shortyb
Autocross Newbie
- Location
- Upstate SC
- Car(s)
- Felon Taxi,Dad Wagon
CAD and 3D printing parts may be the future. But GD, it can NEVER replace this kind of craftsmanship or beauty. Every time I look at these pieces of stainless artistry I cry.
Thanks for the positive feedback!
I can't commit to pricing yet. If the part starts to sag due to heat (that is a coolant line running across the top of it after all) I will have to switch to a slightly more expensive material that's better suited to the heat. I also didn't have any on hand and I was to excited to order it and wait.
Right now, the raw material is ~$35 for one duct. Plus a 21-22 hour build time/setup. Build time (how long it takes to print) is what makes 3D printing so costly. I ran the part through Xometry.com (a great resource if you can make models) and it was ~$270-300. Obviously this is ridiculous and their pricing model is more aimed at prototypes for big companies than someone who wants a cheap part made.
I *think* that $150 should be do-able without making it unprofitable. But I need to run the duct for a little while before I'm confident in the material.
Why not use nylon 6 print material? it's basically the material glock lowers are made of.
Have you looked into using your 3D piece to make a silicon mold, then making, I’m gonna say “resin” based piece.
I doubt resin would actually hold up. I’m not sure of the actual material needed to make that happen, but that would lower your cost and up your production. If you could figure out the material to actually mold out.
and that's exactly what i was thinking. as for someone mentioning resin/mold, it'd be easiest probably to make a fiberglass mold and start making it from carbon fiber prepreg (of all things), that is if you were thinking to make high fidelity/high reproducibility version from the 3D mold.How about some hot OEM plus looking action?View attachment 183991View attachment 183992View attachment 183993
This is neat.
What kind of sizing are we looking at?
and that's exactly what i was thinking. as for someone mentioning resin/mold, it'd be easiest probably to make a fiberglass mold and start making it from carbon fiber prepreg (of all things), that is if you were thinking to make high fidelity/high reproducibility version from the 3D mold.
Thanks!
What do you mean by sizing?
The filter is a big 4” inlet, more surface area than the flat filter by 20ish %
Ah! The tube is 4” at the filter with a nice radius and as gentle a curve into the 3” stock tube as I could make and clear the mounting screw.You basically covered it. Flange size, filter size and tubing.
Without knowing what he's using to print exactly other than a filament printer, Nylon 6 has more technical demands from printing and is less likely to be filament printed.