2018 GTI SE: How would you mod with $5k? $10k? $15k?

[El_bigote_AJ]

DTR has excellent cost-benefit IMO.

You can spend $2-3k more (factor in tune, access port, hardware and fueling) chasing 100 more whp with a hybrid/BT setup, or spend $500-1k more to make 30-50 less whp but with slightly quicker spooling with an IS38.

Some folks don’t want or need to chase hp figures down the rabbit hole of diminishing returns. And honestly, from the figures I’ve seen, I’d put the DTR with fueling into the bucket of diminishing returns too.

Back to the cost, unless you literally have an ongoing monthly budget for car mods on top of maintenance, it doesn’t makes sense to factor the cost of a major car modification over years of ownership - plus by that logic you will be able to purchase the mods, what, when you’re ready to sell the car? Some folks have a total amount they are willing to spend on extras, and you gotta respect that.

You’re confusing the logic with the “saving up” vs “saving money” based on product selection… but even if it was saving up - your math is off .

That’s perfectly fine to feel your dtr car is fast enough for you, (and I get it was in your budget) but there are still plenty of us hybrid guys who still don’t consider our cars “fast” as it’s all about perspective, in Vegas thinking you’re gonna run with “lots of v8 boys” will quickly humble you as many of the Camaros, mustangs, chargers, Chevy trucks and even suv jeeps that are willing to run on a highway pull are just as modded as us and started with a much faster car already I’ve been pulled on by more than one 4 door heavy pig dodges unfortunately…

 

[CarbonDub]

My bad then, didn’t read the thread. I was responding to 2 specific comments, and only spoke about the DTR because I have experience with it and homeboy literally summoned me with a tag lol.

 

[GTI Jake]

Wait, why not? I thought it was cheap.

Cheap is kind of irrelevant when you get to the hybrids IMO. If you spend 5-10k on supporting mods & top it off with a ok-ish turbo to save a few hundred you’re really doing yourself a disservice.

Be honest with your goals, and buy the turbo that meets them. I haven’t, but a lot of guys chiming in here have bought several turbos which is never cheaper than buy once cry once.

I'd just buy a better car

He came from a M4 IIRC, “better” is subjective based on your needs for a daily driver all around’er.

MQB cars (modded properly) are insanely good at everything. “Better” all out performance isn’t necessarily better overall when it’s a daily

 

[Acadia18]

So first you go with a tune, then you upgrade to a hybrid. You try out 3 different tunes and create a 10000 post thread. Then as soon as it's perfect, you sell it and get a high mileage R. Then you sell that and get the exact same car but with lower mileage.

 

[GTI Jake]

I’ve ridden in & consulted on a ton of hybrid cars.

The end all be all answer for 400+ hp without building a very expensive fuel system & or bottom end is the Vortex Standard & HPFP.

420~450whp depending on the quality of premium gas (no fuel for E in that setup), OEM+ drivability. It’s not lagging forever or knocking the tires off with proper supporting mods, it’s just the next step is20 stage 2 < is38 < Vortex STD/HPFP.

Everyone gets all romantic about their favorite hybrid, but I don’t have one so I’m not playing favorites (is38 here).

 

[EpicTech]

I’ve ridden in & consulted on a ton of hybrid cars.

The end all be all answer for 400+ hp without building a very expensive fuel system & or bottom end is the Vortex Standard & HPFP.

420~450whp depending on the quality of premium gas (no fuel for E in that setup), OEM+ drivability. It’s not lagging forever or knocking the tires off with proper supporting mods, it’s just the next step is20 stage 2 < is38 < Vortex STD/HPFP.

Everyone gets all romantic about their favorite hybrid, but I don’t have one so I’m not playing favorites (is38 here).

This is what I was thinking for a true 400+. Isn't the general consensus for that power level a Vortex Standard & HPFP. Every page I have read on here, that is what seems to be the answer.

 

[CarbonDub]

… but even if it was saving up - your math is off .

A bit off topic but since you wanted to call it out…

Vortex Standard (cheapest option, no fueling) = +400 whp
- Turbo - $1,619
- Downpipe (budget brand) - $400
- ECU tune + Cobb AP (single fuel) = $1,130
- TCU tune = $400
- Total = $3,549 + labor

Garrett Powermax GT2260 (no fueling) = +400 whp
- Turbo = $1350
- Downpipe (budget brand) = $400
- ECU tune = $800
- TCU tune = $500
- Total = $3,050 + labor

OE IS38 (no fueling) = +360 whp
- Turbo (OEM IHI) - $1040
- Downpipe (budget brand) - $400
- ECU tune + Cobb AP (average price) = $1075
- TCU tune = $500
- Total = $3,015 + labor

APR DTR6054 (no fueling) = ~400 whp
- Turbo kit = $1500
- ECU tune = included
- TCU tune = $500
- Total = $2000 + labor

And those are generous budget prices too, don’t suspect many are running the Vortex without a HPFP - difference only goes up from there. So what’d I miss with my math?

 

[GTI Jake]

This is what I was thinking for a true 400+. Isn't the general consensus for that power level a Vortex Standard & HPFP. Every page I have read on here, that is what seems to be the answer.

Correct, none of the other options listed hit that mark.

Is38, Powermax, DTR all come up short on 400whp in the real world (1/4mile trap speed is the ultimate answer to BS inflated crank HP dyno sheets.

There’s a big hurt feelings gap to be had if a “400hp” car lines up against a 400+whp car & when you tally up all the supporting mods (especially if you’re buying good quality parts) the cost difference in turbos is minimal.

There’s always gonna be a guy on the internet using full e85 & a recklessly aggressive tune to say X turbo is capable of 4XXhp, but I don’t consider the average Mk7 owner to be risking it like that.

 

[EpicTech]

Correct, none of the other options listed hit that mark.

Is38, Powermax, DTR all come up short on 400whp in the real world (1/4mile trap speed is the ultimate answer to BS inflated crank HP dyno sheets.

There’s a big hurt feelings gap to be had if a “400hp” car lines up against a 400+whp car & when you tally up all the supporting mods (especially if you’re buying good quality parts) the cost difference in turbos is minimal.

There’s always gonna be a guy on the internet using full e85 & a recklessly aggressive tune to say X turbo is capable of 4XXhp, but I don’t consider the average Mk7 owner to be risking it like that.

Yea my IS38 swap OS tune feels short of 400, even with upgraded IC & charge pipes, intake etc. However I know I have to be extremely close to it according to butt dyno. I need another dyno day lol.

 

[Nineeightyone]

Yea my IS38 swap OS tune feels short of 400, even with upgraded IC & charge pipes, intake etc. However I know I have to be extremely close to it according to butt dyno. I need another dyno day lol.

Is your IS38 an OEM, or one of the "OEM+" ones? How do you feel about it for a weekend driver/canyon car? I'm really leaning hard on an EQT Stage 2 IS38+ and stopping there, but I've been trying to get some input from other IS38 GTIs.

 

[GTI Jake]

Yea my IS38 swap OS tune feels short of 400, even with upgraded IC & charge pipes, intake etc. However I know I have to be extremely close to it according to butt dyno. I need another dyno day lol.

I tell everyone my is38 is 360whp.

Has an intake, inlet pipe, charge pipes & TBE. Never been on a dyno, but even the biggest heart breaker dyno out there I’d feel confident it hits that mark.

Those parts are all just par for the course, and helping with power under the curve along with IAT, lower drive pressure & EGT which equals long term reliability. A is38 making 400whp is HOT & as a result hard on everything.

 

[manu97]

A bit off topic but since you wanted to call it out…

Vortex Standard (cheapest option, no fueling) = +400 whp
- Turbo - $1,619
- Downpipe (budget brand) - $400
- ECU tune + Cobb AP (single fuel) = $1,130
- TCU tune = $400
- Total = $3,549 + labor

Garrett Powermax GT2260 (no fueling) = +400 whp
- Turbo = $1350
- Downpipe (budget brand) = $400
- ECU tune = $800
- TCU tune = $500
- Total = $3,050 + labor

OE IS38 (no fueling) = +360 whp
- Turbo (OEM IHI) - $1040
- Downpipe (budget brand) - $400
- ECU tune + Cobb AP (average price) = $1075
- TCU tune = $500
- Total = $3,015 + labor

APR DTR6054 (no fueling) = ~400 whp
- Turbo kit = $1500
- ECU tune = included
- TCU tune = $500
- Total = $2000 + labor

And those are generous budget prices too, don’t suspect many are running the Vortex without a HPFP - difference only goes up from there. So what’d I miss with my math?

The problem with this is that you're assuming a brand new AP, and no resale value from it.

Realistically, if you're going Vortex, and you buy a used, DSG unlocked AP (around 7-800), and a used HPFP (around 3-400), then you've got about 430 wheel, and the cost would just be for a custom tune (500) + a DSG tune (75 when bundled). Math would then be 1619 + 400 + 1375 + 400 - 100(Discount for custom tune when buying new Vortex) = 3694. And when you take away the resale value of both the HPFP and AP, you're really at 3694 - 300 - 700 = 2694. And that's assuming pretty rough prices both ways on the AP and HPFP.

If you really make it an apples to apples comparison, and do stock DP on both, then it's an even closer comparison - 2294. Missed quite a bit with your math.

 

[EpicTech]

Is your IS38 an OEM, or one of the "OEM+" ones? How do you feel about it for a weekend driver/canyon car? I'm really leaning hard on an EQT Stage 2 IS38+ and stopping there, but I've been trying to get some input from other IS38 GTIs.

Mine is from a low mileage Audi S3 that was totaled. I drive my GTI every day, to work, all over Texas, and back home to Louisiana to see friends occasionally on weekends. I always look forward to driving it as its just such a good balance where I (and Diggs) have it now. I can drive briskly through twisties, or it can be an interstate missile, providing traffic is light and the radar stays quiet lol. I still get good mpg, mid to high 20's city, and cruising at 75 it says 30mpg. One of the reasons for my current seat project is so I can strap in and enjoy the car even more. I also plan on raising the coilovers about an inch and getting meatier versions of my Conti DW06's for some extra grip. Adding a RSB and moog endlinks after I finish moving and get the car setup in the garage, so I'm sure that will help.

Have you ridden in an IS38 GTI yet? It's quite amusing. My buddy has a 17 Golf R EQT tuned on OEM IS38 and I pull on him from a 60 roll. Must be the GTI's different gearing.

 

[CarbonDub]

The problem with this is that you're assuming a brand new AP, and no resale value from it.

Realistically, if you're going Vortex, and you buy a used, DSG unlocked AP (around 7-800), and a used HPFP (around 3-400), then you've got about 430 wheel, and the cost would just be for a custom tune (500) + a DSG tune (75 when bundled). Math would then be 1619 + 400 + 1375 + 400 - 100(Discount for custom tune when buying new Vortex) = 3694. And when you take away the resale value of both the HPFP and AP, you're really at 3694 - 300 - 700 = 2694. And that's assuming pretty rough prices both ways on the AP and HPFP.

If you really make it an apples to apples comparison, and do stock DP on both, then it's an even closer comparison - 2294. Missed quite a bit with your math.

Resale value of parts? lol… this is so not apples-to-apples. Y’all are drunk, I’m going home.

 

[manu97]

Resale value of parts? lol… this is so not apples-to-apples. Y’all are drunk, I’m going home.

...an AP? Which is easily resold??? Vs the APR tune which you can't? Feel free to go home lol