mwoodski
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Not Fancy CT, USA
- Car(s)
- 17 Golf SW 4mo
Page 7 and I still don't understand what these are for. Show me something cool or useful that isn't a holder for a glue stick
7
3D Printer & C.A.D. Thread
- Thread starter GolNat
- Start date
dtfd
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Massachusetts
- Car(s)
- MK7.5 GTI
If you want a good surface finish you want to print in ABS, and you to smooth using acetone vapor
https://all3dp.com/2/abs-acetone-smoothing-3d-print-vapor-smoothing/
In terms of useful parts.....I'm literally in the process right now of printing a RS3 style brake cooling deflector for the GTI. I'll let you know how it goes.
uglybastard
Autocross Champion
- Location
- GOML
- Car(s)
- Mk6 GTI
Someone should make a 3d rendering of the cornflake finger
I get it. I think it's a nifty thing to do, seems interesting, but all the shit looks like you got something custom made from the dollar store.
dtfd
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Massachusetts
- Car(s)
- MK7.5 GTI
Looks like my arrogance (stupidity) finally caught up with me. Left a print about two hour in that looked fine...came back to this. Mind you this was meant to be 100% infill parts.
If you look closely you can see how the first layers went on pretty damn well...and the rest of the layers obviously didn't. Took my damn bowden tube with it. I did notice some irregularity with the width of the filament after I got part of it extracted...not sure if thats a filament roll issue or a being compressed in the tube issue. Either way some of the thicker portions refused to be extracted out or pushed through so I'll be replacing the bowden tube instead.
If you look closely you can see how the first layers went on pretty damn well...and the rest of the layers obviously didn't. Took my damn bowden tube with it. I did notice some irregularity with the width of the filament after I got part of it extracted...not sure if thats a filament roll issue or a being compressed in the tube issue. Either way some of the thicker portions refused to be extracted out or pushed through so I'll be replacing the bowden tube instead.
AzteCypher
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- Austin, TX
- Car(s)
- Mk7 Golf R
Ouch. At least it seems easy to fix. I've got some bowden tube I've been meaning to install. This is a good reminder.
dtfd
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Massachusetts
- Car(s)
- MK7.5 GTI
why not? I wanted to get a prusa mini as my starter printer but they were backordered almost 2 months so I got the ender 3 v2 neo instead.
dtfd
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Massachusetts
- Car(s)
- MK7.5 GTI
I think I did a bad thing.
I got a kit to replace the bowden tube and it came with a new all metal extruder. Figured I might as well swap the extruder (I opted not to swap the gear attached to the motor) and get another test print going. Tried to feed through filament and it was fine up to a point....and then it got jammed again.
Something dawned on me, when the initial jam happened I had some loose PLA that came with the printer (no roll). After I removed the bowden tube from the hot end I jammed some of that PLA down to push through the jammed filament and pulled it back out through the top of the hot end when it was all hot. After everything cooled down I put in the new bowden tube and pushed it all the way down into the hot end. I do NOT have an all metal hot end so my bowden tube actually terminates in the hot end near the nozzle rather than in the heat sink so it needs to sit perfectly flush in the hot end or filament would melt between the tube and metal of the hot end and cause more jams/issues down the line. When I did my PLA push through/pull I basically guaranteed I'm going to have that issue didn't I?
How do I fix this now? Should I removed the nozzle and try to pull out any crap I can from the bottom? Should I try a "cold pull" where I jam the PLA back down through the top at heat....let it cool down with the PLA in there...and then pull it through the top once it's solid again and hope nothing breaks? I don't want to deal with swapping over to an all-metal hot end just yet so I'd like to keep using my current one for now. I'll also swap the brass filament gear on that extruder motor just because I might have worn down those teeth by now.
I got a kit to replace the bowden tube and it came with a new all metal extruder. Figured I might as well swap the extruder (I opted not to swap the gear attached to the motor) and get another test print going. Tried to feed through filament and it was fine up to a point....and then it got jammed again.
Something dawned on me, when the initial jam happened I had some loose PLA that came with the printer (no roll). After I removed the bowden tube from the hot end I jammed some of that PLA down to push through the jammed filament and pulled it back out through the top of the hot end when it was all hot. After everything cooled down I put in the new bowden tube and pushed it all the way down into the hot end. I do NOT have an all metal hot end so my bowden tube actually terminates in the hot end near the nozzle rather than in the heat sink so it needs to sit perfectly flush in the hot end or filament would melt between the tube and metal of the hot end and cause more jams/issues down the line. When I did my PLA push through/pull I basically guaranteed I'm going to have that issue didn't I?
How do I fix this now? Should I removed the nozzle and try to pull out any crap I can from the bottom? Should I try a "cold pull" where I jam the PLA back down through the top at heat....let it cool down with the PLA in there...and then pull it through the top once it's solid again and hope nothing breaks? I don't want to deal with swapping over to an all-metal hot end just yet so I'd like to keep using my current one for now. I'll also swap the brass filament gear on that extruder motor just because I might have worn down those teeth by now.
AzteCypher
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- Austin, TX
- Car(s)
- Mk7 Golf R
I would try a cold pull and then remove the nozzle to inspect everything afterwards. Make sure there's nothing else stuck in there.
For the price of a Prusa I could get a nice CoreXY like Corprin has and get a sonic pad maybe. Or something new like a Bambu Lab P1P but with it being proprietary and new it worries me a bit. I do think eventually I would like to modify a printer and the Prusa would be a good base for that.
I would pull it apart to minimize breaking anything. I took mine apart and had to use a lighter to heat some filament that had gotten stuck between the tube and hot end (I have the same setup as you on my Neptune 2S). Chased the thread with a tap and put it back together.
Ended up getting the Prusa. Guy was super cool and actually teaches 3D printing at University of DE. He said it’s more reliable than the thousand dollar Ultimaker’s they have on campus. Gave me his number in case I have issues or need some 3D printing advice. Also got a bunch of filament, a webcam and spare nozzles. Gave me $60 back from what he was asking for it.
jawndropper
Drag Racing Champion
- Location
- Tysons, VA
- Car(s)
- 2017 GTI Sport
Coinslot cover is done. Still not perfect, but I am pretty happy with this. I wanted to make a second blank version but I cant figure out how to remove the logo now lol.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5847754
Last edited:
Is the logo raised?
In Tinkercad you would set your drawing plane to the surface that the letters come out of. Drop a rectangle/square big enough to cover the logo and make it a hole. This will delete all objects in the square that are flush and higher then the plane.
Turned out good
In Tinkercad you would set your drawing plane to the surface that the letters come out of. Drop a rectangle/square big enough to cover the logo and make it a hole. This will delete all objects in the square that are flush and higher then the plane.
Turned out good