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I second using a thioglycolate fallout remover/wheel cleaner to get the rust off of the surface first. I do the same thing on rock chips and it removes the need to sand at all, although that's on stuff that's the diameter of a toothpick so ymmv. I would also clean the area really well and look...

Cheapest and least impactful thing to do would be cut the threads off flat and give the feet a fresh coat of paint. Or drill out the rivets and put grommets in the holes. At least its a black car lol.

Set up the final payment for the remainder of my loan balance. I'm car payment free!

You need one of these bad boys to hold the line in place under that shield

Rockauto has valeo too, and those usually specify if they are made for j hooks or if they come with the stupid 15 adapters

To be fair, it seems like cam phaser issues are common on a lot of engines, vvt 4 cyls at least. A coworkers hyundai was making a terrible noise from that area under load recently, topped off the oil and it went away. My previous honda with a k24 would make the same clacking on cold starts...

Yardsale-ing all of it in the hatch on the way home - Priceless

Those should fit just fine. They look like reps of the Golf R Pretoria wheels, with higher offset? but only by 10mm. They will look like running stock wheels with a 10mm spacer, which is totally safe rubbing wise.

yeah if you haven't replaced a caliper or something, all you need to look for is the color/condition of the fluid coming through. You want it to look clean like the stuff fresh from the bottle, not dingy or dark yellow.

If it is the bumper scraping, i've seen ads for this hdpe type stuff that 3m tapes on the underside of the bumper and lets it slide easier/is sacrificial.

I drove it less than 1k miles this year. I let my 200k+ mile Forester take the brunt of winter and my work parking situation (mud, gravel, seagull crap, heavy equipment and big trucks moving about). Just today I found a nice scratch on one of its doors that's over a foot long and the same dark...

I'd check ebay for one off a wrecked car first, but I bit the bullet and had an OEM one painted up. I think it was like $150 all in. When you do install it, put some dish soap on the sliding surfaces of the clips. I had a tough time installing it and that seemed to help it pop on.

That back left tire has a screw in it :(

maybe check the sliding cover on the underside of the center armrest. Mine actually broke during the process of finding out that's what was buzzing. It's a super cheap piece that does nothing. Pretty sure I threw it away.

once you take the bumper off, try swapping the horns and see if the same tone still works, or if the other one suddenly works? I have no clue what the harness plug for them looks like but hopefully they'd be the same. It's possible one of the grounds is bad too, make sure the brackets and...

Finally put my fuel door back together after someone pried it open and it needed a new door painted and a ding PDR'd out. Replaced the lock actuator as well, which I believe is why it got pried in the first place (it was sticking in the locked position and eventually quit locking altogether)...

The actuator had been sticking in the locked position. But I just called them and they said they would have no reason to open it for a state inspection. And it sits in my driveway pretty much 24/7, so that leaves someone trying to steal my gas I guess.

Yeah if not the actuator part is like 40 bucks on fcp and from what i've seen, that ding will take like 30 seconds to pdr out. And I have a DA to buff the whole area. It's just infuriating that I put so much effort into keeping it nice and some ahole fucks it up in the 20 minutes they had it for.

Yesterday I took my car to a nearby vw dealer for its yearly inspection (Massachusetts). Normally I'd go to the gas station closer by but the dealer is open on Saturdays. Today I noticed a ding above the fuel door which caught my attention because I hardly drive this thing anywhere and...