roundle1979
Ready to race!
- Location
- DC Metro
- Car(s)
- 2018 VW GTI SE 6MT
Oh, that's sort of lame.VW is the one dropping 7K, OP would have to drop 10K+.
OP's never going to buy VAG again.
Oh, that's sort of lame.VW is the one dropping 7K, OP would have to drop 10K+.
Yeah, having an engine failure on one of these is a very bad thing (I know first hand). Cost to replace or repair is so high and the cars don't hold their value so you either take your losses and move on OR pay up and drive it again. In the case of OP, if it were me and I really liked the car, I would put the 10K into it. You can't replace the car with anything comparable for twice that.Oh, that's sort of lame.
OP's never going to buy VAG again.
Semi correction -VW is the one dropping 7K, OP would have to drop 10K+.
Usually no core return when buying a new oem long block from factory. You usually only pay core when buy a rebuilt motor. Also you may not get core return money if nature of failure prevents core from being used again.Semi correction -
VW dealer inflates price to 18k...adding 2k to cost of long block and neglecting core return $ for old engine and turbo (like my uncle was given for the replacement of the same motor just last year at a dealer on his 2015 Audi Q3)...and then they say 40% goodwill, brining the price down to what it should be anyway, in an attempt to make it seem like they're good guys who are helping the customer out.![]()
I personally don't think the quote was that far off. I faced similar situation with 2.0t motor in past and 9-10.5K for a factory new longblock is about what it costs. That is completely new everything and assembled at factory best of the best and you get a 12/12 warranty. Stepping down if you can have your motor rebuilt by someone reputable that will give you a warranty is next best. No warranty solutions for that much expense is up to you and your tolerance for the risk of something going wrong due to a faulty part or improper install.Sounds like you ended up having a used motor put in the car anyway? I'd hate to pay the dealer for a new motor at jacked up rates, but letting them profit off of a motor replacement at your expense would sting even more.
I have the car home again. Free 200 mile tow via AAA for the win.Sounds like you ended up having a used motor put in the car anyway? I'd hate to pay the dealer for a new motor at jacked up rates, but letting them profit off of a motor replacement at your expense would sting even more.
I have my uncle's repair bill for $11.9k for his Audi Q3, same year, at an Audi dealer here on LI. New long block was $8600. He got a $2k core return on engine and $300 core return on turbo. Then add labor. The repair writeup says pieces of metal found in oil pan, etc, same as mine.I personally don't think the quote was that far off. I faced similar situation with 2.0t motor in past and 9-10.5K for a factory new longblock is about what it costs. That is completely new everything and assembled at factory best of the best and you get a 12/12 warranty. Stepping down if you can have your motor rebuilt by someone reputable that will give you a warranty is next best. No warranty solutions for that much expense is up to you and your tolerance for the risk of something going wrong due to a faulty part or improper install.
It looked like they were having him pick up the cost of parts and they were going to cover the labor based on what he shared with us.
Hi folks, curious if anyone has any ideas. Was on trip from NY to Vermont, and the car died. Quick synopsis.
Cruising along as normal, all of a sudden, shaking, misfires, CEL/EPC light flashing, no power. Engine eventually dies. Can't restart.
Car gets towed to dealer in Massachusetts. I was in bay with technician.
They can't even crank it.
Codes for misfire and fuel pump short. No timing related codes.
Technician can't even manually turn the engine.
Tried to remove spark plugs, got 3 of them out, #1 is stuck after a few turns. I'm quite sure I didn't cross thread when I put them on 2 years ago. Tech doesn't want to force it, waiting for foreman to return next week for his opinion.
Tech noted fuel pump was messed with...it indeed was... suction pump recall done by my local dealer under warranty way back when. Tech said connector for wire was broken and wiring was sloppy.
Oil level fine.
Recent background - had slightly bent fingers on clutch pressure plate a few months ago with no identified cause. Possible clue the crankshaft wasn't quite right? But then I also have this fuel pump code. No check engine lights prior to this acute event.
Tech thinks something definitely up with cylinder #1, maybe causing the plug to be stuck? Fuel pump maybe spazzed out and cylinder 1 had some kind of major detonation event?
Today I return to NY, leaving the car in Massachusetts. Pretty ridiculous a stock car, driven gently, maintained religiously, would self destruct cruising on the highway with 80k miles.
Any thoughts at all on what could have happened?
Do I let the dealer try to the that spark plug out? They said they run the risk of ruining the threads in the head and that they will only do it if I'm sure I'm comfortable with it. We'll see if the foreman has any other ideas.
Thanks so much! Really stressed over this, ruined our vacation and may ruin is financially.
What did they say when you showed them the receipt?My
I have my uncle's repair bill for $11.9k for his Audi Q3, same year, at an Audi dealer here on LI. New long block was $8600. He got a $2k core return on engine and $300 core return on turbo. Then add labor. The repair writeup says pieces of metal found in oil pan, etc, same as mine.
My uncle didn't even think to seek any kind of goodwill.
That's why I think it was all a game re: the goodwill. They just pumped the price higher.
Funny, same year, same engine, same miles. Maybe there's some kind of defect.
If this dealer was $11.9k, and then VW offered to pay 40%, maybe I would have considered it!
I emailed it to them, they never replied to that email. When I spoke to that service manager on the phone, he said parts have gone up since 1 year ago (I sent him a screen shot taken right now of the cost of the long block on VW's own official parts website, which matched what my uncle was charged). He didn't really address that. He said they don't really do core returns he can't comment why other dealer did.What did they say when you showed them the receipt?
So is VW in cahoots with the dealers or not? Which is it?
I'm in New York and the car was up at a dealer in Massachusetts near where it broke down. My dealer here said keep the car up there since they have it and are already diagnosing it (service manager down here sounded like a real winner). Now that the car is home, I can try other dealers here on Long Island, but VW told me the goodwill process would have to start all over again.yeah, I don't get why you stuck with the one dealer/shop. and VW definitely isn't going to pay you to take it to an indy, especially out of warranty.
really weird to not take a core return, i'm sure they can refurbish all sorts of stuff that'd be replaced (as an indy shop might if you opted for a rebuild).
for $7k I can get a rebuilt motor, drop-off to picked up with a 2yr/24k warranty at a shop i trust. but that's michigan rates, NY must be a lot higher.