You're getting a BOV spacer for your MK7 now.. aren't you!?!?!
7
Apr stage 3 is38 problems
- Thread starter aceswld
- Start date
tigeo
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Richmond, VA area
You are for sure, on the previous gen this was an issue but on the MK7, atm venting with a BOV or spacer doesn't cause any issues specifically related to that....but aftermarket bits can always cause other issues (leaking etc.). I ran a spacer for some juvenile BOV noise with no drama but did end up removing it b/c it got annoying TBH. The fatory DV is v. good and I'm not sure how a vacuum operated BOV can ever be faster and venting charge than the electronically controlled unit. Some of the popular BOVs are controlled by the ECU.
Yea theoretically a BOV on these platforms won't cause issues as these cars are fully MAP-based. The issue is the vacuum ones, such as forge are slower than stock, have to be properly adjusted, and require periodic maintenance. All this compared to the stock which people are running 500+hp on with no issues.
There are aftermarket full-electric ones now though, which work just as fast as the stock, but still, require the occasional adjustment/maintenance
There are aftermarket full-electric ones now though, which work just as fast as the stock, but still, require the occasional adjustment/maintenance
Is the forge pneumatic?
That 100% has the potential to cause massive issues with the way the ecu operates to control airflow.
The throttle position has no direct correlation to the pedal. When you let off the pedal, you're asking the ecu to make less power. Sometimes that means keeping the throttle opened and reducing airflow by opening the DV instead. In that scenario, there's no immediate source of vacuum (and so a pneumatic valve won't open). You'll end up with spiking boost pressure as the airflow increases instead of decreases UNTIL the ecu closes the throttle.
That 100% has the potential to cause massive issues with the way the ecu operates to control airflow.
The throttle position has no direct correlation to the pedal. When you let off the pedal, you're asking the ecu to make less power. Sometimes that means keeping the throttle opened and reducing airflow by opening the DV instead. In that scenario, there's no immediate source of vacuum (and so a pneumatic valve won't open). You'll end up with spiking boost pressure as the airflow increases instead of decreases UNTIL the ecu closes the throttle.
Hello, I believe this is a problem with the actual transmission tune, it happens when on WOT near redline and farts for multiple seconds then goes into limp mode, I wouldnt worry about it, i’d say its a problem with the 09g factory tuning. Ive had this happen with jb4 on high FOL as well.Hello all!
This is my first post because ive had this car about a month. I bought it built
Its a 2017 1.8 is38 stage 3 auto.
I have now come across 2 problems.
1) i have had 3-4 incidents of overrevving between shifts causing the est light to pop and loosing power. Its like getting stuck between gears. Its a non dsg but i get a lot of dsg farts normally but when this happens it just farts for like 2 seconds and then boom est light. Every time i pull over turn the car off and back on and its back to normal.
2) I believe i have compressor surge on throttle. I have an forge v2 bov. Sometimes when i step on it a little i hear the turbo flutter while accelerating. This is my first turbo vehicle so its just kinda an assumption that the flutter on acceleration isnt normal. And on top of all that the vehicle is slower than it is when i first bought it but not by much, I suspect a boost leak. Any tips/info would be wonderful i have some friends who say it might be a bad turbo bearing but i really dont want to get a new turbo im happy with the is38. Please help a fellow 1.8er!
Scanner
Ready to race!
- Location
- Whitby, ON
- Car(s)
- 2018 Golf TSI 1.8
Hey aceswld, issue solved? I may have a tip.
I also have the auto 09G transmission on my 2018 7.5. My tune is Uni IS20, which does not have a transmission tune for the 09G. When I did my tune more than a year ago, a few times on D or S mode I've had my rev "stuck between gears" as you've mentioned, at around 6,500 rpm, but no yellow light. So, when doing my pulls, I switch to manual mode and change gears between 6 and 6.5k. Never had the gears stuck since then.
I also have the auto 09G transmission on my 2018 7.5. My tune is Uni IS20, which does not have a transmission tune for the 09G. When I did my tune more than a year ago, a few times on D or S mode I've had my rev "stuck between gears" as you've mentioned, at around 6,500 rpm, but no yellow light. So, when doing my pulls, I switch to manual mode and change gears between 6 and 6.5k. Never had the gears stuck since then.
The issue with the pneumatic not being controlled by the ECU is that it can throw off STFT. Now should that cause any massive issues no, but it can result in worse mpg and a bit of wonkiness when shifting. Never had any issues with a DSG when I had my forge valve, but switched back to stock to clean everything up
TwinDad
Autocross Newbie
- Location
- Fort Lee, NJ
I’m auto. I’m fwd sportwagen with the 09g. I have no issues with shifts in my tune. When I was JB4 only it would slip a little at the shift. You would see the rpms jump a bit and settle in. Now it’s smooth. Slow compared to a dsg, but definitely no hang or slipping. I believe it’s something with the tune and how it’s acting with the torque limiter that the auto has. Not many tuners can successfully get around it properly. I’m is20 on flex fuel with an upgraded hpfp. So the power is there