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It's _probably_ CEL free, at least for a while. I have a similar GESI 400cpsi "EPA" cat welded in and I've had a code pop up a couple times in the past 2.5 years. It will not pass a visual inspection, and no downpipe comes with a CARB number. IMO since you're in SF county, I would not bother...

Mason is an honest mechanic. Fair price given how annoyingly expensive the o-rings are. Your shop is giving you the fuck-off pricing, for whatever reason. For $400 that would include a new haldex pump to be a fair price.

Usually because you're not in the right running state. Could be they require the engine on but not running, running and between a certain temperature, etc.

likelihood of it failing is much higher. It's a chinese replica of the OEM pump, purchased en masse for maximum markup.

$50 fuel pumps gonna $50 fuel pump. insane to trust a critical part to aftermarket bullshit. an OEM LPFP is way cheaper than a new motor.

What wheels do you already have? I'd just use up those tires on them before making a decision. If you need new wheels right away, 17x8.5.

why don't you try putting a stock intake manifold on and seeing if that fixes it?

How was the filter mounted?

Email still works fine: fowvaydriver@yahoo.com Asked him a couple months ago about other billet options, he's still around.

Yes, and I'm only comparing high-output parts. Gen3b/1.8 stuff isn't relevant. Pressure is higher in part due to smaller bore diameter. I would not want to screw with testing the effects of a much longer injection window to accommodate. Late pooling can be an issue. Only obvious benefit is the...

Small update: motor is still sitting on the crane. I got that strainer installed in the oil pump, that's like $30 in bolts to get to. Took the time to add a completely new oil cooler and gasket. My guy sent me a gently abused IS38 to get it going. Got that bolted up, but I ordered a new turbo...

You would probably need to retrofit the entire gen4 high pressure system, including the cylinder head (for the HPFP): Our system can't produce 350+ bar. Interesting that they are double-sealed though. Incentive to maybe get mine done if an aftermarket option isn't available in the next few...

If you want to DM me the ARP part number you used once it's sold I'm interested to know.

I alluded to this (and pasted this it in another thread) but I lent a set of the continentals to Nostrum (local direct injection-related engineering firm) and had them go through them. This is why, even with a more robust graphite seal, I don't especially trust them long-term. The conclusion...

If you're hoping to see if you have a more reliable IS38 by checking the part number, it's a pointless task. They're all weak. If you just want to know if it's been replaced, the part is on a stamped sticker behind the turbo inlet on the compressor cover.

This is just a flat-out lie. I wish I'd screenshotted the listing I had in my cart. There are several vendors we're all familiar with which list at MAP, and I saw 1500, 1600 and 1800 all within the past month. In either case, it doesn't matter. You raised the price and called it a sale. The...

The price of the DTR6054 went up 3 times since the beginning of October, the last increase was just this past week. MAP was $1350, then $1500, then $1600, now $1800 for the "sale". As you admit, MSRP is meaningless. Are you listing the same prices for customers in California? I'm sure Holley...

If your a/c light is on, your compressor is running, which has parasitic loss. Pretty sure the defrost setting turns that on by default.

This is one part. One T30 bolt and a coolant hose clamp. Don't know where you got two from.