Stupid Brake pad question..

[Maybematt]

Yesterday, on my way back from big bear, my brakes started squealing like crazy, even low speeds with no brake pressure. Took the caliper off and looked at the pads, the front looks pretty hefty, but the inner pad is almost worn to zero. Is this semi-normal? I see there's only big inner brake pins to push the inner brake pad so it kind of makes sense.
While I decide if I want ebc yellows or hawk hps pads, I had few questions.
1) is it okay to flip the inner and outer pad for now?
2) at 58k miles, should I change rotors as well? I put 5k miles on the car, and the first 53k was driven by previous owner who seems like a tame driver.
3) kind of too lazy to check the rear, but im prop going to keep the rear pads stock. unless y'all advise otherwise?

Edit: when I was was trying to spin the rotor/wheel around, the brakes were dragging. Is that just a "safety feature" with these GTIs, or is something wrong? Was spinning the wheel in neutral, and with the handbrake on.

 

[kevinkar]

My opinion is you should not "flip" pads inside/outside at all since, if you've gone to the trouble to remove the calipers and pads to flip them you might as well replace them. Reusing used parts is not a good idea insofar as personal safety is concerned. Sounds like yours are worn enough to be replaced so I'd toss them and put in a new set.

As for the rotors, only if they are really scored, worn close to or at their limit or warped in some way would you normally replace them. So if they are still good, no need to replace them. Might want to get them resurfaced if there's enough meat left on them. If you're planning on being hard on them though, might as well replace the rotors with something higher performance, slotted/drilled, etc. at the same time you replace the pads.

When I replaced OEM parts on previous cars (Mustang GT, Camaro Z28, Volvo V70R, C6 Corvette) I've always replaced all four.

Are you saying the rear wheels rotated with the handbrake on? That's not right as your hands are way weaker than a 3000lb car and, if your hands can move the wheels, then the handbrake is not working. And, yes, you should be able to feel the pads rubbing on the rotors when you spin the wheels as they are always in contact. Shouldn't be super tight but they should be touching.

 

[Maybematt]

My opinion is you should not "flip" pads inside/outside at all since, if you've gone to the trouble to remove the calipers and pads to flip them you might as well replace them. Reusing used parts is not a good idea insofar as personal safety is concerned. Sounds like yours are worn enough to be replaced so I'd toss them and put in a new set.

As for the rotors, only if they are really scored, worn close to or at their limit or warped in some way would you normally replace them. So if they are still good, no need to replace them. Might want to get them resurfaced if there's enough meat left on them. If you're planning on being hard on them though, might as well replace the rotors with something higher performance, slotted/drilled, etc. at the same time you replace the pads.

When I replaced OEM parts on previous cars (Mustang GT, Camaro Z28, Volvo V70R, C6 Corvette) I've always replaced all four.

Are you saying the rear wheels rotated with the handbrake on? That's not right as your hands are way weaker than a 3000lb car and, if your hands can move the wheels, then the handbrake is not working. And, yes, you should be able to feel the pads rubbing on the rotors when you spin the wheels as they are always in contact. Shouldn't be super tight but they should be touching.

On previous cars I usually changed as a set as well. But the rears still look meaty, and I think they brake sufficiently since the fronts take most of the weight and speed shedding.
Oh no haha, I was talking about spinning the fronts. My handbrake works well enough that I can do a 180 handbrake turn if I want to. Hmm interesting. IIRC, on my old miatas' the wheels were able to be spun without much drama. Normally I'd just change them out myself, but I'ma take it to a local GTI specialist to change the pads/rotors and do a little quality check overall.
For now, I just flipped the pads, and did a test ride. I Would've thrown the pads on if I had them. I normally ride my motor-bike 90% of the time, so I won't be putting many miles on the GTI until after the new brakes are on. Blessing in disguise as I really wanted to chuck the stock tires & brakes asap lol. But too cheap to throw out fresh stuff

 

[Bernb6]

Flipping pads should be fine - it's common practice at the track to even out wear inside to out and left to right (much easier with aftermarket calipers). Inside pads typically wear faster because the inside runs hotter. Of course if a pad is worn out, using it at all is questionable.
Rotor wear is limited by its thickness. As long as it's not damaged or below min tolerance, there's no need to change it.
If you have a front pad that's worn out, you really ought to be checking the rears, including the inside pads. Depending on how much you active stability control, the rears could wear surprisingly fast.
Bern

 

[Maybematt]

Flipping pads should be fine - it's common practice at the track to even out wear inside to out and left to right (much easier with aftermarket calipers). Inside pads typically wear faster because the inside runs hotter. Of course if a pad is worn out, using it at all is questionable.
Rotor wear is limited by its thickness. As long as it's not damaged or below min tolerance, there's no need to change it.
If you have a front pad that's worn out, you really ought to be checking the rears, including the inside pads. Depending on how much you active stability control, the rears could wear surprisingly fast.
Bern

Good to know! The difference between the, front, outer and inner pad is pretty drastic. The inner was about a fingernail wide, and the outside is roughly the thickness of my phone (iirc). I've only done half a track day with this car (about 4x 20-25 min sessions), but there were 2 pretty heavy braking zones (100-40ish), and after 1-2 laps, the brakes felt like mush. To be honest, I sometimes play with hard braking on highway offramps as well..
I don't plan to get any track time in the near future, so if my buddy lets me use his garage, I may just throw on the front pads, and while I'm there, do a check on the rear inner pads. There's no squealing from the rear, but it potentially may follow-up soon.
Is there a quick way to check the inner pads without taking the wheel off?

 

[GIACUser]

Good to know! The difference between the, front, outer and inner pad is pretty drastic. The inner was about a fingernail wide, and the outside is roughly the thickness of my phone (iirc). I've only done half a track day with this car (about 4x 20-25 min sessions), but there were 2 pretty heavy braking zones (100-40ish), and after 1-2 laps, the brakes felt like mush. To be honest, I sometimes play with hard braking on highway offramps as well..
I don't plan to get any track time in the near future, so if my buddy lets me use his garage, I may just throw on the front pads, and while I'm there, do a check on the rear inner pads. There's no squealing from the rear, but it potentially may follow-up soon.
Is there a quick way to check the inner pads without taking the wheel off?

If you wheels allow, you should be able to use a flashlight and and inspection mirror to see both pads.
As you already know probably. Get some better pads and better hi temp fluid and some stainless lines and you brakes will improve greatly for the street. Get some track pads for the front that can handle the heat and they won't turn to mush.

 

[Maybematt]

If you wheels allow, you should be able to use a flashlight and and inspection mirror to see both pads.
As you already know probably. Get some better pads and better hi temp fluid and some stainless lines and you brakes will improve greatly for the street. Get some track pads for the front that can handle the heat and they won't turn to mush.

I think the mirror would be very useful and a good idea. I wasn't able to crank my head enough to see inside the caliper window the other day.
I've always been kind of frugal with spending on myself, unless it was kind of replacing a normal wear item. So everything short of the stainless lines.
I'm hoping the Hawk HPS 5.0s will be sufficient, I used to run the HPS+ on my daily Miata and I was happy with it. Brake dust like crazy, but didn't mind the noise at all.

 

[FlyingNugget]

It's not uncommon for inner pads/rotor to wear faster

I think the mirror would be very useful and a good idea. I wasn't able to crank my head enough to see inside the caliper window the other day.
I've always been kind of frugal with spending on myself, unless it was kind of replacing a normal wear item. So everything short of the stainless lines.
I'm hoping the Hawk HPS 5.0s will be sufficient, I used to run the HPS+ on my daily Miata and I was happy with it. Brake dust like crazy, but didn't mind the noise at all.

You don't need stainless lines. Rubber lines are the norm, are easier to spot damage/leaks, and don't make any difference unless you're going for 11/10s on the track.

HPS will be fine for the street -- may squeak a bit. Also realize this car is astronomically heavier than a miata, so what may have worked for that car, may not work on your GTI.

Yesterday, on my way back from big bear, my brakes started squealing like crazy, even low speeds with no brake pressure. Took the caliper off and looked at the pads, the front looks pretty hefty, but the inner pad is almost worn to zero. Is this semi-normal? I see there's only big inner brake pins to push the inner brake pad so it kind of makes sense.
While I decide if I want ebc yellows or hawk hps pads, I had few questions.
1) is it okay to flip the inner and outer pad for now?
2) at 58k miles, should I change rotors as well? I put 5k miles on the car, and the first 53k was driven by previous owner who seems like a tame driver.
3) kind of too lazy to check the rear, but im prop going to keep the rear pads stock. unless y'all advise otherwise?

Edit: when I was was trying to spin the rotor/wheel around, the brakes were dragging. Is that just a "safety feature" with these GTIs, or is something wrong? Was spinning the wheel in neutral, and with the handbrake on.

Pads dragging on the rotor is normal. If they didn't, your pedal would have a huge dead zone before the brakes engaged.

 

[GIACUser]

I think the mirror would be very useful and a good idea. I wasn't able to crank my head enough to see inside the caliper window the other day.
I've always been kind of frugal with spending on myself, unless it was kind of replacing a normal wear item. So everything short of the stainless lines.
I'm hoping the Hawk HPS 5.0s will be sufficient, I used to run the HPS+ on my daily Miata and I was happy with it. Brake dust like crazy, but didn't mind the noise at all.

Best street pads were Endless, second for me was Hawk 5.0. I ran HP+ but only at track they were obnoxiously loud on my GTI. Myself and others experimented with pads to find most preferred.

I am just about to put 5.0 pads on the R I just acquired. You will be happy with them.

 

[Maybematt]

It's not uncommon for inner pads/rotor to wear faster



You don't need stainless lines. Rubber lines are the norm, are easier to spot damage/leaks, and don't make any difference unless you're going for 11/10s on the track.

HPS will be fine for the street -- may squeak a bit. Also realize this car is astronomically heavier than a miata, so what may have worked for that car, may not work on your GTI.



Pads dragging on the rotor is normal. If they didn't, your pedal would have a huge dead zone before the brakes engaged.

Sounds good to me then! Definitely not pushing for 11/10ths... maybe if/when I upgrade the stock suspension & tires, and can hang with the A group, I'll make the few additional mods. If needed in the future, I'll use the 5.0 as my daily, and get something for serious track use.

Best street pads were Endless, second for me was Hawk 5.0. I ran HP+ but only at track they were obnoxiously loud on my GTI. Myself and others experimented with pads to find most preferred.

I am just about to put 5.0 pads on the R I just acquired. You will be happy with them.

Perfect. Thank you for the tip.
----------------

Also, if anyone in So-Cal is willing and has a garage + time, I'd love to do some wrenching and chatting with y'all. Don't mind paying for the use, and a drink/lunch!

 

[Maybematt]

Got the hawk 5.0 brake pads just now, and the box included a little dongle/cable. What is that for? Extra/accidental add to the box, or something I need to swap out/install? I've only swapped brakes on my bike, and miatas' without fancy tech so idk what it is.

 

[TheMechanicDude]

Wear sensor usually

 

[Maybematt]

Wear sensor usually

Just watched some vids and did some googling. that's correct. dont know if mine has it though (2016 GTI SE non-PP). We'll see when I change them out. Hopefully I can find something in the old garage to push down the piston.

 

[Nineeightyone]

Just watched some vids and did some googling. that's correct. dont know if mine has it though (2016 GTI SE non-PP). We'll see when I change them out. Hopefully I can find something in the old garage to push down the piston.

Metalnerd sells a tool that will do the mk4 rear brakes, I don't know if they're using the same design in the mk7. Either way, if that doesn't work Harbor Freight has a kit that's not terribly priced and has come in handy for me on a couple of cars, OR you can try removing your brake fluid reservoir cap and taking a pair of needle nose pliers to push and turn at the same time, I've had that work in a pinch as well.

 

[nosmirk]

Just watched some vids and did some googling. that's correct. dont know if mine has it though (2016 GTI SE non-PP). We'll see when I change them out. Hopefully I can find something in the old garage to push down the piston.

Autozone loans the piston retracting tool w/ deposit, I think Oreilys does as well. The kit has multiple "heads" (not sure what it is called) for different caliper pistons so one of them should fit. Borrowed it multiple times when I had the MINI.