Thanks Bass lover. That’s a top explanation This is what confused me a little. Why are all these YouTube videos showing people doing 100% deadener on Their doors?! Dynamat Xtreme etc... will just prevent resonance, so you only need 25%+ as you said? These folks are using it as though it’s a sound insulator?!!
I think I’ve enough on the drivers door now to proceed with applying the Noico closed cell product. My only issue is where to apply it. Seeing different opinions in different videos.
1. inside the door itself, on the outer skin?
2. On the door inner skin on top of the Dynamat?
3. on the back of the door trim panel/card?
if the correct place is 2, then do I stick it on top of all the electronic modules and wire harnesses on the door? Pic below before Dynamat applied...
View attachment 194289
Thanks again for your views/info. ☺
No carpet at all. It went like this.. bare metal > spare tire > floor board > floor linerIt’s an enjoyable project alright. Just so time consuming. If you have a garage and no need to move the car for days it would be great. I don’t have a garage
did you not have any carpet at all?! Or just no underlay under the black carpet?
yeah absolutely MVL is the one that adds TONS of weight when considering its 1lbs per SF to be effective, but my research and experience with "sound deadening" cars mlv is the item that creates the sound barrier between the inside and outside of the car.Personally I would be concerned about weight in all of this.
In my experience with my camper van a little rattle trap goes a very long way and it only need be placed in smaller pieces strategically in the largest "open" panel areas.
And I've already mentioned the thinsulate, but its much lighter than some of the other options.