Heat kills batteries, not cold. Given the close proximity to the turbo, insulation would be nice. Given the life expectancy of the batteries, it probably doesn't matter.
That's partially true. Heat accelerates the chemical reaction in car batteries while cold slows it down. Accelerating the chemical reaction will speed corrosion of the metal plates, leading to premature failure of the battery. Slowing the chemical reaction reduces the voltage and amperage capacity, leading to inability to start the engine. While it doesn't shorten the life of the battery, it's still pretty inconvenient to be stuck somewhere unable to start your car when it's freezing cold. In So Cal, I understand you don't experience cold start problems, but in cold climates we experience it frequently. It's common enough that most cars here don't leave home without jumper cables in winter.
That's partially true. Heat accelerates the chemical reaction in car batteries while cold slows it down. Accelerating the chemical reaction will speed corrosion of the metal plates, leading to premature failure of the battery. Slowing the chemical reaction reduces the voltage and amperage capacity, leading to inability to start the engine. While it doesn't shorten the life of the battery, it's still pretty inconvenient to be stuck somewhere unable to start your car when it's freezing cold. In So Cal, I understand you don't experience cold start problems, but in cold climates we experience it frequently. It's common enough that most cars here don't leave home without jumper cables in winter.
I was born and raised in Montana. I am more than familiar with cold weather, cars, and batteries. Hot weather is harder on batteries. In cold weather, you usually have some indication that a battery is dying. In the heat, they just fail with little to no warning. They also do not last as long.
Step 3 and 4 here say to depress the pedal and then undo the lines. I'm not sure how that would prevent any brake fluid loss as the lines always have brake fluid in them regardless of pedal position.
Also I'd think keeping the pedal depressed and then opening any fittings would just cause fluid to come gushing out and the pedal to hit the floor.
I think this might count as a dumb question, but anyone else have this issue with their headlight switch? Mine leaks light out the seams like a sieve. It's an OEM euro switch.
I think this might count as a dumb question, but anyone else have this issue with their headlight switch? Mine leaks light out the seams like a sieve. It's an OEM euro switch.
I think this might count as a dumb question, but anyone else have this issue with their headlight switch? Mine leaks light out the seams like a sieve. It's an OEM euro switch.
To be real with u. It’s been a while since I’ve seen a dealer get pissy over one. Since 2006 or 2007. Had a neon srt4 back then. Since then. I’ve had multiple cars. And dealers just haven’t given a F
now if your intake filter chunked off and got sucked in and damaged your turbo. Your outta gas on that one. Obviously
Like Keehs said, I wouldn't worry about it. Do what makes you happy. The drop-in filter works great if you're just looking for some more airflow, and you can do the dremel mod for when you want even more. But since it sounds like you're on stock tune you won't see much of a difference regardless
