Search results

...and I guess, that if the end links are adjustable, the twist in the torque tube is sum total of the length of the combined lever arms? I wrote adjustable because one has to longer...

...and that's the balancing act. A little slow speed/off throttle oversteer with high speed understeer... ...right, the armco is infinitely less forgiving.

...and I for sure appreciate your thoughts and advice! Did you catch my thoughts about asymmetric sway bar adjustments?

I never read your testing link...impressive...I'm so old, seat of the pants with thumb in the air seemed to work. :love: But, nice info about the front bar...and if XxDavidXx isn't tired of me by this point, my initial reflection of the larger FSB are all seat of the pants in very poor...

So, found something interesting today...the shop that installed my FSB connected one side to the soft setting and the other to the stiffer setting. I never heard of this and it was called the middle setting...which I guess might work well if the end links were adjustable. But the logic feels...

...I agree!

...you can create a high cornering beast, but the attitude of the car will either be understeer, neutral or oversteer. Is the car oversteering at 1g or understeering at 1g...? ...as I wrote way above, I am also trying to learn how to drive with the new FSB and LSD...it's a completely...

034Motorsport (Soft) - 153% Rate Increase vs. Factory Volkswagen GTI (20mm) Rear Sway Bar ...which is why I plan to increase the rear rate a bit by re-adjusting the 25.4mm rear bar. These rate increases come from 034... 034Motorsport (Stiff) - 174% Rate Increase vs. Factory Volkswagen GTI...

Isn't this a bit of semantics? Which ever bar is strongest - not a technical term - will dominate the balance characteristics. A rear bar increases oversteer, a front bar increases understeer...whichever is the dominant in a given setup, determines the balance characteristics - all else...

...but it will reduce understeer...and more to my concerns are that increasing spring and damping and SB rates essentially reduce grip through an increase in wheel rate. I feel as though I have to work around this 26mm front bar... I also realize, as you pointed out, that I am on the wrong...

xXDavidCXx, Lazy question for you...I just searched the Hypercoil coilover springs - thank you! The block height or completely compressed height of a 7" 400 in/lb spring is 2.625 inches and the 650 in/lb is 3.129. Have you ever experience this heavier spring to reach block height in track...

...well, then I am decomposing 😞 ...better than the alternative;) So my goals then are to try a bit more static neg camber and higher rear spring rates. Adjusting the RSB to a stiffer setting should give me a feel for what to expect working with the large FSB

Still trying to find a great alignment shop near me in the Hudson Valley...:( I went to the University of Arizona for college...I see that you are from AZ. That was in 1979.

I used this diagram long ago in my past to help explain geometry to others...I simply haven't dived into the particulars of this car because it has been a pure DD until this past fall. I cannot find all of my work from my 2005 Mini JCW...last car that I tracked every week.

Understood...but the added caster does add to dynamic camber...still, what is 9 degrees of positive caster? 1.5 more than stock? I had 2.5 degree static neg camber with the GC plates...but no added caster with that kit. Twas a pretty good DD and track trade-off.

Thank you for that suggestion...Hypercoil has a great reputation. Aside from my LSD learning curve, higher rear rates may help me to adjust the car a bit more...I'm old and have become accustomed to trailing the throttle a bit into a turn, then gently applying power to help straighten out the...

Replying to myself...70N/mm is ~400 in lbs. I can't read early in the morning. If the rear motion ratio is in the .68 range, the effective rear spring rate is 272 in lbs...I might take a stab at a 525-550in lb rear spring rate = ~350 effective rate...should still be within the damper's working...

Yea, my comment about adjusting the dampers was a "what if" question to myself, but it's a fundamentally flawed approach - thank you keeping me on track, no pun. I can easily up the rear rates through Ohlin...but adjusting the RSB is pretty easy...unfortunately, I could not break the RSB upper...

Ohlin Road and Track kit inlcude 70N/m front and rear...the RSB is an 25.4 034 bar set on the softer setting. I do not know what the motion ratio is for the rear mulit-link, but the effective rate is for sure less than the front.

...the rates are 70N/mm front and rear...I don't know what the motion ratio in the rear is, I suspect that I could up the rear rate with little trouble and leave the RSB alone...I may try to increase damping in the rear just a click or two...maybe that will help stiffen the rear roll rate just...