Thats interesting. I was recommended to run 10k/16k on my A3 when I have a company called redshift motorsports rebuild my coilovers. I was thinking this was more of an autocross setup which I'm more into road course such as VIR. My car does weigh 3350lb so heavier than most gtis here so maybe thats why such a high spring rate?
Thats interesting. I was recommended to run 10k/16k on my A3 when I have a company called redshift motorsports rebuild my coilovers. I was thinking this was more of an autocross setup which I'm more into road course such as VIR. My car does weigh 3350lb so heavier than most gtis here so maybe thats why such a high spring rate?
If so, these rates are front 2.31hz and rear 2.39hz ride frequencies.
I run the rear about 0.2hz higher than the front, so the rear can catch up to the front over bumps. This split will understeer, all else being equal. But, that is autocross advice. Would work for the road course just fine. If you wanted more rotation either soften the front or stiffen the rear springs.
If so, these rates are front 2.31hz and rear 2.39hz ride frequencies.
I run the rear about 0.2hz higher than the front, so the rear can catch up to the front over bumps. This split will understeer, all else being equal. But, that is autocross advice. Would work for the road course just fine. If you wanted more rotation either soften the front or stiffen the rear springs.
Yeah it is MQB chassis as well and weighs the same as most golf r and 3350. I dont do a whole lot of auto cross but bfury5 has given me a ton of insight on spring rates and such, just trynna keep a informative thread going and collect advice
Yeah it is MQB chassis as well and weighs the same as most golf r and 3350. I dont do a whole lot of auto cross but bfury5 has given me a ton of insight on spring rates and such, just trynna keep a informative thread going and collect advice
I'd run a lot less toe in rear before playing with toe out in front again. Toe out in front is definitely more autocross focused for low speed turn in because they don't do heavy braking. Coming down a straight at 130mph and then braking will likely start to pull one direction or another if you have any banking in the track at all. At least that was my experience. At 0.16 toe in rear, you're still at understeer hell. I started getting good rotation at 0.1 and eventually settled on 0.06, but next year I will take out more.
Ok, so I went to .21 toe out front, 0 toe rear. When I made this change in GS trim, the car was stupid loose afterwards. With the APR springs, it is not stupid loose, but it is better than it was. Still need more front neg camber. I just don't think the Eurosport is going to get me there. I chose it because it would retain factory NVH. In the short term I might actually try a little toe out in the rear just for science.
So I'm going to install the Konis at some point and have the opportunity change camber plates or go a different route all together, but my goal is not to drastically increase NVH. Has anyone here been able to get -3 without adding a lot of NVH? The roads where I live are crap due to all the rain.
Ok, so I went to .21 toe out front, 0 toe rear. When I made this change in GS trim, the car was stupid loose afterwards. With the APR springs, it is not stupid loose, but it is better than it was. Still need more front neg camber. I just don't think the Eurosport is going to get me there. I chose it because it would retain factory NVH. In the short term I might actually try a little toe out in the rear just for science.
So I'm going to install the Konis at some point and have the opportunity change camber plates or go a different route all together, but my goal is not to drastically increase NVH. Has anyone here been able to get -3 without adding a lot of NVH? The roads where I live are crap due to all the rain.
You could slot the top mount holes, not sure how far you can move the top mount inboard before it hits the side of the strut tower though (that's also assuming you'd be OK with elongating those holes, understandable if you don't want to)
You could slot the top mount holes, not sure how far you can move the top mount inboard before it hits the side of the strut tower though (that's also assuming you'd be OK with elongating those holes, understandable if you don't want to)
That ship sailed, I've already slotted about 1/8 inch. I'll have to dig around and see how much more room I have, but I don't think it's enough room. I'm wondering if there's another camber plate that isn't too bad NVH wise that would get me to -3 with a little slotting.
That ship sailed, I've already slotted about 1/8 inch. I'll have to dig around and see how much more room I have, but I don't think it's enough room. I'm wondering if there's another camber plate that isn't too bad NVH wise that would get me to -3 with a little slotting.
From what I've heard Vorshlag make the quietest most reliable plate, but it's still metal on metal attachment to the car. You could consider making an isolator pad between the plate and the body out of a high durometer rubber or poly which could help dampen out some of the vibrations and harshness. On the highway my plates act fine, but you definitely get more tire noise through the cabin as a result of the direct metal contact.