Mine did this as I rolled it off the lot. I laughed and had it reset.
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That’s what I thought, but you know how dealers are. I’m buying a maintenance kit to flush myself soon anyways because dealers across the board are bogus.I'd have asked for an oil change honestly and you might want to get that done. Oil sitting for a year with minimal movement is going to have higher moisture in it than fresh oil. A dealer should have comped that.
When I purchased my 2018 replacement earlier this year, I requested exactly this. Car had a July 2018 build date and mostly sat idle waiting to be purchased. I also requested a brake fluid flush since that also picks up water while sitting idle. The dealer was happy to do both for me.I'd have asked for an oil change honestly and you might want to get that done. Oil sitting for a year with minimal movement is going to have higher moisture in it than fresh oil. A dealer should have comped that.
IIRC someone did an analysis on BITOG and it came up without one or two of the additives that are SUPPOSED to be in the factory fill Castrol. the thought was they used a little 'cheaper' oil that what's on the shelf.When I purchased my 2018 replacement earlier this year, I requested exactly this. Car had a July 2018 build date and mostly sat idle waiting to be purchased. I also requested a brake fluid flush since that also picks up water while sitting idle. The dealer was happy to do both for me.
Can someone confirm that the factory oil in the engine on delivery is different compared to regular 502/504/508/etc. oil? Someone mentioned TDI's earlier, but does VW use a specific oil for break-in that remains with the car until its first oil change?
I'll be taking my factory oil until 10,000 miles too. Your first oil change is due at 10,000 miles DO NOT change it early! Oil analysis supports 10,000 miles as being realistic for a first change interval. Wear metals will remain at safe levels during this entire first interval thanks to the initial run-in and flush at the factory before the engine was installed in your car. I have done several tests with Blackstone Oil Analysis and there's always been plenty of life left in the oil and levels have been normal. No need to change it early at 3,000 or 5,000 miles. That's just wasting perfectly good oil. When I had a TDI this was posted over in the TDI forum by a very knowledgeable member named Drivbiwire....."When your engine was first produced the motor was placed in a test cell and "Run-in" by a computer run dyno. The motor after the run-in was DRAINED OF ALL ITS FLUIDS (Oil, Coolant etc), the filters were replaced and a unique break-in oil was installed to promote a proper break-in once installed in the car as well as to protect the engine from corrosion during shipping to final assembly.
The "Break-in oil", YES VW does use a specially formulated "Break-In" oil formulated under an internal "TL" specification and produced by Fuchs. The oil is a group IV synthetic 5w30 formulated to comply with the LowSAPS VW507.00 requirements as well as the TL specifications for break-in. The oil is intended to allow a controlled rate of wear while protecting the engine and allowing the internal parts to seat proplerly during the engines first 10,000 road miles." Obviously our GTI's are diff than the TDI's and use diff oil but I still like to follow this same thought process / procedure. People may disagree and that's okay but I like this method.
The mk7 doesn't come with break in oil, so I don't understand your question.I would like to know if this is true for our model. Never heard of a break in oil that remains in the car for 10k miles. Any I have used are a few hundred miles only as they are there to 'somewhat' accelerate wear so that everything wears in quickly and evenly. If they did do a run-in and drain the fluids I have no doubt they used a special break in oil.
I did replace my oil early at 1000kms with 0w20 as I believe there is nothing good in there that needs to be there. I didn't notice anything unusual (I used a vacuum pump) but in the past I've pulled out lots of 'build' materials such as gasket and silicon bits. If you ever drop your pan just take a look at the pick-up tube screen. Luckily I have not had this stalling issue yet (fingers crossed) at 7000kms.
Good to note when I go in on Friday. Yeah mine just suddenly cuts out, no shuddering. This week it was stalling at least times a day, up until yesterday when it didn’t happen at all. Of course ?Just checking back in with you guys. My '19 GLI has gone over 500 miles and almost 3 weeks without a single stall. Previously, it was stalling every other day, often several times a day, for the first 2 weeks of ownership.
Most of these cars are experiencing rough idle, still-moving stalls related to timing issues. There is no fix for that problem. If you have a rough idle when you stall, stop reading now.
My car did not present a rough idle and exclusively stalled the moment it came to a complete stop, as if the ignition had been cut off. If these are your symptoms, it is worth asking your dealer about start/stop coding. I know that a regional rep said it's not the cause... and he's right; start/stop is not the cause of the widespread rough idles and timing problems. But if you are having frequent stalls without a rough idle only at a complete stop, take the 10 minutes to have your dealer check for erroneously-activated Pr-codes for start/stop. After 3 weeks and over 500 miles, I am confident that start/stop coding was largely responsible for my particular stalls. Maybe that's just a GLI problem, but again, it's worth 10 minutes if you don't have a rough idle.