22mm SuperPro Rear Sway Bar - The Conservative Approach

[Keehs360]

If you want to maintain travel, lower car an inch and cut bump stops an inch. What you're feeling is getting into the bump stops earlier.

Good advice thanks!

 

[xXDavidCXx]

IIRC, front rates are 175 GTI, 219 for R. The R front springs are stock on the CSS.

If you do APR, be sure to cut the bumpstops. I've got to pull everything back off to cut them, because I'm getting into the too quickly under braking and causing understeer. Also, multiple people, including me, have had rear springs a good half inch off side to side. Once installed, they leveled out after one autocross and are dead on now.

What tires and pressures were you running?

 

[GTIfan99]

What tires and pressures were you running?

I am running 245/40 17 RE71R's in both GS and now STH. I never had issues in GS trim at 32 front. When I went to STH, I went down to 30 front, but this last weekend went to 34 psi front, but started the day 35. Had the understeer under braking at all pressures.

I'm also considering it's the brembos and aggressive pads with stock rear pads causing some of the issue.

I'll probably fix both issues.

 

[xXDavidCXx]

I am running 245/40 17 RE71R's in both GS and now STH. I never had issues in GS trim at 32 front. When I went to STH, I went down to 30 front, but this last weekend went to 34 psi front, but started the day 35. Had the understeer under braking at all pressures.

I'm also considering it's the brembos and aggressive pads with stock rear pads causing some of the issue.

I'll probably fix both issues.

Try higher, like 38f/40r, just see what happens

wait, I think you already did and report positive results.

 

[GTIfan99]

Try higher, like 38f/40r, just see what happens

wait, I think you already did and report positive results.

I went from 30 to 35 front. Settled on 34. I think the 17's require a little less pressure than the 18's. 34 felt really good. I might play around and go up to 38 when we use the local road course for events, but our regular site is really bumpy and the car starts getting unsettled by mid corner bumps at 38.

 

[xXDavidCXx]

I went from 30 to 35 front. Settled on 34. I think the 17's require a little less pressure than the 18's. 34 felt really good. I might play around and go up to 38 when we use the local road course for events, but our regular site is really bumpy and the car starts getting unsettled by mid corner bumps at 38.

What are your front rebound settings?

 

[GTIfan99]

What are your front rebound settings?

I'm on stock struts at this point. Been to lazy to install the Konis.

 

[Mr. Conundrum]

I recently installed this same RSB and endlink kit, and I'm pretty happy with the results. The car is way more neutral with slight oversteer if you lift aggressively midcorner. Interestingly, my DCC, PP MK7 GTI had the 21.7x3.6mm RSB, same as the Clubsports.

After a week of driving, and a run in the twisties this weekend, I'm getting a popping sound sometimes from the rear at low speeds. When cornering, there's no creaking or groaning, but navigating a parking lot with gutters and whatnot, sometimes causes a popping sound. It doesn't seem to be related to suspension articulation either, because going through a larger dip at an angle doesn't cause it, but making a slow maneuver into a parking space does. Any ideas?

I did have a bear of a time getting the endlinks down into the control arms, and the poly grommets on each end are kinda distorted because of it.

 

[sloopercat]

I recently installed this same RSB and endlink kit, and I'm pretty happy with the results. The car is way more neutral with slight oversteer if you lift aggressively midcorner. Interestingly, my DCC, PP MK7 GTI had the 21.7x3.6mm RSB, same as the Clubsports.

After a week of driving, and a run in the twisties this weekend, I'm getting a popping sound sometimes from the rear at low speeds. When cornering, there's no creaking or groaning, but navigating a parking lot with gutters and whatnot, sometimes causes a popping sound. It doesn't seem to be related to suspension articulation either, because going through a larger dip at an angle doesn't cause it, but making a slow maneuver into a parking space does. Any ideas?

I did have a bear of a time getting the endlinks down into the control arms, and the poly grommets on each end are kinda distorted because of it.

Clunking sounds are usually end link related.

 

[Koenna]

Yeah check the end link nut which secures the RSB. I had to tighten that one recently and had some similar noises from the back of the car.

 

[theDoktor]

The end link nut has to be tightened with the rear of the car loaded. I use a pair of ramps. Forget about torquing the nut with the bar installed- there is not enough room between the spring and the endlink nut- you have to tighten it with wrenches, but it isn't hard to do.. I had the same problem when I installed my 034 RSB.

 

[IanCH]

Yeah gotta torque the crap out of the nut on the bench before install to make it easier.

 

[Mr. Conundrum]

Thanks for the suggestions. Maybe I'm obtuse here, but when I installed the endlinks on the bar outside car, once the nut reached a certain point it would just spin the assembly and I wasn't able to get it to 25ft-lbs. Unless I'm supposed to remove the boot off the ball joint, I didn't see anything to hold to torque against.

I'll try to torque it with the endlinks installed first. If there really isn't enough room.... (Sigh) I'm going to have to try to get those endlinks out of the arms and they are *wedged* in there. It's going to really suck.

 

[theDoktor]

Yeah gotta torque the crap out of the nut on the bench before install to make it easier.

TORQUING, not "torque the crap out of the nut..." on the bench is the proper way, but will make installation of the tie-rod end-to-subframe bolt a bit more challenging. See attached page from factory service manual on torque spec. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/9b7sfl3r...=D4B80416633-Suspension__Wheels__Steering.pdf

 

[theDoktor]

Thanks for the suggestions. Maybe I'm obtuse here, but when I installed the endlinks on the bar outside car, once the nut reached a certain point it would just spin the assembly and I wasn't able to get it to 25ft-lbs. Unless I'm supposed to remove the boot off the ball joint, I didn't see anything to hold to torque against.

I'll try to torque it with the endlinks installed first. If there really isn't enough room.... (Sigh) I'm going to have to try to get those endlinks out of the arms and they are *wedged* in there. It's going to really suck.

There is a flat on the end link that you need to hold while you tighten the nut. It requires a thin, open-end wrench- 14mm I think. I purchased a set of inexpensive metric thin Capri wrenches from Amazon that work nicely. A standard-thickness wrench will not work.