7+ years on VWR springs

[avenali312]

I read it too but I'm trying to understand the mechanism for the failure and what actually happens to cause a loss of damping is really my question.

I tried to dive into this more because I'm curious now... Oil viscosity might come into play as per this article by Monroe (obviously a manufacturer that wants you to replace your stuff more frequently). Maybe this explains how all the oil could remain in the damper but still not work as well? I'd love to read a more tech article if anyone has one.

https://www.monroe.com/technical-resources/shocks-101/what-causes-shocks-struts-to-wear-out.html

 

[tigeo]

I tried to dive into this more because I'm curious now... Oil viscosity might come into play as per this article by Monroe (obviously a manufacturer that wants you to replace your stuff more frequently). Maybe this explains how all the oil could remain in the damper but still not work as well? I'd love to read a more tech article if anyone has one.

https://www.monroe.com/technical-resources/shocks-101/what-causes-shocks-struts-to-wear-out.html

View attachment 259130

Wow and I appreciate you wanting to learn more - I just always am curious about things and folks often don't spend anytime looking into anything vs. regurgitating common things they read online. That itself would account for loss of damping without leaks. Lowering springs have higher rates but we are not talking by much - they have to be shorter or else you would just be bottomed out all the time under the weight of the car. I figure most are ~100 pounds/inch at most more than stock. When dampers are "made for lowering springs" like Bilstein B8s, they are just sport dampers with a shorter body (1" to be exact) vs. the B6 to hold the shorter spring in/maintain some preload. However, with that said, the springs on my were fine on stock lenght dampers. Koni Sports are for either stock or lowering springs. The shortness of the spring to me isn't the issue, it's the higher rate so for example, on your hatch, this is like me pushing hard when I open it against those dampers vs. lightly...at least this makes sense to me....and I can see where that would wear out the hatch struts faster.

 

[Baka]

Good find, I always wondered what exactly happens. I've definitely seen some dampers that haven't popped or leaked, that are absolutely flogged.

I tried to dive into this more because I'm curious now... Oil viscosity might come into play as per this article by Monroe (obviously a manufacturer that wants you to replace your stuff more frequently). Maybe this explains how all the oil could remain in the damper but still not work as well? I'd love to read a more tech article if anyone has one.

https://www.monroe.com/technical-resources/shocks-101/what-causes-shocks-struts-to-wear-out.html

View attachment 259130

 

[George Ab]

I too have had my VWR (blue) springs on since early 2016. Struts started to indicate issues about 25K miles later. Went with Koni yellows. Quite happy with the setup.

 

[bentin]

Just as an aside, but I change the oil in my bicycle shock and fork every 1k miles. It makes a noticeable difference and they never lose oil volume. I’m sure car shocks could benefit from a fluid change, but none really have that option that I know of.

 

[Chogokin]

Just as an aside, but I change the oil in my bicycle shock and fork every 1k miles. It makes a noticeable difference and they never lose oil volume. I’m sure car shocks could benefit from a fluid change, but none really have that option that I know of.

There are struts that can be sent back to the manufacturer to be rebuilt.

I'll replace the fork seals and oil in my fork and seals in the rear shock on my mountain bikes once a year.

 

[tigeo]

There are struts that can be sent back to the manufacturer to be rebuilt.

I'll replace the fork seals and oil in my fork and seals in the rear shock on my mountain bikes once a year.

Same, I rebuild both fork/shock on my mtb once a year.

 

[bayarea7]

I too have had my VWR (blue) springs on since early 2016. Struts started to indicate issues about 25K miles later. Went with Koni yellows. Quite happy with the setup.

Nice! Curious what issues you experienced exactly?

 

[George Ab]

Nice! Curious what issues you experienced exactly?

The rears and front to lesser extent would not stop the rebound after the bounce. The body would would continue to oscillate after a bump.

 

[avenali312]

Just as an aside, but I change the oil in my bicycle shock and fork every 1k miles. It makes a noticeable difference and they never lose oil volume. I’m sure car shocks could benefit from a fluid change, but none really have that option that I know of.

I'll replace the fork seals and oil in my fork and seals in the rear shock on my mountain bikes once a year.

Same, I rebuild both fork/shock on my mtb once a year.

I don't think the shock or forks on my 2012 Trek Fuel EX 8 have ever been rebuilt

 

[tigeo]

I don't think the shock or forks on my 2012 Trek Fuel EX 8 have ever been rebuilt

And I'm sure they reward you with stellar performance!

 

[avenali312]

And I'm sure they reward you with stellar performance!

It's the only full suspension bike I've ever ridden, so it's one of those don't-know-if-it-could-be-any-better scenarios haha.

 

[bentin]

It's the only full suspension bike I've ever ridden, so it's one of those don't-know-if-it-could-be-any-better scenarios haha.

I have a rigid single speed, flush the brakes every few years, throw some chain lube on it if you think about it, it's great. I just snapped the replacement UDH on my dual suspension just trying to torque it to the spec they listed. Off to buy another and under torque it.

 

[Chogokin]

I don't think the shock or forks on my 2012 Trek Fuel EX 8 have ever been rebuilt

Your bike hates you.

 

[avenali312]

Your bike hates you.

Probably hates me more that I don't have enough time to ride it