Update
Got em clean by closing the valves and then picking the largest chunks with tool picks, then vacuuming it out.
Then filled the entire intake port with carb cleaner, let it soak then used wire brushes and the zip tie method the break up everything else, sucked everything out with a shop vac.
Car sputtered a bit on first startup, but now 100% feels faster and I hit peak boost around 1.2 PSI lower
Some tips on how I did it.
Everything can be done without jacking the car up and with basic hand tools, I also have a magic IC which decreases clearance as well
1. I used the ECS tuning throttle body boost tap install guide as a reference for removal. The FCP euro guide has you remove the throttle body separately, which requires the removal of the charge pipe, and more coolant lines. I was able to follow ECS and remove the manifold with it still attached.
2. Go out and buy 3-4 of these bolts
N91089601. They strip easily if you're not careful and it is super easy to drop them. (Dropped 1 stripped 1)
3. The bolts are T-30 make sure you have a long (4-5in) skinny T-30 bit, as there are holes in the manifold to pass a tool through to get them out. A normal socket is too fat (I used a long 4mm Allen socket, ended up stripping one with this though)
4. The fuel fuse in the engine bay fuse box
DOES NOT disable the car from priming the HPFP. Remove the battery. If you have a DSG put it in
neutral before removing the battery.
5. The manifold bracket with the 13mm nut up top and 10 square bottom does not need to be removed. Simply loosen the 10mm square and remove the top nut. You will have enough wiggle in the bracket to get the manifold over it.
6. There is a specific order to retorque the manifold nuts and bolts
7. Disconnecting the line that runs from the reservoir to the hard pipe bolted to the manifold makes your life 10x easier. This isn't mentioned in the ECS guide. Should lose minimal coolant.
8. The
hardest part of the entire install is removing the bottom 17mm an style fitting on the hard HPFP line. This has to come out for the manifold to be removed, you pretty much just have to jam an open-ended wrench in there to get on it. (If you have a skinny or small 17mm wrench this may be easier). This is also the hardest part of reinstallation. Get the manifold on the two studs and then reinstall the fuel line before doing any of the manifold bolts.
9. Remove the spark plugs. This lets you put a 24mm socket on the pully bolt on the serpentine belt and turn the motor over by hand. Also able to do this from above the car.
Really besides that stupid HPFP line (I removed the entire pump to make my life easier), the job wasn't too bad. All the connectors match up pretty easily.
Photo of the T-30 bit needed. (A 4mm Allen one will work in a pinch but you run the risk of stripping)
View attachment 204858
Edit - Easiest way to make sure the valves are closed is to stick something in the empty spark plug hole onto the piston. I used an old plastic gas line yard flag. (Make sure it's clean!) Rotate the engine over by hand. When the flag or whatever it is, is at its highest point aka top dead center, the valves for the cylinder are closed. You should also be turning the engine clockwise but this really shouldn't matter
