2017 GTi PP at VIR

[DerHase]

I'd 100% go for an in-tank solution over a large volume of fuel in the hatch (having to lose hatch space if the car is still street-driven + build a firewall/containment) or under hood (fire risk).

While I'm not running IS38 power to make the fuel system borderline - I have gotten in the habit of just tossing 5 gal of fuel in the tank after every track session. I bought some VP fuel jugs that I bring to the track. Also saves a ton over the $$$ VIR pumps, at least for the first day (though you could go off-site and buy more to save money for day 2).

 

[GTIfan99]

So it’s been a crazy busy year to date. Been working on the house and spending time with the family.

New 034 front swaybar is installed. Working on a few repairs and maintenance items to get the car ready for one/two DE’s in the fall.

One issue I want to solve for is fuel surge/hard cut on the front straight kink at VIR.

Two potential solution. Fuel surge tank in the trunk or EQT’s new tank mounted protect fuel pump. A pricey but clean install. What have other track rats done to prevent fuel surge?

Interested to hear impressions on the fsb.

 

[Mini7]

Yeah. I’ve resisted the FSB.
If it gives me the front end I’ve been chasing, I will be eating some humble pie.

Im super curious myself.

 

[Mini7]

I'd 100% go for an in-tank solution over a large volume of fuel in the hatch (having to lose hatch space if the car is still street-driven + build a firewall/containment) or under hood (fire risk).

While I'm not running IS38 power to make the fuel system borderline - I have gotten in the habit of just tossing 5 gal of fuel in the tank after every track session. I bought some VP fuel jugs that I bring to the track. Also saves a ton over the $$$ VIR pumps, at least for the first day (though you could go off-site and buy more to save money for day 2).

Agree totally. In tank is the simplest and safer solution.

 

[Mini7]

OBD11 Coding
Hey thought I would do a quick post here in case someone has the answer.

Was trying to wrap up my VAQ ECU replacement and run the VAQ pump adaptions using OBD11. Had a communication error through the gateway bus, where it was not communicating with Module 32 Diff lock.

While navigating in and out of OBD11 I got a popup ”Autocode gateway list” which I cancelled out of. The 3rd time I mistakenly hit yes unknowingly. Come to find out, it deleted module 32 Diff Lock.

Question: Can I restore the Diff Lock module from a backup? How do I go about doing that?
All I have seen online is how to restore the long coding. Not a module restore.
Or
Do I need to go to the dealership?

 

[victorofhavoc]

Home depot racing ridgid shopvac adapter for intake ducting mount

 

[victorofhavoc]

Passing hose along front of lca, then smush it into an oval j the area it needs to squeeze under the cv axle and above the lca to make it to the back of the rotor (because the calipers mount on the front side of this platform)

 

[victorofhavoc]

Pass the ducting along the underside, right above the belly pan, and squeeze it between the fender liners and other bits.

Smushing the hose does nothing for airflow, since the volume doesn't change, just the shape. Then again, the front end of this car would benefit dramatically from even a 1" hose because of how little air gets to these brakes, even with deflectors. Ultimately, a BBK or more airflow will just add a bit of time before it overheats, but the only way you can address actually cooling the brakes is to rip out the fender liner on the upper side right behind the centerline of the axle and cut some louvres into the fender. You have to get heat out somehow. Adding heat capacity is fine, but the air has to go somewhere or you're not addressing the root of the issue; heat trapping.

 

[victorofhavoc]

Hope that helps!!!

The backing plate you can easily mock against the stock one, and then you just cut a hole for a simple 2.5" od pipe to get welded on. You'll want about 4" or so of pipe hanging off to avoid contact with the wheel, but otherwise everything fits up fine and you still get full turning radius. Not sure how much added castor and camber at the top mount would affect radius though. Top mount added camber reduces clearance around the top of the knuckle area, while added castor reduces clearance on the back-middle area behind the axle. To what degree this all occurs is a function of ride height and other suspension geo.

Personally on this car, I would avoid camber adjustment at the top mount and try to get it all done at the lca or somewhere else down low.

 

[tigeo]

Ultimately, a BBK or more airflow will just add a bit of time before it overheats

A BBK just solves the issue.

 

[victorofhavoc]

A BBK just solves the issue.

Not really. There's some added heat capacity from more mass usually, but it does nothing for cooling. Most of the track "brake overheating" issues I've seen with beginner and intermediate drivers were because they went too aggressive with pad on the wrong tire and spent too much time on the brakes. A lot of heat issues are solvable by the driver in shorter sessions (40 mins or less), but when you get in longer sessions or you go out and rent a track for all day driving, you just have to find a way to extract that heat.

Unless you go for some seriously massive BBK, most of them actually have smaller pads than the oe pp design. They're good at preventing your fluid from boiling because of aluminum and less surface area, but that also means brake fade creeps in before fluid boil and the majority of drivers have difficulty detecting true fade from the pads (and not the tire or fluid).

Just remember, compound and piston size determine friction and pedal pressure ratio. Pad size determines pad longevity and local heat tolerance. Piston type, backing plate, and caliper material determine heat shedding for the fluid. Rotor determines global heat capacity. None of these determine global heat shedding, that's simply air in and air out.

 

[Mini7]

Thank you for posting the brake ducting photos.

 

[victorofhavoc]

Thank you for posting the brake ducting photos.

No problem!

Sorry it took a minute. It's weird, but I had to attach them to multiple posts or it wouldn't work .

 

[tigeo]

Not really. There's some added heat capacity from more mass usually, but it does nothing for cooling. Most of the track "brake overheating" issues I've seen with beginner and intermediate drivers were because they went too aggressive with pad on the wrong tire and spent too much time on the brakes. A lot of heat issues are solvable by the driver in shorter sessions (40 mins or less), but when you get in longer sessions or you go out and rent a track for all day driving, you just have to find a way to extract that heat.

Unless you go for some seriously massive BBK, most of them actually have smaller pads than the oe pp design. They're good at preventing your fluid from boiling because of aluminum and less surface area, but that also means brake fade creeps in before fluid boil and the majority of drivers have difficulty detecting true fade from the pads (and not the tire or fluid).

Just remember, compound and piston size determine friction and pedal pressure ratio. Pad size determines pad longevity and local heat tolerance. Piston type, backing plate, and caliper material determine heat shedding for the fluid. Rotor determines global heat capacity. None of these determine global heat shedding, that's simply air in and air out.

I wasn't saying you get better cooling with a BBK, just that the need for cooling is reduced vs. a stock brake setup due to the larger heat sink, 2-piece rotors, etc. I also agree that with many n00bs, the braking issues are in-part related to braking technique.

 

[GTIfan99]

Two piece rotors help reduce temps of your wheel bearings, which is good for extending their life on track.