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2017 GTi PP at VIR

GTIfan99

Autocross Champion
Location
FL
Truer words have not been spoken today... My friend's cayman gts I could get up to 131 this past weekend and my stage 2 gti could only muster about 115 on the same straight. For me the GTI was faster around the whole course by about 2-3 seconds, but down the straight the cayman walked away. It has to be aero and power delivery since power to weight is similar overall. I'm starting to experiment with shifting around 5800-6k rpm in gear 2 and 3, then letting 4 rev out. I wish the gearing was tighter, so I may try a shorter tire next time. I like the shorter tire a lot before.



I've been on the yoko a052 for 12 sessions and they have maybe 6 more session left (max). They're crazy fast the first 6-7 laps before they overheat, but that speed comes at a price... Next set I'm looking at R888R, RS4, 615k+, or just going to a RR. All the latest 200TW have been too autox focused and they just burn up on track with any heat.

Once I use to the 2 half worn sets of RE71R's, I'll move to RS4's. You lose half a second for autocross, but they'll hold up better on track. I'm only doing 7 autocrosses and 4 track days this year, so should be able to get by with the Stones.
 

Mini7

Autocross Newbie
Location
Charlotte, NC
Car(s)
2017 GTi Sport PP
Verkline LCA’s

UPS dropped off a package.....

Work schedule has gotten a little crazy with things opening back up. I will post more pictures when I get a some spare time to get back into the garage. These are going to give me the camber I need For the track.

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bfury5

Drag Racing Champion
Location
CT
Verkline LCA’s

UPS dropped off a package.....

Work schedule has gotten a little crazy with things opening back up. I will post more pictures when I get a some spare time to get back into the garage. These are going to give me the camber I need For the track.

Really curious to see these fitted. It sounds like it will be the best option for adjustable camber for a track application. I've been thinking about hacking up some LCA to make an extended one to gain camber instead of camber plates, but I'm actually concerned that pushing the bottom of the wheel that far out will decrease tire clearance between the fender and the strut. On a car with camber plates, the pinch points are between the strut and fender and you effectively move the strut inboard, gaining more tire clearance. With the LCA, my worry is that I'd run into the fender even trying to run the same setup I have now. Curious if anyone has experience with this
 

Mini7

Autocross Newbie
Location
Charlotte, NC
Car(s)
2017 GTi Sport PP
These are very well made. They are robust and strong. Using oversized rod ends so they will handle the rigors of the track. Taking curbs and handling high tire loads.

I will likely retain my Vorshlag camber plates to give me all the adjustability I want and need. Keeping the tire off the coilover and the outer fender. While also maintaining clearance to the inner fender for the swaybar mounting tab on the coilover.
 

bfury5

Drag Racing Champion
Location
CT
These are very well made. They are robust and strong. Using oversized rod ends so they will handle the rigors of the track. Taking curbs and handling high tire loads.

I will likely retain my Vorshlag camber plates to give me all the adjustability I want and need. Keeping the tire off the coilover and the outer fender. While also maintaining clearance to the inner fender for the swaybar mounting tab on the coilover.

Got it, so you're planning on using them on parallel. That definitely makes the most sense for a track setup. Best of luck! I'm sure it'll be a kick-ass setup
 

Mini7

Autocross Newbie
Location
Charlotte, NC
Car(s)
2017 GTi Sport PP
Just need to find a window to get these installed and the car aligned.
 

Mini7

Autocross Newbie
Location
Charlotte, NC
Car(s)
2017 GTi Sport PP
Verkline LCA’s

Its been a busy few weeks.I pulled the trigger on a set of front Verkline LCA’s for the track. I’ve maxed out at -2.5 degrees front camber. I am very reluctant to lower the car to gain camber, as I do not want to lose suspension travel. I want to run closer to -3 degrees for my current R-Comps and am planning on going to take off slicks which will require even more camber. I have really liked my SuperPro front LCA’s and have no complaints. These are motorsport LCA’s with spherical bearings and rod-ends and will not be for everyone, especially for those that daily their GTi.

These are quality pieces with large oversized rod-ends which I am real happy about. So they should withstand the rigors of the track, taking curbs and handling the loads placed on them by slick tires. There are full length inserts for the rod-ends to screw into. The tubes have been V-notched to stitch weld the insert to the outer tube for added strength. Small detail, yet important. The spherical bearing is angled in the aluminum mount. Another detail. This maintains maximum articulation for the lower pivot.

The outer spherical pivot has two positions for a largish camber adjustment. The fine adjustments can be made with the inner rod-end. The Caster arm can be used to balance caster left to right. And I will likely increase my Caster from 8 to 8.5 degrees.

Looking forward to getting these installed.

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Mini7

Autocross Newbie
Location
Charlotte, NC
Car(s)
2017 GTi Sport PP
Verkline LCA’s

Yes they did. So they will get some protection. I need to check whether I should use some sort of grease lubrication on the rod ends before putting the booties on, I know this will attract dirt but it also provides lubrication to extend life and load carrying capacity. These are PTFE lined rod-ends.

OK, another nice detail is the “shoulder bolts” (not sure if that’s the right term) for the camber arms. They fit super snug into the cleviS. But most importantly they provide greater strength in shear because the load is on the full diameter and not a threaded section.

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geokilla

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Car(s)
2018 VW GTI DSG
AMS IC & CSF Install

The Link to my initial attemp with the IE IC for reference: https://golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/2017-gti-pp-at-vir.351754/post-7406654

Second attempt to get the CSF Radiator to fit with an aftermarket intercooler. This time with an AMS intercooler. The following photos are after installing the AMS IC & CSF radiator.
The only change made was to remove the IC charge pipe and re-route the main engine harness underneath it. Previously the harness was touching the center of the fan shroud (with a reroute higher up & over the top of the IC charge pipe). Another detail change was to shorten the RHS (passenger) frame rail to bumper mounting bolt as it came very close to the AC lines.

*snip*

There is a big difference in the amount of clearance between the IE & AMS IC. Both units appear to be well made. There is only one way to install the IC. This is not a complicated install. The IC location is fixed by the mounting brackets in the radiator support. The photos illustrate the increased clearance with the AMS IC vs. the IE IC. I have been in touch with the CSF factory in California, their test car was an R with an IE IC. They tell me that their European office has sold radiators fitted to FWD GTi’s running IE IC’s. This combination unfortunately did not work out for me. I did not do anything different on my second install. I made some detail changes regarding the harness routing and shortening the chassis rail bolt.

Given how big the Magic/CSK intercooler is and how it's not 100% fitment as it usually requires a bit of modding, do you think it's possible to install the CSF radiator and pair it together with the Magic/CSK intercooler? I already have the intercooler installed and now considering upgrading the radiator after coming across your experience and the Speedhunters article.
 

Mini7

Autocross Newbie
Location
Charlotte, NC
Car(s)
2017 GTi Sport PP
I’m not familiar with the Magic IC, so cannot really comment on whether it would fit. What modding did you need to do to get it to fit? How does the stock radiator fit behind the IC. Is it nice and tight, with very little gap to the IC?

You need to be aware of the stack up of the component depth that pushes the radiator shroud back into the hoses and engine harness. The harness can be easily re-routed. The hoses not so much.
 

jmason

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Frederick, MD
Looks great! So much for a DD.

The shank of the spindle joint appears to be longer than the OEM ball joint shank. If so, that should lower the outer pivot point, providing additional camber gain under suspension compression. But I do wonder about the issue that SuperPro had in trying to develop their ball joint. That effort was abandoned in part because of interference with "certain" (whatever that means) BBKs. Hope you don't have any issues there.
 

geokilla

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Car(s)
2018 VW GTI DSG
I’m not familiar with the Magic IC, so cannot really comment on whether it would fit. What modding did you need to do to get it to fit? How does the stock radiator fit behind the IC. Is it nice and tight, with very little gap to the IC?

You need to be aware of the stack up of the component depth that pushes the radiator shroud back into the hoses and engine harness. The harness can be easily re-routed. The hoses not so much.

I didn't do the installation as my mechanic did it for me. But basically they have to file it down, create some clips to mount it, etc.
 

Mini7

Autocross Newbie
Location
Charlotte, NC
Car(s)
2017 GTi Sport PP
Looks great! So much for a DD.

The shank of the spindle joint appears to be longer than the OEM ball joint shank. If so, that should lower the outer pivot point, providing additional camber gain under suspension compression. But I do wonder about the issue that SuperPro had in trying to develop their ball joint. That effort was abandoned in part because of interference with "certain" (whatever that means) BBKs. Hope you don't have any issues there.


Hey Jeff, good to see you post. Hope you are doing well.
Yes, my DD is being compromised in pursuit of track performance. Lol
I told myself that I would keep mods to a minimum. Keep them safety related like brakes, track pads and appropriate fluid. But as I exposed weak links, I would develop the car to solve them. Slippery slope. I enjoy the challenge.

The shank appears to have a zinc coating and is a tight fit so it is just barely in the bearing in the photo. It was for illustration purposes to share with the rest of the community. I will likely touch it up with some 2500 grit sand paper. If you are running 18 or 19” wheels you could install taller spindle to correct roll-center if you are lowered. Verkline has a front sub-frame with two different suspension pick-up points, where you can lower the car 20mm. Add 20mm spacers under the FSB, inner suspension pick-ups & steering rack to correct bump steer and maintain the original suspension geometry. The big bonus is that you maintain your full shock stroke, because you haven’t lowered the car on the spring perch. Changing out the tapered spindle shaft would be way, way cheaper.

I will mock up the Verkline LCA’s on my Clubsport S front hubs/swivels. When you adjust outboard, it moves the whole spindle, so it shouldn’t interfere with any BBK. With the spherical bearing, it has a compact footprint. What I need to check is when you turn left of right, whether the rotor makes contact at extreme lock. I think adjustable lower ball joints would have the clearance to work. But I remember the discussion on SuperPro nixing their attempt at adjustable LBJ’s. I think Whiteline has a set of adjustable LBJ’s. Roll center correction may be tricky with 17” wheels because of the reduced space. Not something I paid attention too, but you have me curious now.
 

Mini7

Autocross Newbie
Location
Charlotte, NC
Car(s)
2017 GTi Sport PP
I didn't do the installation as my mechanic did it for me. But basically they have to file it down, create some clips to mount it, etc.

Are you tracking the car on a regular basis?

Print out both my posts. The one where I installed the IE IC and then the second one with the AMS IC and show your mechanic And get his opinion. I didn’t check the dimension on either IC, I believe that they have the overall same dimensions. I cannot explain why the AMS fit and the IE didn’t. I am assuming that the lower notch where the radiator mounts to the IC was closer/tighter to the intercooler itself, creating the necessary room at the back of the radiator shroud to provide a safe amount of clearance to the radiator hoses. That’s the only explanation I have bit didn’t take any measurements to verify whether my assumption is correct.

I am just happy that everything fit on my second attempt. 1400 miles later and 3-hrs of carving up mountain roads on Sunday with no issues.
 
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