2017 GTi PP at VIR

[Mini7]

**Edit**
I’ve been working on indexing my build thread.
If anyone sees anything noteworthy that I need to index, please let me know which Post#, so I can update this page.

Dec’ 2016
PP GTi Sport 6MT

2017 Sept
Pagid RSL 29 Front - Post Link
Pagid RSL 19 Rear - Post Link
Castrol SRF Fluid

Nov
RSE10 18x8.5 et45
245-40-18 MPS4S

2018 April
034 RSB
034 Toe Links

Nov
034 Dynamic Camber Plates
018K SuperPro LCA
Spiegler Brake Lines Front & Rear - Spiegler Lines Link
235-45-18 MPS4S
Ti Heat Shields
RS3 Brake Ducts

2019 Apr
330x32 PB BBK - Post Link
PB13 Front pads
255-40-17 NT01’s - Post Link
RSE16 17x8.5 et45

Nov
Ohlins R&T - Post#523 Link
-2.5 Front: 450lb/in Swift Springs
-2.0 Rear: 450lb/in Swift Springs
Vorshlag Camber Plate
SuperPro front adjustable endlinks
SuperPro RTA upper bushing
SuperPro outer RCA bushing
SuperPro inner RCA bushing
APR low torque tune

2020 May - Install Link
AMS Intercooler
CSF Radiator

July 2020
Track Consumables: Post Link

2020 October
Ohlins Re-valved by 3DM Motorsports - Link
Increased Rear Spring Rate: 672lbs Swift Springs
APR Pendulum mount
Revo Dogbone bushing
CSS Swivels - Install Post
PowerGrid front end-links - Clearance Photos
Front FAG Wheel Bearings
Rear SKF Wheel Bearing
Front outer ball joints
Front ABS Sensors
New front rotors
New Spark Plugs
New RS3 Coil Packs
Eurosport rear endlinks
VAQ Pump - Post Link
VAQ Maintenance - Post Link

2021 February
Wavetrac Install Post
IS38
Audi European Short Shifter
Baun Downpipe/Midpipe

2021 July
Verus Hood Vents : Install Post

2021 October
Verkline upper Rear Control Arms | Post #1593, Post#2054
Verkline +5mm Offset Lockout washers | Post #1977 | Post#2054
7” 12k Swift Spring/Assist Spring Combo | Post #1615
iABED Baffled Sump
VWR Oil Cooler - 19 Row Setrab | Post#1491, #1518, #1565, #1580
Improved Racing 212F Thermostat | Post#1488
R Aux Radiator - CSF | Post #1563, #1575, #1593
SM-10 Apex 18x9 et 45 Wheels | Post #1546
R-Bumper Conversion Parts List | Post #1570
APR Catch Can

March 2022
Verkline front LCA - Unboxing Photos | Post#2054
Verkline RTA - | Post#2054 | Post# 2029 | Post# 2033
9k front springs/assist springs
Corner Balance | Setting up the scales: Post# 2029
SPL Rear Toe Links | Post# 2033
EQT Coil Grounding Kit | Post #2002
ECS Brake Booster Re-inforcement Bracket | Post #1997

Mods – “to do”
Verkline Rear LCA Bearings | Post# 2201

2022 Maintenance
Water Pump
Thermostat
Carbon Cleaning | Before: Post# 2076 | After: Post# 2073
New Injectors
Transmission Oil Change
VAQ Oil Change
VAQ Adaptions
New Plugs - Denso IK24’s


Tracked my daily driver at VIR. My regular track car was undergoing some repairs. Car is stock other than Pagid track pads and performance friction brake fluid.

I’m really impressed with how the Mk7 performed on track.

Here are some YouTube links.

Anyone else here run at VIR?

Thanks
Joe

 

[jmason]

Anyone else here run at VIR?

Not yet. It's on my list!

 

[Mathuemc]

Does the brake fluid make that much of a difference? Also, would steel brake lines also be advised?

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[Mini7]

Does the brake fluid make that much of a difference? Also, would steel brake lines also be advised?

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For track work, yes I would definitely flush and use a high performance brake fluid. Ran 4- track days on the same performance friction fluid. No problems. My third HPDE weekend, I cooked the fluid. That knocked my confidence going into the brakes zones.

From now on, I will be flushing and putting new fluid in for every DE weekend as part of my preparation.

Stainless lines will help with “feel”. I’m still running stock lines. I would burn up a set of stock pads on track. After 6-days on track, I will need a set of new front rotors.

 

[Colowyo]

I haven’t tracked my GTI yet. But have numerous other cars. There is nothing worse than going “condition brown” at the end of a straight when your pedal goes to the floor.

Definitely do the fluid.

 

[Mini7]

Does the brake fluid make that much of a difference? Also, would steel brake lines also be advised?

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

I haven’t tracked my GTI yet. But have numerous other cars. There is nothing worse than going “condition brown” at the end of a straight when your pedal goes to the floor.

Definitely do the fluid.

Totally agree. Even the good stuff needs changing out. I had to do the flush and bleed Sat evening after leaving skid marks in my boxers in my last session. I managed to keep the Gti on track. Not a good feeling at all.

 

[Mathuemc]

Really, a set of pads gone after one track day? I have yet to do my first one, but sounds this will cost me more than I thought.

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[big residual]

Definitely upgrade to SRF or RBF600/660 for brake fluid. Much higher wet and dry boiling points, less likely to let you cool your fluid. I change out every 2 mos or so during track season, which is probably 4-6 events. I think it’s paranoid but healthy. Pads last me a long time, rotors were only down 1-2 mm after a full season—caveat: I run a StopTech BBK on my R and it makes brake life easier overall.

 

[NoGodGetOverIt]

Are you still on the stock Cinturatos? Looks like you were holding the corners pretty well!

 

[Mini7]

Really, a set of pads gone after one track day? I have yet to do my first one, but sounds this will cost me more than I thought.

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I have 6-days and 5000 miles on my pagids. Still plenty of life left in the pads. I’m saying that I would get stock pads to fade were I to run them on track. Once they are glazed due to excessive heat they are pretty much toast and not effective in slowing you down. If you are going out for the first time you may be OK depending on how you use the brakes. But if you have progressed out of the novice run groups you will be starting to compress your brake zones. Stock pads are going to fade. My PP rotors have minimal wear with the pagid pads but have heat cracks. Still useable on the road but for another 2-day track weekend, I would not be comfortable using them so they will be replaced. It’s just not worth the risk.

 

[Mini7]

Definitely upgrade to SRF or RBF600/660 for brake fluid. Much higher wet and dry boiling points, less likely to let you cool your fluid. I change out every 2 mos or so during track season, which is probably 4-6 events. I think it’s paranoid but healthy. Pads last me a long time, rotors were only down 1-2 mm after a full season—caveat: I run a StopTech BBK on my R and it makes brake life easier overall.

I used to run the same brake flush schedule as you on my Mini with a BBK. The system has a much greater heat soak capacity over a stock system. The PP BRakes worked way better on track than I expected but I definitely use them up running White Solo. Rotors and pads last close to two seasons on my Mini running at VIR. Shorter tighter tracks may use up brakes and tires a lot faster.

I’m going to flush after every weekend based on my last experience.

 

[Mathuemc]

I have 6-days and 5000 miles on my pagids. Still plenty of life left in the pads. I’m saying that I would get stock pads to fade were I to run them on track. Once they are glazed due to excessive heat they are pretty much toast and not effective in slowing you down. If you are going out for the first time you may be OK depending on how you use the brakes. But if you have progressed out of the novice run groups you will be starting to compress your brake zones. Stock pads are going to fade. My PP rotors have minimal wear with the pagid pads but have heat cracks. Still useable on the road but for another 2-day track weekend, I would not be comfortable using them so they will be replaced. It’s just not worth the risk.

Gotcha, thanks for the info!

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[Mini7]

Are you still on the stock Cinturatos? Looks like you were holding the corners pretty well!

Nope.

The OEM A/S Bridgestones sucked on the track. I changed to Michelin PS4S when the weather forecast called for rain at VIR for my second event of the year. Still had some life in my Bridgestone after 22,000miles but was concerned about tread depth on a wet track.

The Michelin PS4S were excellent on a very wet Saturday. In the dry, I dropped my Lap time by 5-sec at VIR. I hauled butt up through the climbing essess. Stock suspension doesn’t give me the front end bite I would like. The car needs more camber to reduce the understeer. Consistently pulled 1g in the corners. 1.1g in some. I bugged the heck out of some faster cars in the corners. Got spanked on straights but that is to be expected with only 220hp.

Considering some SuperPro Control arms and Vorschlag camber plates to sharpen up the handling. Then some 17” track wheels. I got to remind myself that my GTi is my backup track car to my Mini. LOL!

 

[RadioFlyer]

Thanks for posting!

 

[Mathuemc]

pretty close lap times there!