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Anyone have experience with updated Ohlins road and track kit?

HuntR

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Seattle
Thanks guys. My streets are pretty rough these days. I don’t see any point in going any lower than the Eibach kit really -just want an improvement in damping, more planted feel, and less body roll in the mountains. I’m actually fairly happy with the DCC and the 3 available modes, but It could be better. Most of my time is spent city driving, but that’s certainly not what I aspire to. I know quality shocks can transform a ride and have experienced it before. My other interest is a DSC/APR DCC controller, but not a ton on feedback on those. Mostly it looks time consuming to program and is not actually a plug and play solution. The DFV is what keeps me interested in Ohlins R&T.
 

xXDavidCXx

Autocross Champion
Location
AZ
Car(s)
2017 GTI SE DSG
Thanks guys. My streets are pretty rough these days. I don’t see any point in going any lower than the Eibach kit really -just want an improvement in damping, more planted feel, and less body roll in the mountains. I’m actually fairly happy with the DCC and the 3 available modes, but It could be better. Most of my time is spent city driving, but that’s certainly not what I aspire to. I know quality shocks can transform a ride and have experienced it before. My other interest is a DSC/APR DCC controller, but not a ton on feedback on those. Mostly it looks time consuming to program and is not actually a plug and play solution. The DFV is what keeps me interested in Ohlins R&T.
Koni Special Actives have similar tech and cost less. That's what I would buy for rough roads.
 

victorofhavoc

Autocross Champion
Location
Kansas City
The dcc twin tube shock will always be more comfortable than a monotube coil. That being said, a lot of discomfort in the suspension comes from top mounts. Factory rubber is best for comfort.

I've gone stock dcc > stock with 034 dynamic+ top mounts > mss track pack with top mounts > 034 springs with top mounts > full dcc delete with bilstein pss10 and top mounts. Currently I have about 2500$ in parts sitting in the garage to replace the lower control arms, swivels and put back the dcc shocks with custom rate ground control sleeves running 350/400# rates. This last change is all an effort to have the same alignment and firmness in the spring rate but get rid of the metal top mounts and monotube coil.

Having done all of this, I would not replace dcc with anything unless you plan to run 100tw tires or slicks where you'll need -3 to -4 camber to prevent edgewear on the tire. 2-300tw typically need -1 to -2 camber and that's a lot more street comfy as well.
 

HuntR

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Seattle
The dcc twin tube shock will always be more comfortable than a monotube coil. That being said, a lot of discomfort in the suspension comes from top mounts. Factory rubber is best for comfort.

I've gone stock dcc > stock with 034 dynamic+ top mounts > mss track pack with top mounts > 034 springs with top mounts > full dcc delete with bilstein pss10 and top mounts. Currently I have about 2500$ in parts sitting in the garage to replace the lower control arms, swivels and put back the dcc shocks with custom rate ground control sleeves running 350/400# rates. This last change is all an effort to have the same alignment and firmness in the spring rate but get rid of the metal top mounts and monotube coil.

Having done all of this, I would not replace dcc with anything unless you plan to run 100tw tires or slicks where you'll need -3 to -4 camber to prevent edgewear on the tire. 2-300tw typically need -1 to -2 camber and that's a lot more street comfy as well.
Yep. I'll be using stock top mounts. I have new LCA's with solid rubber bushings, Eurosport camber adjustable top hats currently (these provide .8deg neg or pos camber but they'll be replaced for std top hats and Whiteline balljoints for camber adjustment), Eurocode strut tower brace ( I installed these items recently ) and Whiteline front and rear ARB's. The turn in and steering feel has improved significantly--I should have done it years ago. I'll install the Ohlins kit if it ever gets f'in delivered. Whether I love it long time or not time will tell.
 

scrllock

Autocross Champion
Location
MI
Yep. I'll be using stock top mounts. I have new LCA's with solid rubber bushings, Eurosport camber adjustable top hats currently (these provide .8deg neg or pos camber but they'll be replaced for std top hats and Whiteline balljoints for camber adjustment), Eurocode strut tower brace ( I installed these items recently ) and Whiteline front and rear ARB's. The turn in and steering feel has improved significantly--I should have done it years ago. I'll install the Ohlins kit if it ever gets f'in delivered. Whether I love it long time or not time will tell.
IMO I'd keep the eurosport hats in favor of the whiteline balljoints. The Ohlins kit doesn't lower enough to really merit using them for the roll center correction, and the whiteline adjusters like to slip. Have had this happen to me 2 or 3 times now, same thing has happened to most of the people I personally know using them.
 

scrllock

Autocross Champion
Location
MI
About to pull my struts for new camber mounts. Anyone know if the bearing (25602-03) is worth replacing at regular intervals? I think mine's original to the kit, which has quite a few miles on it.
 

dood.

Drag Racing Champion
Location
Seattle
Car(s)
2017 GTI S DSG
I'm considering upping the rear spring rates in my car. Still a bit pushy with the 400/575 setup I have now.

Regarding front camber, I was trying out the Eurosport offset inserts with the OEM mounts along with CSS knuckles. I thought it would be a good solution for a street driven car without any added NVH. Got about -2.6 degrees of camber which I was very pleased with. Unfortunately as I was worried about, the offset angle did result in an issue. It seems that the Ohlins supplied upper spring bearing has separated on the outer side leading to some bad spring bind. After a track day, the passenger side adjuster came loose and I've been getting a constant popping noise up front.

Now to decide if I should get go all in on some Vorshlag plates or give up on tracking what was supposed to be my practical commuter car... @Mini7 , with the Vorshlag plates the upper spring bearing is included correct? I couldn't find a replacement for the Ohlins bearing online (PN 25602-02). I'll contact 3DM depending on what I decide to do.


View attachment 211463
I know this is an old post but figured I’d ask if any others have run into issues with the upper spring bearing failing with camber mounts.

I’ve been considering getting the Eurosport camber mounts to pair with my Öhlins, but this is concerning. Is this something unique to the Eurosport mounts?
 

IGM2019

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
MA
Just installed the ohlins VWSMU21S2 on my car along with 034 front camber mount and superpro endlinks. 1 finger gap in front and 2 in the rear. I was afraid it'll be too stiff and harsh considering the spring rate is doubled from stock but that's not the case. It rides very well and only a little firmer compared to stock. No more body roll and when turning it just turns and pulls you around the corner, very different feeling compared to stock.

Here are the rough measurements from middle of centercap to fender. The front install standard preload is 5mm to give 20mm lowering, I did about another 2 turns of preload so the height difference of 15mm is expected. The rear spec calls for 25-35mm and I set mine to 25mm which theoretically should give 20mm of lowering but seems like I only got 10mm.

Before Front: 343mm 343mm

After Front: 329mm 328mm

Before Rear: 352mm 351mm

After Rear: 342mm 344mm

Front lowered: 15mm

Rear lowered: 10mm


Got a few questions for the experts here:

1. I want to even out the rake a little. Is it fine to lower the rear some more? I know the ohlins shock doesn't have that much damper travel so seems like its not ideal to do that. I was thinking of raising the front a little more by adding some more preload.

2. When I had both endlinks disconnected from the shock, the stock sway bar did not freely move within it's bushings. If I press down on one end and let go it'll spring back to it's "normal" position. Is this expected? How would I set my endlinks to have no preload then if the bar itself has a neutral position that sits at. I've set the endlinks approximately around some length as stock for now.

3. Currently has the dampers at 7 from fullstiff all around as it came from the factory. How is everyone running their setup? Same all around, front softer than rear, front stiffer than rear?

ohlins.png
 
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scrllock

Autocross Champion
Location
MI
Just installed the ohlins VWSMU21S2 on my car along with 034 front camber mount and superpro endlinks. 1 finger gap in front and 2 in the rear. I was afraid it'll be too stiff and harsh considering the spring rate is doubled from stock but that's not the case. It rides very well and only a little firmer compared to stock. No more body roll and when turning it just turns and pulls you around the corner, very different feeling compared to stock.

Here are the rough measurements from middle of centercap to fender. The front install standard preload is 5mm to give 20mm lowering, I did about another 2 turns of preload so the height difference of 15mm is expected. The rear spec calls for 25-35mm and I set mine to 25mm which theoretically should give 20mm of lowering but seems like I only got 10mm.

Before Front: 343mm 343mm

After Front: 329mm 328mm

Before Rear: 352mm 351mm

After Rear: 342mm 344mm

Front lowered: 15mm

Rear lowered: 10mm


Got a few questions for the experts here:

1. I want to even out the rake a little. Is it fine to lower the rear some more? I know the ohlins shock doesn't have that much damper travel so seems like its not ideal to do that. I was thinking of raising the front a little more by adding some more preload.

2. When I had both endlinks disconnected from the shock, the stock sway bar did not freely move within it's bushings. If I press down on one end and let go it'll spring back to it's "normal" position. Is this expected? How would I set my endlinks to have no preload then if the bar itself has a neutral position that sits at. I've set the endlinks approximately around some length as stock for now.

3. Currently has the dampers at 7 from fullstiff all around as it came from the factory. How is everyone running their setup? Same all around, front softer than rear, front stiffer than rear?

View attachment 297943
1. I think you can get another 10mm out of the rear depending what you mean by 25-35mm. I wouldn't exceed their range personally.
2. Yes, that's normal, you should set the endlinks like this:

This is the correct order of operations for installing an adjustable-length end link:
1. Remove OEM end links.
2. Adjust new adjustable-length end links to match OEM end link length.
3. Install one new end link on one side of the car, tighten at suspension and at sway bar.
4. Install new end link on other side of the car, tighten only at suspension. Leave it loose from the sway bar.
5. Place vehicle on the ground with driver weight in car.
6. Adjust the length of the non-attached end link so it easily slips into sway bar without tension.
7. Tighten final end link portion to sway bar.

3. Depends on your tires and what you're doing. I like 17 front, 15 rear on street tires on the road. 10 front, 8 rear on track tires. But it really depends on what you want in terms of ride feel, rotatability, etc.
 

IGM2019

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
MA
Thanks @scrllock, I'll follow that when I do my alignment. For adjustment in the rear I've set X to 25mm, which seems like the "lowest" position possible and should have lowered my car 20mm. So if I adjust it less than to what it's set now to lower the rear some more then it would seem it's out of their recommended adjustment.

1705372073813.png
 
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