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2017 GTi PP at VIR

Mini7

Autocross Newbie
Location
Charlotte, NC
Car(s)
2017 GTi Sport PP
Guys, anyone know if there's a thinner spring pad for the rear? I want to reduce the rake a little as cheaply as possible. I have the stock pads on there now.
The lower spring pad. Correct?

I would be interested in that as well lower my rear ride height.
 

GTIfan99

Autocross Champion
Location
FL

Mini7

Autocross Newbie
Location
Charlotte, NC
Car(s)
2017 GTi Sport PP
A quick update.

New rear main seal is in. Got an extra pair of hands to help me get the transmission out. In the end I benched it out with the safety of someone spotting me so that it didn’t come crashing down. Got it out nice an easy. Going back is likely to be trickier. A task for another day.

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Split the transmission case to remove the stock diff. Got to get the rivets machined/drilled out to transfer to the Wavetrac.

I tackled it from the clutch housing side. Seemed simpler than heating up the the back casing to release the bearing and hammering it out. This avoids removing all the gear stacks, potentially losing washers and nooby assembly problems. Also much easier when tackling this job solo.
I have an inside bearing puller to remove the two cups. The one casing doesn’t allow for much purchase on the outer bearing cup.

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Mini7

Autocross Newbie
Location
Charlotte, NC
Car(s)
2017 GTi Sport PP
Wavetrac Install

The test fit of the Wavetrac LSD raised a few concerns that I needed to address. Spinning the new LSD made a slight scraping noise that made me take a closer look. I noticed a witness mark on the casing.
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You can see the edge of the Wavetrac hitting the casing.
My transmission case required some clearancing
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Had to break out the die grinder to make some room for the new Wavetrac LSD.
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The finished result.
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jmason

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Frederick, MD
Same thing when my Wavetrac was installed. No long term issues.
 

Mini7

Autocross Newbie
Location
Charlotte, NC
Car(s)
2017 GTi Sport PP
Not a big deal but it’s good to know up front. I covered everything up to prevent shaving getting into the bearings and the rest of the case. Cleaned it thoroughly with a few cans of brakes clean, but it does slow the job down to do it right.
 

victorofhavoc

Autocross Newbie
Location
Kansas City
Not a big deal but it’s good to know up front. I covered everything up to prevent shaving getting into the bearings and the rest of the case. Cleaned it thoroughly with a few cans of brakes clean, but it does slow the job down to do it right.
Brake kleen residue can break down oils and leave behind salts when it evaporates. Before reassembling everything I would brush the areas you sprayed with some oil and rinse off, or just use a simple acid bath to clean up.
 

Mini7

Autocross Newbie
Location
Charlotte, NC
Car(s)
2017 GTi Sport PP
I plan on wiping everything down with gear oil. Lubing the bearings and the LSD torque biasing gears.

I want to keep the case mounting surfaces good and clean for the sealer to make a good seal.
Right now things are pretty dry from all the cleaning. Minimal oil on the bearings for now as I need to assemble/disassemble the case to do the end float measurements.
 

NightBlueMK7.5GTI

New member
Location
SF Bay Area
Car(s)
MK7.5 GTI
Lots of great information in this thread!! I'm curious what your plans are for the oil cooler. Do you still plan on using the Setrab cooler with parts from the VWR kit? Any other parts added? I'm about to start piecing together some cooling upgrades and am wondering if you would do anything differently a second time around. Do you think the CSF radiator was a worthwhile addition?

I would love to be able to keep temps in check for 20 minute track sessions, but also really don't want to run into the issue of oil not getting up to operating temp during winter street driving. I'm trying my best to not ruin the daily drivability of the car. I've already got an APR high torque stage one tune so it sounds like coolling will certainly be a challenge.
 

GTIfan99

Autocross Champion
Location
FL
I'm thinking about trying Evans Waterless coolant. I'm worried about whether it will prevent corrosion and lubricate the pump like the stock coolant does.
 

Mini7

Autocross Newbie
Location
Charlotte, NC
Car(s)
2017 GTi Sport PP
Lots of great information in this thread!! I'm curious what your plans are for the oil cooler. Do you still plan on using the Setrab cooler with parts from the VWR kit? Any other parts added? I'm about to start piecing together some cooling upgrades and am wondering if you would do anything differently a second time around. Do you think the CSF radiator was a worthwhile addition?

I would love to be able to keep temps in check for 20 minute track sessions, but also really don't want to run into the issue of oil not getting up to operating temp during winter street driving. I'm trying my best to not ruin the daily drivability of the car. I've already got an APR high torque stage one tune so it sounds like coolling will certainly be a challenge.
I will post my VWR oil cooler install. Essentially going to use the kit as is but swop out the cooler for a 19-row Setrab. The VWR sandwich plate has some pressure relief system. I really wish it had an old school thermostat.

Everything points to limited cooling capacity in these cars. The CSF radiator is not a fix by itself. I’m sure it helps but is not the sole solution. The oil cooler will help reduce the total heat load going to the coolant.

I am also adding Verus Engineering hood vents to allow some of the heat to exit the engine bay. A tuned car will have cooling issues when tracked.
 

victorofhavoc

Autocross Newbie
Location
Kansas City
Second everything mini said ^

I'll also add I absolutely cannot hit 186*F on oil with the standard size vwr cooler and their pressure valve when it's below freezing outside on my regular drives. I HAVE to leave the car running for 10 mins before my drive to daycare (6 miles), leave it running while there, flog it on one open road/bridge on the way back, and drive in a higher gear the rest of the way to get to 186. During summer and with the hood louvres I couldn't get over 200 on the highway doing 80mph. I leave the hood insulation in place to reduce airflow and that helps, but I may end up having to strap some cardboard to the cooler for winter. This also makes me think their pressure system can be fooled by just using a heavier cold oil, like a 10w-40? Too bad it already barely cranks when it's 0 out; I doubt molasses thick oil would help...
 

Mini7

Autocross Newbie
Location
Charlotte, NC
Car(s)
2017 GTi Sport PP
Just when I thought I had my Wavetrac installed in its new home. Bearings and gears oiled. Diff preload measured and set. Go to check the torque setting for the aluminum casing bolts, only to find they are one time use. Aaaargh.
What the frack!!
Another visit to the Dealer.
 

Mini7

Autocross Newbie
Location
Charlotte, NC
Car(s)
2017 GTi Sport PP
Transmission is in folks.

If it would quit raining, then I can get the car put back together.
 

Mini7

Autocross Newbie
Location
Charlotte, NC
Car(s)
2017 GTi Sport PP
Quick Update.

Wavetrac is installed
iABED Rear Main Seal
New Sachs SMF
European Audi short shifter
Baun Performance down-pipe/mid-pipe
IS38 with 91-Octane APR high torque tune

Everything appears to be working well and leak free. Will be checking fluids on the trans and VAQ this weekend. Rechecking for any leaks. I’m going to pull an oil sample with 600-miles on the new turbo.

Having tackled all this work myself, my only two concerns were the lack of heat on my first day back on the road. I suspected an air-lock in the cooling system which rectified itself on the second day. The other was a bad clutch judder upon clutch engagement. This was the first time that I had tackled a clutch job myself. Did the work on my drive with axle stands. Long story short, it was just a case of the clutch plate wearing in. Phew! 😅 Had strong clutch plate burnt smell, which had me sweating and thinking I had messed something up. By the second day the judder disappeared and clutch engagement/actuation was back to normal. Put 600-miles on the car. 30mpg on my first tank so pleasantly surprised by the IS38.

RMS was simple with the VW installation tool.
Clutch/Flywheel was simple as well.
Bleeding the release bearing was a multiple bleed process.
IS38 install was tricky because of the tight confines and getting the coolant and oil lines disconnected.
The Wavetrac install had its challenges. Even after purchasing the correct tools. Inexperience and nooby challenges. Getting the one bearing cup out was difficult the other was easy.

I will post a detailed how too for the Wavetrac install.

Busy working on getting the oil cooler installed.
 
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