GOLFMK8
GOLFMK7
GOLFMK6
GOLFMKV

2017 Mk7 Autobahn GTI DSG Night Blue

bluedoggiant

Go Kart Newbie
Location
MD/GA
Decided to do one of these. It will take a second for all photos to load. I wrote this in the hopes it helps inspire someone who gets their hands on one of these in the future.

In December 2016 I took VW up on their buyback option for my fully loaded 2013 mk6 2-door TDI with Tech Package. Ended right up in a 2017 Mk7 Autobahn GTI DSG with an October 2016 build date in Puebla Mexico. This came with PP and DCC standard. In summary, the goal of my build was to create an aesthetic similar to that of a euro Golf R, with the refined FWD performance of a Clubsport S.

IMG_3674.JPG
IMG_3532.JPG
IMG_3536.JPG
IMG_3482.JPG


First order of business, and in fact ordered before signing the dealership paperwork, were Euro R tail lights from BEC Autoparts, using their harness that accurately only illuminates the outer tails under braking. This is a safety feature, some other harnesses illuminate all 4 tail lights when braking. Other business within the first month of ownership:

  • Original OBD11
  • Tint, I went with Suntek Carpon XP, 35% on the sides and 20% on the rear hatch
  • MISC interior LED lights and LED reverse lights from deAutoLED
  • A return trip to the selling dealer to replace driver door glass due to deep scratch upon delivery

In January 2017 I quickly got to work on some other modifications:

  • Neuspeed RSe10 in Hyper Black 18x8.5
  • Wrapped them in Michelin PSS 235/40/18 rubber
  • 034 Dogbone insert (absolute trash and waste of money, lasted 3 months)
  • Euro headlight switch, for the rear fogs
  • Euro R aluminum mirror caps, which is a different metallic finish from most mk7 aluminum mirror caps (5G0-898-537-3Q7)
  • GTechniq Ceramic coating (professional application)
  • Ordered the CSS Muffler (I was one of the first on the bandwagon as can be seen from the popular CSS Muffler thread from back in the day)
  • An absolutely mad myriad of VAGCOM tweaks I could not describe to you in detail, everything possible under the moon that could make the vehicle better was done.
IMG_4708.JPG
IMG_4637.JPG
IMG_4814.JPG
 
Last edited:

bluedoggiant

Go Kart Newbie
Location
MD/GA
Spring and summer of 2017 brought more fun. I was constantly ridiculed for not babying my mk7, she went off-road...often. I mean what was I to do? Not use the vehicle and instead stare at it in a garage? I also took her on a road trip around New England, hitting some of the hot spots in Maine and New Hampshire.
  • I was an early adopter of the JB4. I don't recall, but my notes show I did some kind of upgrade kit on it. Map 6 kinda guy
  • Installed the HPA Dogbone. Beefy unit, a lot of NVH, but man I get ZERO wheel hop. I've always wondered how this unit compares to the full dogbone replacement from APR
  • I won't be writing this throughout this journal, because you can assume this vehicle is impeccably maintained in accordance with the manual and then some, but in this time I did an oil change, cabin air filter, alignment, tire rotation, various trips to the dealer for NAV system updates as there were plenty of bugs early on
  • I already tore through my Michelins in like 8 months, so I got another set using the Michelin Tire warranty. This time I went for 245/40/18. Like balloons, nice ride quality
IMG_5636.JPG
IMG_5901.JPG
IMG_5907.JPG


IMG_6258.JPG
IMG_6270.JPG


Fall of 2017 brought on one of my favorite all time modifications: Euro R headlights. I sourced the housings from my usual euro vendor, sourced the ballasts, ordered some OSRAM CBI bulbs. This was a costly endeavor for most, but I didn't find it too bad considering I was able to sell my original housings for $400 per side separately. Now would be a good time to mention one of my greatest sources of inspiration for this vehicle. I saw a UK 2-door Night Blue Golf R with aluminum mirror caps for sale by Romans (a spec not available in the US) - I essentially tried to recreate a 4-door GTI version of this spec. As an OG mk6 guy, I always hated the red line in the headlights on the mk7 GTI and absolutely swooned over the crystally looking LED turn signal on the R, reminding me of W222 S Class headlights at the time. I felt it made the car look more expensive and I still feel that way today. I don't get much compliments on it specifically, but I think people subconsciously notice them when complimenting the vehicle in general.

IMG_9228.jpeg


Winter of 2017/2018 was pretty boring.
  • I had to do front brakes, so I went with EBC Reds since they were the rave at the time (absolute trash pad, worse than OE)
  • DSG service and spark plugs (again, won't be re-mentioning these kinds of things)
  • My first big boy performance modification, an IE Intercooler
  • My first of countless front lower control arm replacements, this one done under warranty
  • By now, I'm at 39k miles and I had my water pump replaced under warranty (classic ea888 right of passage)
  • Oh, and per my notes, a recall replacement of the HPA dogbone puck due to some manufacturing error with the original
The Spring of 2018 was tech focused:
  • I installed the Homelink RVM. It's frameless and I think it makes the interior feel a lot more expensive. It's insane how many variants were made. As I later learned, there's also an insane number of variants of rear view mirror mounting/windshields/associating trim pieces depending on how you're vehicle was specified, country of manufacture, year, etc.
  • Installed a Thinkware F800 Pro dash cam (hardwired)
  • Uniden R3 radar detector (hardwired). Nowadays this is actually mounted using a super low profile amount above my RVM for a clean look.
IMG_2735.jpeg
 
Last edited:

bluedoggiant

Go Kart Newbie
Location
MD/GA
The summer of 2018 I finally decided to lower the vehicle. I was fearful of compromising ride quality and ride height, but there was plenty of praise for the MSS Springs. I went for the Sport version with non-adjustable fronts. I still happily run this setup on stock DCC shocks over a 100k miles later. I also switched my tire size to 255/35 and exclusively run this with Michelin PS4s. I have been running this setup since, on several sets, and I won't change a thing. It's incredible. Oh, also went for a track day, OGs will recognize the other mk7 I'm with.
IMG_3019.jpeg
IMG_3013.jpeg


IMG_3060.jpeg
IMG_3115.jpeg


Winter of 2018/2019 I got serious about performance. I had about 55,000 miles on her by this point, 2 years into ownership:
  • Took care of E-Diff fluid (Again, won't repeat stuff like this)
  • Got a smoking deal on revision T IS38 with 20k miles on it... You won't believe, I am still running it strong with a 120k miles total on it. Friend also got an IS38 and we installed both of ours SAME day back to back
  • IE catted downpipe
  • I put a vibrant 17950 resonator on because a member on here was peddling it like the holy grail solution to drone (it wasn't, at all)
  • OSRAM H7 Nightbreaker bulbs for my cornering lights
  • United Motorsport Engine and DSG tune for my IS38. I went for 25PSI for lower stress and less heat generation for circuit work. I forget the other parameters I specified for launch control and DSG shift behavior. This tune has been absolutely incredible. It literally drives like a factory vehicle, with refined throttle tip in and power curve. It gurgles a bit (not a full on pops and bangs) and has been flawless all around. UM tune also dropped my oil temperatures by like 30F, people don't talk about this enough.
  • P3 multi-gauge with analog sensor with an APR boost tap kit
  • Remus rear suitcase muffler because the CSS muffler became wayyyy too loud with the IE downpipe
  • I purchased a "034 prototype intake inlet" from what I think was an intern at 034 Nick Mercadante on Facebook. I would later learn this was an absolute joke because it was literally a Revo intake inlet with the Revo badge pulled off. It looks cool, but got bad taste in my mouth about 034 due to how it was presented to me. "prototype" seems like stretch of a term.
  • ECS intake inlet scoop, the one where you cut a hole in your grille
  • I put on Ferodo DS2500 brakes front/rear. These pads are incredible and I swear by them for any PP Mk7 owner for daily duty with a need for more confident stopping power in the twisties. There's virtually no cons, extra dust is of no bother to me, and I get great life out of them. I've gone through a few sets and I'm not sure I will experiment with another pad again.
  • I learned the factory DSG mount is trash and will fail like clockwork, you've all seen the videos.
  • This will dox me if it's not already obvious, but during this time I helped run the local Atlanta area mk7 group. We organized meets/dinners around the metro and regular mountain drives
  • I stuck her on Mustang and Dynojet dynos, sheets in following post. Mind you, I purposely chose to run a more conservative tune. UM will let you ramp up the boost if you like.
  • The start of my multi-year fight against code P0413. My shop erroneously diagnosed it as a failing valve and replaced it.
IMG_4695.jpeg
IMG_4664.jpeg
IMG_4665.jpeg


IMG_4667.jpeg
IMG_4684.jpeg
IMG_5034.jpeg
 
Last edited:

bluedoggiant

Go Kart Newbie
Location
MD/GA
Continued photos. I will spare you the photo of the beer can inside of the exhaust tip verifying its girth. In my desperation for eliminating exhaust drone (pre-Remus exhaust), I dynamat the trunk area - I regret this move for weight reasons.
IMG_5087.jpeg
IMG_5174.jpeg
_DSF4473.jpeg
IMG_5254.jpeg
Screenshot 2025-01-03 at 7.28.35 PM.png
IMG_5463.PNG


Spring and summer of 2019:
  • After running the HPA dogbone exclusively, decided to throw on a stage 1 BFI engine mount. This added no extra NVH I could detect, great modification
  • Carbon clean at 65k miles
  • P0413 was solved by lengthening the wiring harness to the valve, as it was quite taut from the factory. This fixed the code for a little bit
  • The Remus muffler was so good but the Vibrant resonator was still too drone-y. I sprung for the mid pipe and wow, big difference. Drone largely eliminated and the exhaust note became super refined. Remus is a bit louder than some of the resonated/muffled competition (such as APR), but it makes the EA888 Gen 3 sound fantastic. It's one of the best exhaust setups out there for this engine, mine paired with the IE downpipe.
  • Put on the BL revision of the PCV plate from the A3 after blowing a cloud of smoke under some hard braking
  • RS3 brake ducts
  • Upgraded the factory battery size to H6 and got the corresponding factory cover
  • Added the BFI DSG mount to replace the garbage factory mount. Another great unit, touch of added NVH.
  • Endless RF650 fluid, the best dailyable fluid I've tried

IMG_7412.jpeg
IMG_7971.JPG
IMG_9670.jpeg
IMG_0019.jpeg
 
Last edited:

bluedoggiant

Go Kart Newbie
Location
MD/GA
Winter of 2020, at 90,000 miles, was when the first of major repairs to my GTI occurred. After thousands of miles of hard driving in the southern Appalachians and some track days, my DSG developed some unusual shifting behavior. Revs would hang on upshift, strange feeling downshifts, and all around clunkiness. It got so bad that the vehicle began to stink like clutch, like it were a manual with a fried clutch. It was quite obvious it was gone despite every euro shop in town thinking there's no way a DSG clutch pack could fail. Against a shops recommendation, I insisted they replace my DSG clutchpack. Successful repair, the vehicle shifted better than new.
  • DSG clutch pack replaced with factory unit.
  • New DMF as it was found that mine was stiff.
  • iAbed RMS as it was found my RMS was leaking.
  • Another front LCA replacement as my bushings were torn. This time went with BFI due to their stock stamped steel geometry, and solid rubber bushing (similar to an OE RS3 arm)
  • The tech suggested a VC gasket replacement, did not realize mine was leaking - something that may have later doomed this engine
IMG_4914.JPG
IMG_4916.JPG
IMG_4918.JPG


Spring of 2020 was glamorous. COVID hit and I had a lot of free time on my hands. I hit a pig.
  • My shop also had a lot of free time, so I asked them to roll my fenders since I was getting some bad rubbing under cornering even though my suspension was not that low and I had done the fender screw mod
  • And then immediately after that I hit a pig in north Georgia. I'll spare the story here, but I definitely got a kill in. It went through my bumper and smashed into my driver side wheel, pushing it backward into the wheel well and bending the control arm. Yet somehow my RS3 brake duct survived with a small crack. I still run it to this day. Somehow my photos of the damage are not there but maybe they never existed in the first place, it wasn't much to look at. Damage came out to be about $5,600. Here's a screen grab from the dash cam footage
  • Upon getting the vehicle back from repairs, it was time to address my rubbing suspension issue. It was worn shocks. I replaced them with another set of factory DCC shops. Rubbing gone and ride quality improvement gained.
  • RS3 coil packs, quite possibly the dumbest thing I did to the vehicle but why not.
Screenshot 2025-01-05 at 4.54.45 AM.png
 
Last edited:

bluedoggiant

Go Kart Newbie
Location
MD/GA
Spring of 2021 I rolled past 115,000 miles.

I like how they look but Neuspeed wheels are made of play dough, and I was tired of constantly fixing bends in them. At one point I found a crack, though it wasn't leaking air, my originality compelled me to order a literal identical set of wheels to replace it. Most would take the opportunity to switch up the look, but I thought why fix what wasn't broken? Well, looks wise. And I wasn't about to pay forged wheel money for a Golf. So the new set of Rse10s feature a different Hyper Black finish. Can you spot the difference? Wheel on left is the old style (never mounted, I use it as living room decoration), wheel on vehicle is old style (coated in brake dust), wheel on right is new style. The new hyper blacks have a "blacker" glossier finish. The older style looked more metallic. Kind of prefer the old style but who cares

IMG_8168.jpeg


In true Volkswagen manners, she rewarded my gift of new shoes to her with a disturbing set of noises coming from my engine one day as it suddenly began to run rough without explanation.

The shop, very talented techs but mostly experienced with gen 2 engines, quickly deduced I needed a new timing chain. I had one of the highest mileage gen 3's around at the time, as was the case throughout my ownership period at that point, I felt like a guinea pig for high mileage issues.

They replaced the timing chain and found that the engine was still running very rough, this time throwing some kind of code that compelled them to deduce that the camshaft oil control valve was bad.

As you all know, VW redesigned the oil control valve at some point in 2018/2019 and with it required a new camshaft it could fit into. The old valve was not available through my shop's straight edge parts distribution channels so they said the camshafts must be replaced. The cost was not horrific, so I went along with it. The pulled the valve cover and that's when the true issue was revealed.

It was time to go dumpster diving for a new engine. Though in retrospect, I probably could have gotten away with just replacing the head. But this was a very hard driven vehicle, so the decision was made to start fresh.

$9.5k later a used engine from a 2018/2019 GTI with 20k miles was put in. Tech's suggested due to the hard driving I do with the vehicle, and the clear oiling issue, that I would benefit from a baffled oil pan. In went the iAbed baffled oil pan. If you know you know, this pan drops oil temps by a staggering amount, something like 20-30F. Combined with the UM tune, my GTI can drive on the highway for hours on end in the winter and oil temps won't go above 150F.

IMG_0199.jpeg
IMG_0201.jpeg
IMG_0195.jpeg

IMG_0197.jpeg



The old lump. Somehow my valves look worse with 50k miles on them since the last carbon clean than they did at 65k miles. I guess you could chalk it up to getting older and my right foot getting lighter.

IMG_1305.jpeg
IMG_1314.jpeg
IMG_1311.JPG
 
Last edited:

bluedoggiant

Go Kart Newbie
Location
MD/GA
Summer of 2021 brought two of my favorite modifications:
  • Aluminum subframe . Benefits? No idea, virtually none, though I suspect it's stiffer than the stamped steel. Little bit of clout for anyone looking under your car. Most techs won't even notice because it is a standard subframe....on other MQB cars. idk, I just like it
  • CSS steering knuckles. TOP tier modification IMO. One of my favorites. The additional camber (I think my alignment specs are around -2.3) is achieved without the use of aftermarket strut mounts, which replace your factory strut mount bushing. I am a firm believer in the role of the strut mount bushing in your suspension and correspondingly the ride quality. There's a reason there's a bushing there. With this part, you can achieve the camber without any of the cons associated with adjustable strut mounts. The vehicle maintains a factory ride quality and the handling improvement is immense.
  • Front wheel bearings were done while at it.
IMG_5028.jpeg


In the Fall of 2021, as I roll past 130k miles, I performed the worst mod I have EVER done on this vehicle. Absolutely disgusting. You guys can't know how much I resented this modification, it barely lasted 12 months. I placed SuperPro lower control arms on my vehicle. Not the fancy aluminum caster modifying one, just the standard stamped steel unit with polyurethane bushings. I learned that poly suspension bushings have NO role in a daily driven Golf. The NVH was absolutely miserable. With summer tires, and the rest of my modifications, my GTI immediately became unbearable to drive. I put little mileage on her over the next year due to it. Anyone who tries to justify poly bushings on this platform is kidding themselves. Those vibrations will go straight to your dome. The only place they have on this platform is if you use your Golf for motor sports, but these provided virtually zero benefit on the street and the performance benefit is matched to the voidless rubber bushings in a BFI or OE RS3 control arm. The NVH will unlock rattles in your interior you did not know existed. Zero benefit except cheap, they will end up installed on trashed MQBs. They also came pre-installed w rust. Do NOT buy this part. If you respect yourself, you would not buy this. If you have consideration of your passengers, you would not buy this. I have PTSD from the experience if you can't tell.

The reason for this job was because after 50k miles on the BFI control arms, the bushings were literally hanging out. They were cheap too, probably not great quality.

IMG_3429.jpeg
IMG_3434.jpeg


Winter of 2021/2022, I performed one of the greatest mods I ever did to the GTI. I retired it from daily duty. The miserable ride quality (see above) due to the area I live and my age made it unbearable. So I purchased one of my dream cars. It was actually a vehicle I grew up in, learned to drive in, was my first car, and the car that started it all for me. I could write textbooks on this vehicle. I will save it for another time but to keep it brief: a single owner southern and garage kept 40v 4.2 V8 Touareg in Green over Tan serviced it's entire life at the original selling dealer that eventually offered it for resale. It's a killer two-car solution, and this Touareg is one of the cleanest in North America.

_DSF9397.jpg
IMG_6762.jpeg


Spring of 2022 I performed a mundane and silly but self-satisfying maintenance item, I replaced my windshield. But not just any kind of windshield. The Vitro glass on the Mexico built mk7 is made of play dough. Mine was pitted to hell. Yes, I have terrorized Porsche GT3's down the Dragon and other area roads and was subject to copious amounts of gravel kicked up by those wide rear tires, this part was self induced. But the way it accumulated the chips, it became unbearable to drive my GTI mid day when the sun was high in the sky. Better with polarized sunglasses, but the glare was terrible. Time to do something about it.

I learned that Saint Gobain Sekurit had seized operations in North America, one of the top auto glass makers in the industry and the manufacturer of the side windows on the Golf. I was dismayed. I also know from experience that the aftermarket replacement options of well regarded manufacturers such as Pilkington were not as good as their factory installed line of glass. I needed pure unwavy glass. That is when I learned my friends 2016 Golf R has Saint Gobain glass. I grabbed his VIN, and called the dealership to grab part numbers. The windshield, to my surprise, was dirt cheap. Cheap cheap. Cheaper than the OE Vitro glass for my VIN from the dealer, like half price.

It wasn't so simple, yes his windshield would fit my vehicle, but I needed to buy new trim for the rain sensor and wiring (two pieces total). I also needed a new Homelink RVM. The rear view mirror mounts a few millimeters higher up on the windshield on my friends 2016 R than it does on my 2017 GTI. I was willing to pay up to make it happen. So crazy that there would be that variance? You would never guess it! Why did they make so many variants of a windshield?

I ordered the parts, and lo and behold, I had in my hand a brand new Saint Gobain Sekurit windshield. I still run this windshield 3 years later with virtually ZERO pitting. MUCH higher quality glass than the factory Vitro or other aftermarket options. My Golf is a franken MQB car. You need 3 sets of VINs to order parts for it now.

IMG_6574.jpeg
IMG_6575.jpeg


Touareg came in handy as a windshield delivery vehicle.

Finally, and unfortunately it appears I did not save photos of this, but two of my favorite modifications that really elevated the mk7 experience. What I mean is, makes the mk7 feel like a more expensive vehicle.
  • Mk8 rear trailing arm aero covers. These are $11 each. These seriously made a difference on the highway with respect to wind noise. There's a reason automakers across the board do this now.
  • The Mk5 harmonic balancer weight that attaches to the rear subframe. WHOA. Kudos to golfdave on here for bringing this to our attention, in addition to his multitude of brilliant threads I have taken inspiration from. The story of this part is also awesome. It's a 1K0 part that never ended up on any mk5s, appearing first on the 8V A3 to dampen road NVH. WHOA. Big difference. It makes the mk7 feel more expensive. I've really enjoyed this one.
 
Last edited:

bluedoggiant

Go Kart Newbie
Location
MD/GA
Fall of 2022, I'm at 140,000 miles. Remember how I said I keep taking my GTI off road? Apparently I still did even though I now have a truck. And apparently my MSS springs have settled quite a bit, so the vehicle is lower than I intended. I repeatedly smashed my oil pan on rocks. Nothing catastrophic ever happen, but it got to a point where I was replacing my oil sensors almost every oil change because I'd crack it.

Well one time, I smashed my oil pan, and it did not sound good. Tick tick tick tick tick..... For all I knew, the engine was totaled. Not again. But then the noise went away a few minutes later, and every thing seemed fine? I still need to know why it made that ticking noise.

I took it to a shop, one that is well regarded in Atlanta but I've personally never patronized, to have them drop the oil pan and inspect. And you know what, let's pull those nasty superpro control arms and place some OE RS3 control arms (I should probably make sure my engine is fine before sinking more money into it, right?) They were DIRT cheap. Much cheaper than the OE arms for the GTI, like 80% cheaper. Also cheaper the BFI control arms. $90 per side! No brainer. I picked it up from the dealer.

When I dropped the GTI off for repairs, I noticed a brand new UNOBTAINIUM Touareg headlight on their shelf. I needed it. I had a brand new headlight for the other side, here was an opportunity to refresh both sides. They said a customer left it there years ago and I asked if I could have it. I didn't want to tip my hand, I knew that headlight is worth at least $700, I cheapishly tried to get it for free. They said they'd get back to me with a price.

My instructions were clear, pull the oil pan and do a deep analysis of everything you see. They pulled the oil pan and said they see nothing wrong. They resealed everything, put a new (my 4th?) oil sensor in, and started her up.

I received a phone call from the service advisor in panic. He's like "hey man, I don't know what's wrong but I think you need a new engine, it's making that ticking noise really loud now". In the background of the phone call I hear my engine wacking away like a hooptie. Sounded absolutely fucked. The mechanical engineer in me was not impressed with their reporting. I asked "well, how did the oil sensor that came out of the car look?". He picks it up "Oh, it looks like the top of it is sheared off". I'm like "OK, sounds like my crankshaft is wacking away at my oil level sensor. So pull it and inspect."

They pulled the oil level sensor and lo and behold, it was making love with my crankshaft. My iAbed oil pan was deeply indented in the oil sensor location from the impact, pushing it up. I told them, shave off the top and reinstall it. No more ticking/wacking noise.

They were so embarrassed, I had to play mechanic through the phone for a job I was paying them for, they ate the cost on the lost oil, and I received an offer on the headlight they had on their shelf. "Our tech wants those superpro control arms he pulled, we can do a trade".

Fuck yeah we can do a trade, absolutely take my trash in exchange for VW Parts Gold. I got the headlight for FREE. It was one of the greatest business deals of my VW career. My trash control arms ended up on the tech's trashed S3, and I made off like a bandit. Sorry, I'm tired of respecting all builds. I never looked back at that shop again.

No issues since, and no leaks from my deformed oil pan, it's a strong one. If I ever have to replace the oil level sensor again, need to remember to shave the top of the new one off.

IMG_5504.JPG
IMG_5503.JPG


IMG_5550.jpeg
IMG_5885.jpeg


So how do the OE RS3 control arms feel? Incredible. Not much different to the sensation of when I had the BFI control arms brand new, but I suspect being OE these have a higher quality construction and hopefully the rubber will last longer. I have over two years with them and I'm still pleased.

I also did other stuff, like install a Vibrant straight spacer on my o2 sensor. The J spacer was to restrictive. The straight spacers are great. I have several. It is hard to get your hands on them nowadays due to EPA. My GTI passes emissions tests with flying colors. Boring stuff like replacing hatch and hood struts.

And then BOOM, another engine issue. I got some kind of camshaft timing related code after wailing her over the Skyway at wide open throttle for 30 minutes straight. I thought to myself, oh no, I didn't just score my head again, did I? Diagnosing this issue was above my pay grade, I suspected it was the phaser magnets, but I wanted an experienced tech to test and verify timing and everything. To make a long story short, my experience with this shop (I'm considering outing them, they're one of top VW/Porsche shops on the east coast, the branch manager is a former APR employee) was miserable and they overcomplicated the diagnosis and forced me to replace the upper timing cover because it was leaking otherwise they wouldn't perform ANY repairs. Really, it was confirmed that I needed new magnets. No big deal, cheap and easy to replace. But this endeavor cost me a grand for no reason except the shop manipulating me into other work that wasn't absolutely necessary.

I mean seriously, what EA888 doesn't leak from the upper timing cover?

Spring of 2023 I roll past 145,000 miles. I finally get around to replacing the driver door window switch assembly due to the infamous buzzing - I hate interior rattles.

IMG_3879.jpeg


For several years I have been battling this high frequency vibration through the steering wheel and chassis when going around right handers at high Gs. Not all the time, the first right hander it would be fine, but as the vehicle would heat up (generally) over the course of a run, the vibration would get progressively worse and onset earlier into the cornering. Only on right handers. For years nothing was obviously wrong, any golf owner knows the infamous clicks our stock and brand new axles do when they first move after sitting overnight, but it was all getting worse.

Finally, the issue revealed itself as I suspected, I had a bad axle. Funny enough, it was opposite of the side I suspected. It was the passenger side axle, and when I would lean to the opposite side of the vehicle during an aggressive right hander, I suspect this relieved a lot of pressure on the axle and caused the high frequency vibration.

The shop said hey, your rear main seal is leak, and your E-Diff box might be leaking too. Time to spend money. For transparency, this is the same shop I described above that I was displeased with, but given their expertise, I gave them another shot, especially since I knew the tech working on the vehicle.

  • Ordered a set of Raxles. These things are beefy and Marty is a peach to deal with. I swear you can feel the beefiness of these axles through the wheel, they're so solid, almost feels like I could put power down better. Also the click noise my axles made since the vehicle was new was gone. Great mod, strongly recommend Raxles. They even print your name on the box, it's personalized.
  • My dealer had a BRAND NEW E-Diff for $650. By this point I am playing in the world of Touareg parts where a front diff costs $6,000 and an intake manifold costs $4,000 from the dealer. $650? It's basically free! Not to mention I drive hard and the interior clutches are not serviceable. Yes my Diff pump filter was beautifully clean. But was I really going to go through the hassle if figuring out whether or not my E-Diff box is leaking when I can get a BRAND NEW one for $650, and I'm going to have my DSG and axles off anyway? No brainer, I picked up a new E-Diff.
  • At this point I labored over whether I should preventatively replace my DSG clutch pack and DMF while we're in there, due to my previous experience, I'm of the belief its a wear item like any. I eventually hesitantly settled on not touching it
  • I also labored over whether to give iAbed RMS another chance (I did have it leak free for 30k miles at one point) or go back to the stock RMS (which originally leaked on me)? Everyone insisted just do stock, my stubbornness drove me back to iAbed. Issam was to send me a brand new unit, housing and seal, free of charge.
  • The Infamous DSG Fluid Flush - story after the break.
IMG_3779.jpeg
IMG_3791.jpeg
IMG_3876.jpeg



As I'm pulling out of the shop's lot after these repairs, I immediately began to experience the failing dsg clutch symptoms I described above, with the revs hanging on upshift. My heart tanked. Did I just miss my opportunity to replace the clutch pack? Did my cheapness just fuck me over? Over the next few days I did a lot of mountain driving and inner city driving. The DSG was shifting horrifically. Slamming of the gears at wide open throttle. Laziness in the revs as I shifted up or down. I was so upset. How could I not see it coming? The DSG was functioning flawlessly prior to the repair, if I had even an inkling it was on its way out I would have gone ahead with the clutch pack change.

I took a peak at the service record, just out of curiosity:

Screenshot 2025-01-13 at 1.02.48 AM.png


That's interesting, what's 8100? Some kind of internal stock code for their dsg fluid? Something inside me compelled me to google "dsg 8100".

My heart tanked.

Liqui Moly fluid????? They put Liqui Moly DSG fluid in my DQ250???? Gosh, there are reports on these forums and others going back 10 years plus advising against the use of LM DSG fluid in our DQ250s. I thought this is household knowledge in the scene? In fact, all the shops in my experience with Liqui Moly accounts for their oil barrels, will still use OE DSG fluid. I thought this was standard operating procedure. In fact, I've never had to specify "I want OE fluid". Shops just know, or so I thought. This is why I am a control freak over parts sourcing, but I thought I didn't need to helicopter over DSG fluid. Why the hell does this shop think they can use LM 8100 in the DQ250? I was genuinely bewildered, and picked up the phone.

The guy running this shop is a well known ass hole to anyone but his circle. He bickered with me endlessly, justifying that it should have been assumed he would use LM DSG fluid (????) - I'll try to leave the drama out of this post but I was nothing but an attentive and kind customer. I decided to play along with him, I said "OK, I'll bring you the vehicle so you can make sure the fluid level and all looks correct". He took his sweet time making sure the DSG fluid temperature was correct, and checked the level. He shrugged his shoulders as if to say "sorry, but sounds like your DSG crapped coincidentally with our service"

I go on my way.

I visit one of my long time trusty VW/Audi shops. Why you ask I don't use them more? I've identified the strengths of different techs around town and like to spread the love around. While they were doing an oil change I asked them, if a customer comes in requesting a DSG fluid flush, what fluid would you use? They looked at me funny and said "the factory fluid" as if it were a bizarre question. Aka. "no shit we're gonna use the factory fluid". I asked "you got some on the shelf? Let's throw it in my car".

The fastest DSG fluid flush in my life (it was done in like 30 minutes, no filter this time around).

As soon as I pull out of that shop's parking lot... holy shit. She's back. She's shifting BRAND NEW. Good as NEW. All is NORMAL. She was alive, crisp smooth shifts throughout the rev range. Oh, it was amazing. It was time to stick one to the original shop.

My message to you fine folks: DO NOT. I repeat DO NOT use Liqui Moly 8100 in your DQ250 DSG!!!!!!! It is NOT COMPATIBLE with the DQ250.

Candidly, I don't care what Liqui Moly says, they can say whatever they want, but OBVIOUSLY this fluid does not meet specifications . I say this as a user of LM's engine oils and additives. Maybe the 8100 works in other DSG's, but not the DQ250. If you feel otherwise, I am sorry to report but you have forgotten how the DQ250 is supposed to shift. Maybe the lubricative properties of the fluid is great, but it clearly does not play well with the mechatronics unit.

The experience I described goes to show there were no placebo impressions or biases, I had no idea LM fluid was used until after I experienced failing DSG symptoms.

The end of the story, is my beautifully crafted email to the shop just happened by luck to be intercepted by the owner of the organization. He called and apologized profusely and issued a refund for their botched DSG service. I hope the branch manager got a good dose of embarrassment and is thankful his boss didn't have interest in firing him. Maybe one day I'll post up that email.
 
Last edited:

bluedoggiant

Go Kart Newbie
Location
MD/GA
Summer of 2023 starts with spending more money on Golf, because clearly I haven't spent enough.

The GTechniq ceramic coating exceeded my expectations. It was guaranteed for 5 years, and I definitely got 5-6 years out of it before I could tell the properties were fading. I took it back to the professional to re-apply the coating, but he now uses his own proprietary no name ceramic coating. This is one of the top guys in Atlanta, he's ceramic coated Porsche's 918 pre-production vehicle, I've seen a Ferrari F40 in his garage, I trusted his product. I also PPF'd the euro headlights - mixed feelings about that, the texture of the film seems to collect more grime and bug splatter imbeds itself more permanently.

IMG_4302.jpeg
IMG_4309.jpeg


Spring of 2024 I rolled past 160,000 miles, it was time for a carbon clean. No photos unfortunately, how many more crusty intake valve photos do we really care to see?

My photo library is comprehensive and all my photos are geotagged, it made writing this journal easy.

But more importantly, and the reason I was able to write this, is I recently digitized all my service records with an accompanying excel file with details of every single dollar I have spent on this vehicle. I went through 221 rows to help me write this. I even have mundane things on there like tire rotations, spark plugs, everything. Here are some snapshots from the file to give you the idea (yes, I really did get 3 flat tires within one month):

Screenshot 2025-01-13 at 3.36.39 PM.png


I originally was putting close to 30k miles a year on her. Nowdays its closer to 10k miles annually.

Screenshot 2025-01-13 at 3.36.49 PM.png


And I have spent an ungodly sum of cash on this Golf. 2020-2021 was EXPENSIVE - though this includes dollars insurance paid out for repair of the pig accident. Over $75,000 as of this writing.
Screenshot 2025-01-13 at 3.38.40 PM.png


I will eventually update this post with key lessons learned over my ownership experience and will eventually summarize key modifications in the original post.
 
Last edited:
Top