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Sean's Shadow Blue GTI

smanierre

Autocross Champion
I’m not sure what I used exactly but I remember putting some bolts or something in holes on the flywheel and sticking a breaker bar between them then resting the breaker bar on the ground while I broke the bolts free. The engine was still attached to the car so it’s gonna be harder for you with it free standing. Impact is probably the easiest.
I think i'll be good to have that work. It's balanced pretty well and easy enough to use my weight to hold it still. Hopefully I can try it out tomorrow
 

smanierre

Autocross Champion
Got the flywheel off and motor up on the stand. Took a bit of creativity to get it up there without a crane. I ended up bolting on the mount, then putting the vertical half of the stand on upside down, and rolling the engine over so the wheels were up. Hard to explain but it worked well and I didn't even break anything. Gonna start tearing it down next week and then once I start getting money again i'll most likely be bringing the block down to FFE to get it bored out and cleaned up along with some new rods and pistons.



Also anyone know how this comes out? Does it just pop out? It spins freely once I remove the bolt but it doesn't seem to wanna come out. I tried prying lightly with a screwdriver but got nothing and didn't wanna break it.
 

torga

Autocross Champion
Also anyone know how this comes out? Does it just pop out? It spins freely once I remove the bolt but it doesn't seem to wanna come out. I tried prying lightly with a screwdriver but got nothing and didn't wanna break it.

I've never removed that specific line, but I've removed a bunch of similar lines before and they all just pop out.
 

smanierre

Autocross Champion
Got that line out of the back of the engine. Did a little wiggling and prying at the same time with a screw driver.


Also got around to taking out the AC compressor lines finally. Will be so nice having the stupid compressor out of the way. Seems like I could never get it totally out of the way beforehand. Would some expansion plugs work fine to plug the holes there or should I look for something more heavy duty/permanent?


Found a bolt that I lost when I did the DV on my car years ago. I think it was the first thing I did to it when I got it and set the pace for having every job go wrong somehow.


Lastly got my engine disassembly/assembly area setup. Got a nice table with some thick plastic laid down where I can put all the parts down and write on with a sharpie to keep track of everything. Also have plastic to cover everything between sessions so it doesn't get any dust or stuff on it. Hoping to have it all torn down within a week.
 

smanierre

Autocross Champion
Didn't have much time to work on it today. Got the upper and lower timing covers off though. This is the tensioner after about 60k miles I think, don't think it looks too bad but i'll most likely be replacing the chains so I don't have to pop in again in 40k miles or so.


Everything inside looks relatively clean, I definitely coulda got a better seal on the bottom of the lower cover though. There was a lot more oil grime down there than anywhere else.


This is what my table is gonna look like as I get more parts on it. Nice easy way to keep them clean and organized. All the bolts and stuff are going in sandwich bags and getting labelled with a sharpie. And I got another sheet to keep it all covered and clean.



And my new (very, very old) shop laptop to have all my PDFs out there. Battery lasts like 10 minutes, and the track pad wont actually click, but it shows the manuals and I don't care if it gets destroyed (which it probably will). Hoping to put a lot more work into it tomorrow.
 

uglybastard

Autocross Champion
Also I have an old laptop that works except it has no hard drive. Battery life is meh, but if your laptop shits the bed and you dont want to drop major money it's yours for the price of shipping...
 

smanierre

Autocross Champion
Take a piece of cardboard and put the bolts from one thing all together. Puncturing the cardboard, circle and write what they go to. In case you didn't have an easy system to track such things.
I think i'll be good with the baggy method. I know most of the names of the parts so I should have no issue finding when I need them.
Also I have an old laptop that works except it has no hard drive. Battery life is meh, but if your laptop shits the bed and you dont want to drop major money it's yours for the price of shipping...
This one has been solid for me for a while, the mouse not working is a software issue, hardware wise its good besides the battery. Worst case i'll bring out a raspberry pi with a monitor, mouse, and keyboard to use. I appreciate the offer though.
 

smanierre

Autocross Champion
Had a bit of a delay in my plans since I couldn't find my timing tools from last time I did it. I just ended up buying another set since I'll need it eventually when I go for re-assembly. If you're in CT and need timing stuff, lemme know and you can borrow it. Still don't have the head off but im really close. I just need to get the special poly drive bit to remove the 10 head bolts and it'll be done.

Here's the friction surfaces of the cams and cradle (or whatever it's called). Does that look like normal wear for 165,000 miles? Anything I should do before re-assembly?




Pulled off the intake manifold and 2/4 of the injectors came out with it. It doesn't make much of a differnce to me since they are all getting replaced anyways.


Here's the valves after I think 50k (not 100% sure when I did the valves last). Could definitely use a bit of a cleaning, and hopefully the last time I do it once I get the aux fueling all setup





My collection of parts is coming along nicely too. Hoping I have enough room once I start with the bottom end.
 

smanierre

Autocross Champion

smanierre

Autocross Champion
Popped my top off if you know what i'm saying. Had to wait for the 10mm polydrive socket to come in for the headbolts. They came off easy though and the head pulled right off. Should I be concerned that the valves are white at all?




Here's the cylinder walls, I think they look pretty good for having 165k miles on them. Left these ones a bit bigger so it would be easier to see the walls.




Started on the process of removing the bottom end and realized I may have fucked up a bit. I left the rear main seal on before putting it onto the engine stand. Gonna see if I can get it off while still on the engine stand, but if not i'll figure out some way to get it down from the stand and get the rms off. Did get the oil pan, oil baffle, and oil pump out though.



Gonna also be working on pulling all the accessories off next as well to get it down to the bare block.
 

smanierre

Autocross Champion
So close to having my engine totally torn down. Only things left are the rods/pistons, crankshaft, RMS, and balance shafts. Anyone know what the name is for the socket to get off the connecting rod bolts? Looks like the inverse of the poly drive socket I got for the head bolts, just a bit smaller. This is the only thing at the moment holding me up from getting the rest of the stuff out.




Block as it sits now:




All the accessories off the front:




After I get the engine taken care of I'm gonna figure out how to get rid of the stock calipers on the rear brakes. They are only there for the emergency brake, and I wasn't able to fit the pads in so at this point they are just dead weight and look dumb. Only issue is the bolt that holds on the bracket for the brembo calipers threads into the bracket for the OEM calipers. Gonna see if I can find a bolt with a matching nut to use instead. If anyone needs any MK5/6 R rear calipers let me know.
 

smanierre

Autocross Champion
I'm not sure if the bolts were e-torx or not as the socket was a bit loose on there, but it worked in getting them all off no issue. Here are the bearings from I think cylinder 2, but they all looked pretty identical, no big marks on any of them that I saw.


Here are the skirts on the pistons. Again they all looked pretty similar. The chipped skirt is from me giving it the ejecto seato out of the block onto the ground, wasn't like that in there. Not concerned about it though as i'm replacing the pistons anyways.


I got the main cap bolts out also, but couldn't get the actual caps off, anyone got any suggestions? I also gotta remove the block from the stand and take off the rear main seal before i'll be able to get the crank off though, so that's gonna a fun time. Gonna be more careful now since there are some delicate surfaces exposed.


I'm 99% sure i'm just gonna get it bored out to 83mm just to be safe. It's not too expensive and will give me some peace of mind. Coilovers are getting taken care of first though since those will most likely have the longest turn around time.
 
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