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My 22' Tig uses the same digital steering wheel controls. Aside from no longer having a dedicated cruise control cancel button, I've had no issues using them compared to actual button style.

The low side AC line sweats a lot during the summer and the water drips off onto that area which ultimately collects debris over time.

General rule of thumb is you should only use 1st to get going and that is it, once you're in motion you shouldn't need 1st. I know it can be a bit difficult with the MK7 gearing to do that, my MK7 sometimes does exhibit the behavior you have going into 1st, but when it does that I don't force it...

$500 to drop the trans is not bad at all. The all metal TOB can also fail, the plastic ones tend to fail more often but they are fine as well. I am running a Luk MK6 plastic TOB that I paid $30 for on Rockauto.

Trans has to come out.

My LS waterpump lasted 216k before it started weeping and takes an hour to replace. I am dreading doing it on my MK7 and wife's 1.8T.

Stock at 53k, no rattles. Had a DP for a short period of time early on but back to stock.

Surprised he even found a shop that would do it, most shops won't touch a DMF for resurfacing. OP, put more miles on the clutch and see what happens. 15 miles is nothing in terms of break in.

Going to assume because he is tuned that there is a good chance the dealer will tell him pound sand. OP, is the car a 6MT?

Just wait to do this till your next oil change, not like the car is going to blow up.

I'd just purchase a same spec cat and weld it in myself. If you don't have a welder, find an exhaust shop, this is an easy job.

If it is draining back after a week of sitting then most likely the o-rings on the end of the rod are not sealing.

I had a tire shop cause over $3,000 in rocker damage to my wife's Jetta. They owned up to it, but never a pleasant situation. Good on the dealer for owning up to it and taking care of it.

I would go get a quote from an indy shop and save some money.

Ok that's what I thought, you had just said aluminum blocks so I was confused. No worries.

I thought these were iron blocks? My 5.3 with 216k slaps on cold start up for 15 seconds. Runs like a champ.

My guess is salvage yards are a guessing game where as here, he knows what happened to the motor.

If you still intend to tackle it yourself, take videos and pictures before you disassemble critical stuff. Can't tell you how many times I've taken a picture and thought to myself I won't need it but then end up going back and zooming in on some stupid piece.

Don't climb under the car after a year if you're going to be picky about surface rust on bolts.

I do the same. I don't even communicate with the dealer by phone. Until I have the deal I like in writing, I am not running around and wasting my time.