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not ideal. to put power down you want weight on the front.

Those are hot! Wish @Anthony@NEUSPEED had these in something smaller than a 19.

I don't think that will work for the driver side of the DQ381. It uses a c-clip, not bolts.

drew doesn't use track pads... he lives a 1/4 mile at a time

we got about 6" of snow on the ground and it's like 17F outside, nope, not taking my chances in a car with a rollbar and no airbag :cool:

I'd be offended but my car isn't on jackstands just yet.

Wouldn't even call them long-lasting really, just a bit more aggressive than domestic people might be used to. It's a common complaint, along with dust. Personally I can't stand how ceramic pads feel but I'm sure they'll help your issue.

If you are just after rotor life, OEM is hard to beat. They're already generally high-carbon alloys and QC is usually better than aftermarket. Tolerances do affect run-out, which reduces rotor life. The reason behind rotors not lasting as long is because German OEMs spec their brake pads for...

The ideal way is to take corner weights and do some calculations, there are various spreadsheets that will do this for you. A higher rear rate both combats understeer and in general you want your natural frequency of the rear to be a little higher than the front to promote flat ride. The idea...

Yes, toe-in on the front helps with tram-lining, more negative camber makes it worse. I would simply hold onto the steering wheel instead.

For toe, 0 all around if you can get it, but like @bouba said, it's a PITA finding shops that will actually do this. For camber it depends on the tire and what you're doing with the car. For your use case I would start between -2 and -2.5 in front and -1.5 in the rear. About as far as I'd go...

you don't have a bad map sensor, you have a bad turbo.

cam cover, valve cover, same thing. technically the PCV is the valve cover, the issue is the seal between the cam cover and the head. essentially a timing job, big pain.

Are you Cumming? I'm Cumming.

teeeeechnically the martini livery is blue and orange. just sayin'.

https://injector-rehab.com/product/vw-audi-gdi-intermediate-ring/ I have a couple simos tools dongles, but it's worth buying your own A0 if you plan to tune. OBD11/VCDS can definitely tell you what ECU software you have and which cylinder(s) are misfiring, and you can also work with...

Quebec

the n00b move is thinking you'd want a 981/718 cayman then the real move is a 987.2 cayman that still has hydraulic steering.

Yeah, I doubt the ECU is relevant. Is it a GTI or 1.8? My bet is it's injector-related. Car sat, seals degraded or moisture got in and corroded the internals. I'm about an hour from you if you want a hand diagnosing. At the very least can verify the ECU is swapped.

Where are you in Michigan? It would be good to check the software version with something like simos tools to confirm the dealer's story. It's possible there's a parts mismatch but based on your story I'd guess there's something mechanical going on and the dealer wasn't going to do any further...