to just disassociate the “stages “ unless it’s for describing xyz brands name of their remapping. And in that case the dtr is like a stage 1 map with a stage 3 (selective) hardware package .
We all love to hate APR here but if you got a stock car and gonna run pump gas the dtr + tune + IC really is a great setup for fun and a extremely great smiles to dollar ratio.
Did you have an intercooler and used 93 octane gas?While I agree with your sentiments regarding the stage naming, that wasn't really the point of my thing. And I also am not trying to hate on APR. I was just asking if my car will see issues running this setup as it ran horrible with a smaller turbo and a tune. I guess I just didn't understand how this 400+hp setup could run on stock hardware if my little 300hp setup pulled huge timing