An Attempt at HDR, and it....

[pbfoot]

ya i kept hearing it mentioned, but i didn't know it was a free download-awesome.

 

[omegach]

well mayyyyyyyybe thats cuz you shoot on nikon...:iono:

j/k you have good stuff man, I like your macro work... +watched!:thumbsup:

thanks buddy. seriously, peeps on deviantart are tough... i'd be happy if i average 20 views per deviation. :bellyroll:

 

[tasteofink8733]

The picture was taken in philadelphia, its not setup or anything it was just some random kid playing violin with a scream costume on. My friend says he was really good and had a big crowd around him.

 

[phunkstar]

im not a photo geek but hdr is sex lol nice pics everyone

 

[MKVCrowing]

The picture was taken in philadelphia, its not setup or anything it was just some random kid playing violin with a scream costume on. My friend says he was really good and had a big crowd around him.

hahah nice.. I was just worried I was missing some higher purpose.

 

[ShadowGLI]

I tried using photoMATIX last night on a random pic of crap on my bureau... AWESOME... I can't wait to take pics of my car to try this with. :biggrin:

 

[FIJIParisi]

tried it on my car last night... not even worth posting...

it was a 20 image composite with photomatix but it was still way too dark...

I think what it made me realize is that for dark images (night time shots of cars with lights on, etc where things will be underexposed behind the light) you need more images on the +2 and up side.... and for images like the sky where things may be overexposed you need more images on the -2 and under side.... sound about right?

 

[ShadowGLI]

tried it on my car last night... not even worth posting...

it was a 20 image composite with photomatix but it was still way too dark...

I think what it made me realize is that for dark images (night time shots of cars with lights on, etc where things will be underexposed behind the light) you need more images on the +2 and up side.... and for images like the sky where things may be overexposed you need more images on the -2 and under side.... sound about right?

I tried mine with 8 images originally, I pulled out the two lowest and the one highest, and just played with settings. Came out great..

you may have taken TOO low of images ( you need to make sure your darkest image still has detail otherwise you are just adding a "black" later to the mix, which will do no good.

 

[omegach]

maybe just play around w/ photomatix a little more

i had to fiddle around w/ a ton of different combinations before i got something that looked decent; i'm still not really sure what i'm doing when it comes to photomatix rofl

 

[o.nino18]

can you do these kinds of shots with a regular digital camera. or do you need a high end one?

i have a nikon cool pix...jaja

 

[Turbo]

tried it on my car last night... not even worth posting...

it was a 20 image composite with photomatix but it was still way too dark...

I think what it made me realize is that for dark images (night time shots of cars with lights on, etc where things will be underexposed behind the light) you need more images on the +2 and up side.... and for images like the sky where things may be overexposed you need more images on the -2 and under side.... sound about right?

20 images is waaaay too many. There is almost certainly not that much dynamic range (DR) in your subject (unless you're trying to photograph arc welding in a coal mine).

Refer to the "Determining the Exposure Sequence" section of the HDR tutorial I posted earlier in this thread for more info on this.

 

[Turbo]

can you do these kinds of shots with a regular digital camera. or do you need a high end one?

i have a nikon cool pix...jaja

At the very least you need a camera that will let you adjust the exposure value (EV) or has AEB (auto exposure bracketing). Some point-n-shoot cameras may have AEB or at least a +/- setting for EV. So, if your CoolPix has one of those settings then yes you could use it.

 

[TOE_FAST]

Just the ability to manually set exposure is the minimum you need. EV and Auto Bracketing are nicities but not a requirement to change exposure increments.

 

[Turbo]

Very true. But my thinking was that a point-n-shoot would more likely have an EV setting that it would any kind of manual mode.

 

[TOE_FAST]

Im pretty sure the upper level Nikon coolpix has manual shutter speed and F stop, iso settings. but it depends on the model, there are some consumer grade coolpix cameras (like the L15) that are so basic that they dont have full manual settings, which is ironic to me since all older cameras used to have nothing but manual settings. if its a slightly higher end model like the coolpix P5100 it does have manual settings. I am uncertain if a coolpix without manual control would have an EV control, but i would think not since they are essentially the same exact thing. 1/250th of a second at F8 is equivalent to EV14 so it would make sense to put in manual control on a consumer camera rather than an EV setting?? ( anyone with a camera like this please chime in??? ) - pro cameras have manual control of course but also have an EV range so they can make fine adjustments in values of 1/3rds 1/2 or 1 increments. but, i dont own any consumer cameras so this is just my own understanding and experience im trying to offer here.