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Carbon cleaning tools

R

Roald

Go Kart Champion
Location
Ohio
Car(s)
GTI mk 7 2017
Just cracked 70k. Bought the car used with about 60k and I just want to make sure its in good shape.
I know FCP and ECS both sell kits, but these seems a bit...expensive?
For those that have done this manually was there a blaster that you used that you liked? I have a 20 gal compressor and the patience to complete the job slowly, but given how little I'll use this specific tool I would like to keep the cost down.
I found a model to 3d print the vacuum adapter which is great. I can make that part for a nickel or less.
Thank you.
 
gixxerfool

gixxerfool

Autocross Champion
Location
New Jersey
Car(s)
2016 Golf R
Roald said:
Just cracked 70k. Bought the car used with about 60k and I just want to make sure its in good shape.
I know FCP and ECS both sell kits, but these seems a bit...expensive?
For those that have done this manually was there a blaster that you used that you liked? I have a 20 gal compressor and the patience to complete the job slowly, but given how little I'll use this specific tool I would like to keep the cost down.
I found a model to 3d print the vacuum adapter which is great. I can make that part for a nickel or less.
Thank you.
Click to expand...
As far as I know most people rent blasters.
 
aloha_from_bradley

aloha_from_bradley

Autocross Champion
Location
AZ
Have a shop do it and get a warranty.

More expensive, but if the engine fails due to media getting past the valves on accident, you won't be on the hook to replace the engine.

The reason I say this, I've actually seen it happen.
 
gdub09

gdub09

Ready to race!
Location
Omaha, NE
Bought a $25 blaster off amazon, I have used it several times and its works perfect. I spent more on getting a longer hose and swivel air fitting for it than the gun lol. If you've already got an air compressor, you're good to go then. I got the one that sucks up the walnuts, a gravity fed gun is not ideal. Just turn the engine by hand, tape off the open valve port and you're good to go.

My process is scrape with a pick(curved is best, not 90 degree), vacuum, scrape again, vacuum, walnut blast, scrape what remains, and final walnut blast. After that you should be fine, this a pretty effective process I've found. Just did one earlier this week and the whole cleaning process iself took around 30min.
 
R

Roald

Go Kart Champion
Location
Ohio
Car(s)
GTI mk 7 2017
With a night to rest on it, and some additional research....
It appears some folks with MK7s are seeing very little build up around 70k~miles. I assumed this was a guaranteed maintenance item... Is that true?
Is there a way I can verify that I definitely need to do this right now without pulling the manifold?

I know that rough idle, starts, power loss are all things to look out for...however I have no real frame of reference. This is my First VW/GTI/Direct Injection car, so afaik the thing "seems" to be okay. And I'm not getting any codes.
I've started AutoX so I've just been extra critical of maintenance items as a result.

This is also my DD, so pulling the manifold and leaving it off if I need to order the tools isn't super effective.

EDIT: I have a 3d printer and intend to print out the vacuum/blaster attachment.
@gdub09 do you have a link to the one you bought? I've been looking at this kit from ECS but honestly the overall cost is what's putting me off of it even though it appears their tank is one of the lesser expensive ones.
 
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aloha_from_bradley

aloha_from_bradley

Autocross Champion
Location
AZ
Roald said:
With a night to rest on it, and some additional research....
It appears some folks with MK7s are seeing very little build up around 70k~miles. I assumed this was a guaranteed maintenance item... Is that true?
Is there a way I can verify that I definitely need to do this right now without pulling the manifold?

I know that rough idle, starts, power loss are all things to look out for...however I have no real frame of reference. This is my First VW/GTI/Direct Injection car, so afaik the thing "seems" to be okay. And I'm not getting any codes.
I've started AutoX so I've just been extra critical of maintenance items as a result.

This is also my DD, so pulling the manifold and leaving it off if I need to order the tools isn't super effective.

EDIT: I have a 3d printer and intend to print out the vacuum/blaster attachment.
@gdub09 do you have a link to the one you bought? I've been looking at this kit from ECS but honestly the overall cost is what's putting me off of it even though it appears their tank is one of the lesser expensive ones.
Click to expand...

If you aren't seeing cold start misfires, rough idle, or a drop in MPG, there's no reason to blast the valves other than preventative maintenance.

Just tune the car up frequently. New plugs and coil packs with fresh fluids as well as top tier fuel will go a long way.

People get overly paranoid about this stuff. Plenty of high mileage MK7s out there who have never had a carbon cleaning, and their engines run just fine.

If you have never done a carbon cleaning before, I'd highly recommend you do it with someone who knows what they are doing or have a shop do the work. Others will tell you how easy this job is, and they are right, if you have the experience. It's also pretty easy to accidently shoot walnut shell all over the inside of your engine, and let me tell you, there's no getting it out.
 
jay745

jay745

What Would Glenn Danzig Do
Location
Slightly Outside Chicago
Car(s)
Mk6 racecar, Tacoma
R

Roald

Go Kart Champion
Location
Ohio
Car(s)
GTI mk 7 2017
There's a 3d printed version as well that I intend to use.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4187002/files
I haven't measured it yet but I assume it will be the right size. I think that guy used it on a mkv? I lost track of the original post. Ultimately I can redesign one if I have to. So that should have me a few $$. The actual print will cost less than $1.
I've seen a few videos where folks are just using bundled zip ties to poke around in there and break the carbon loose. I'm going to avoid using metal picks/tools if at all possible. I have some heavy nylon scraping tools that I plan to use for the big stuff.


How clean do these need to be? / how sensitive are they to being cleaned unevenly? I suspect rather sensitive. We're looking at high volume/high pressure air flow. If direction/resistance wasn't important then the shape of the valves would be different. But if it's more along the lines of reducing the built up excess mass....I might just give the ziptie method a try to start. I'm all for buying tools. But I'm not sure what else I would use a blaster on. Plus then I have to figure out where to store it.

EDIT: just found these ones too.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3650201
https://grabcad.com/library/walnut-blast-vacuum-tool-1
 
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jay745

jay745

What Would Glenn Danzig Do
Location
Slightly Outside Chicago
Car(s)
Mk6 racecar, Tacoma
Roald said:
There's a 3d printed version as well that I intend to use.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4187002/files
I haven't measured it yet but I assume it will be the right size. I think that guy used it on a mkv? I lost track of the original post. Ultimately I can redesign one if I have to. So that should have me a few $$.
I've seen a few videos where folks are just using bundled zip ties to poke around in there and break the carbon loose. I'm going to avoid using metal picks/tools if at all possible. I have some heavy nylon scraping tools that I plan to use for the big stuff.


How clean do these need to be? / how sensitive are they to being cleaned unevenly? I suspect rather sensitive. We're looking at high volume/high pressure air flow. If direction/resistance wasn't important then the shape of the valves would be different.
Click to expand...
I've done probably more than a hundred carbon cleanings, metal pick is the way to go. You'll be there all day with a zip tie. They aren't all that sensitive either if they aren't spotless but you do want most of the gunk out. The area along the valve seal and upper stem is most important.

Spray pb blaster into the 3 valves that are closed and let that sit for a few mins, then use your pick with it still filled with pb. Vacuum the pb out, more time with the pick, vacuum it out. Spray brake cleaner in there to dry it, vacuum that out and then you're ready to shoot it with your walnut blaster.
 
R

Roald

Go Kart Champion
Location
Ohio
Car(s)
GTI mk 7 2017
jay745 said:
I've done probably more than a hundred carbon cleanings, metal pick is the way to go. You'll be there all day with a zip tie. They aren't all that sensitive either if they aren't spotless but you do want most of the gunk out. The area along the valve seal and upper stem is most important.

Spray pb blaster into the 3 valves that are closed and let that sit for a few mins, then use your pick with it still filled with pb. Vacuum the pb out, more time with the pick, vacuum it out. Spray brake cleaner in there to dry it, vacuum that out and then you're ready to shoot it with your walnut blaster.
Click to expand...
Sounds like I'm buying the blaster then.
Any other oddities to watch out for when doing this?
Plan is;
Block tires, emergency brake on, car in neutral. Ignition off, disconnect battery.
Remove intake. tape over or put a bag over fuel injector ports.
Use 24mm short socket and long wooden dowel through spark plug hole to make sure you have tdc
Pick clean big stuff
blast, carefully
replace everything


I don't initially plan to replace the gasket. Is that a bad idea? I'm putting it right back where it came from and not moving it around much. I suspect it would be in good shape.
 
jay745

jay745

What Would Glenn Danzig Do
Location
Slightly Outside Chicago
Car(s)
Mk6 racecar, Tacoma
Roald said:
Sounds like I'm buying the blaster then.
Any other oddities to watch out for when doing this?
Plan is;
Block tires, emergency brake on, car in neutral. Ignition off, disconnect battery.
Remove intake. tape over or put a bag over fuel injector ports.
Use 24mm short socket and long wooden dowel through spark plug hole to make sure you have tdc
Pick clean big stuff
blast, carefully
replace everything


I don't initially plan to replace the gasket. Is that a bad idea? I'm putting it right back where it came from and not moving it around much. I suspect it would be in good shape.
Click to expand...
It's fairly straightforward. You definitely want to replace the gasket though.
 
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