Clutch upgrade questions

[ccramerusc]

I bought a 17' SE about 2 years ago which now has 33k miles. Only mods are JB4, drop in filter, and dogbone (upper and lower). I also did the three normal clutch mods: assist spring delete, flow restrictor delete, and stopper/bumper on the floor. It felt good for about 18 months, but then one day when my wife was driving it, she said that when she went to pull away from a stop sign, the clutch petal stayed stuck to the floor. She hit it a few times and then it came lose and felt normal, but there was a horrible amount of burned clutch smell that lingered for a whole day. I can only guess that there was an air bubble in the slave cylinder that I must not have gotten out when bleeding it after the restrictor delete. Now I notice that the friction point is further out that before, and a bit of slip as the turbo kicks in in 4th or 5th. Obviously time for an upgrade. After much research, I've decided on a Sachs Performance Clutch Kit. I don't plan on increasing power beyond what the JB4 can offer, and I want to keep it close to stock feel and sound, so the Sachs sounds like the best choice for me. Here are my questions:

1. Should I also replace the flywheel given the current slipping and clutch smell from the incident mentioned above, or was all that wear just on the friction disk and pressure plate?
2. I was considering doing it myself, as I am a pretty decent shade tree mechanic, but I've never done a clutch. It seems pretty involved with the VAQ diff. Is this something I should attempt with only jack stands and two jacks, or do you really need a lift? If so, I would need to take it to a shop...
3. Assuming I decide to have it done at a shop, would you recommend a VW dealer, or an independent shop? Would a dealer even do it with aftermarket parts? I'm in Milwaukee in case that matters. In all my years (and cars/motorcycles), I've never taken a car to a shop or dealer other than for recall issues. I've never really trusted them, but if this is over my head, then I guess I'll have to.
4. Anything else I should consider? I do plan on replacing the central slave cylinder as a part of this.

Thanks for any feedback. I really love this car and plan to keep it for a very long time.

 

[JC_451]

If you have an established relationship with the Dealer and know they do good work...

Otherwise, I wouldn't even bother to find out if they would install aftermarket parts for you.

 

[Daks]

Replace the entire kit, flywheel included.
Don't do it yourself - it's a hard job.
Indy shop will charge less.
Some people (myself included) replace the RMS with an upgraded unit - others don't - there is divide on this issue.

 

[shovelhd]

Flywheel - Best determined once the clutch is off. Do you have any judder when engaging? If not, it's probably ok, but now is the time to change it if you're not sure.

A lot of people do this job on jack stands. if you do it yourself, make sure that you find and fix the problem that your wife had. You don't want to trash a new clutch. It's probably the TOB or pressure plate, but be sure.

Dealer or indie - I prefer the indie but some people have better dealers near them than I do.

 

[uberdot]

Don’t pay more than $600 for install if you can help it. I had that same clutch kit and the Luk slave cylinder failed, damaged the disc, and ended up in a destroyed 1st gear synchro (which I have to live with). Hopefully they’ve updated it by now.

All that said, the clutch was starting to slip before that. Fwiw I was on Stage 2 Eurodyne OTS for most of that, which was too torquey of a tune to begin with. If I could have done it over I’d have gone with the RSR or the ACT I have now (son of a bitch grabs for dear life).

 

[ccramerusc]

Thanks for all the feedback. I ordered a Sachs flywheel, pressure plate, clutch plate, and throw out bearing along with an iABED rear main seal. I still want to do it myself since I have the time and tools other than an engine holder, which is only $100. I'm just a bit afraid after watching all the steps on FCP Ero site. So I started shopping around.

My local dealer told me they won't touch anything that's not OEM. I also called a handful of other shops around town and only one will do it with my aftermarket parts. They are a fancy shop that specializes in European cars and tuning, but they are expensive at $1100 for labor (that's 8 hours plus Haldex change). I also reached out to a guy who does a bunch of GTI work in Chicago (90 miles from here) who said he'd do it for $800. I'm not sure $300 is worth the drive and being stuck there all day.

Hard to decide what to do. I really want to try it myself and keep $1000 in my pocket. I have a friend that could help by handing me beers all day...

 

[the]

Don't forget to have an alignment done after.

 

[ccramerusc]

I asked the local guy and the guy in Chicago, and they both told me they would not be removing the subframe, so would I still need an alignment?

 

[jimlloyd40]

I asked the local guy and the guy in Chicago, and they both told me they would not be removing the subframe, so would I still need an alignment?

No

 

[the]

No

I thought the reason an alignment was necessary, was due to the axel being removed early in the process? I didn't have my tires aligned after my clutch install, and it ruined a set of 500s for me. Although, it's completely possible the problem was the tire-shop who did the tire install before my clutch work actually never did an alignment maybe?

Maybe it's also possible my mechanic took some stuff apart that actually wasn't necessary, I just have no idea now. The mystery of the ruined Firehawks.

 

[jimlloyd40]

I thought the reason an alignment was necessary, was due to the axel being removed early in the process? I didn't have my tires aligned after my clutch install, and it ruined a set of 500s for me. Although, it's completely possible the problem was the tire-shop who did the tire install before my clutch work actually never did an alignment maybe?

Maybe it's also possible my mechanic took some stuff apart that actually wasn't necessary, I just have no idea now. The mystery of the ruined Firehawks.

Maybe they removed the subframe.

 

[El_bigote_AJ]

Yeah unbolting the axles at the trans side will not affect your alignment at all. The reason you need them after clutch jobs it’s some techs prefer to lower (just loosen the bolts but not remove it) the subframe to gain extra clearance and not have to clock the housing so much.

 

[GTIfan99]

Yeah unbolting the axles at the trans side will not affect your alignment at all. The reason you need them after clutch jobs it’s some techs prefer to lower (just loosen the bolts but not remove it) the subframe to gain extra clearance and not have to clock the housing so much.

Don't those bolts have to be replaced if you lower the subframe?

 

[El_bigote_AJ]

Don't those bolts have to be replaced if you lower the subframe?

That ones always a fun one with the whole stretch bolt discussion…. Cause those same bolts are what gets loosened during alignments. For them to shimmy and shift your front caster and camber with none adjustable suspension.

 

[ccramerusc]

I've decided to do it myself. I just ordered the rest of the supplies I'll need like Haldex fluid, transmission fluid, replacement bolts for the engine mount, bracket, and dogbone, etc. I'll stop by harbor freight next week to pick up an engine support bar. I think I have all the other necessary tools.

I'll probably hold off until just after new years before doing it since I don't go back to work until mid Jan and will be traveling in late Dec. I unplugged my JB4 and couldn't get it to slip, so I guess that little bit of extra torque is all it needed to push it over the edge. It's amazing how different stock feels after having been used to the JB4 for 18 months.

On a related note, does anyone know if I will need to drain the oil to change the rear main seal?
BTW, I will not be lowing the subframe. I've seen several videos of others wiggling it out of there without removing it.