Rubber Puck / Dogbone?

[launchd]

Anyone have any experience with 034's dogbone upper and lower puck replacements? I know the forum has an exhaustive amount of threads pertaining to all the inserts and "no subframe drop" solutions for our platform but I'd like to hear folks responses on full dog bone replacements. So far I've found

-034 Street Density Dogbone Mount Pair (upper and lower)

-Racingline/VWR dogbone and pendulum

and of course the complete engine/transmission/dogbone kit from Superpro that's no longer being made

I recently ordered some cpe engine and transmission 55a duro mounts and I wanted to pair them up with a rubber dogbone replacement. Also thinking of upgrading the front sway bar, so while the subframe is down, I figure it would be a good time to get rid of the oem jello dogbone.

I wouldn't use any 034 products, too many people have had negative experiences with them and those pucks look like garbage.

Superpro's pucks look EXACTLY like OEM... voids and all. That also seems like a huge waste of money.

Racingline/VWR's solution was what I was initially going to go with. Seemed to be a solid choice (and only choice) at first. However, it turns out a few people have had some serious issues with them not holding up. Enough to make a very reputable shop stop selling them/installing them. Perhaps still worth considering.

Where does that leave us? With no real options.

I'm running a weirdly modified version of ECE's RS3/TTRS billet & polyurethane mount - it's honestly the best option for a complete replacement solution. How do you install it the correct way? You need to replace your subframe with an A3/S3 aluminum subframe and contact ECE/purchase their S3 mount variant. They don't/won't make an MK7 version, I asked. As it turns out, MK7 owners are cheap and not many manufactures care to make real subframe bushing solutions for our car because there is no market for them. As you found out by browsing these forums, it's all inserts or ways to "improve" the OEM bushings without dropping your subframe. This is also why most MK7 owners have only upgraded their RSB. Hint: They don't all auto cross their cars (rules state one bar can be replaced, RSB is hands down the best choice if only one bar can be replaced for the type of driving you're subjected to in auto cross), they just think a larger RSB/stock FSB is the best solution for their daily driver. Turns out they also avoid dropping their subframes with this way of thinking... winning.

If swapping your subframe isn't an option, I'd honestly run a Powerflex lower/stock upper. While it's not a complete replacement, it's likely your best option in the steel subframe.

Also... If you're going to drop your subframe for any reason, you should install Tyrolsport's deadset kit.

 

[uranorab8]

I wouldn't use any 034 products, too many people have had negative experiences with them and those pucks look like garbage.

Superpro's pucks look EXACTLY like OEM... voids and all. That also seems like a huge waste of money.

Racingline/VWR's solution was what I was initially going to go with. Seemed to be a solid choice (and only choice) at first. However, it turns out a few people have had some serious issues with them not holding up. Enough to make a very reputable shop stop selling them/installing them. Perhaps still worth considering.

Where does that leave us? With no real options.

I'm running a weirdly modified version of ECE's RS3/TTRS billet & polyurethane mount - it's honestly the best option for a complete replacement solution. How do you install it the correct way? You need to replace your subframe with an A3/S3 aluminum subframe and contact ECE/purchase their S3 mount variant. They don't/won't make an MK7 version, I asked. As it turns out, MK7 owners are cheap and not many manufactures care to make real subframe bushing solutions for our car because there is no market for them. As you found out by browsing these forums, it's all inserts or ways to "improve" the OEM bushings without dropping your subframe. This is also why most MK7 owners have only upgraded their RSB. Hint: They don't all auto cross their cars (rules state one bar can be replaced, RSB is hands down the best choice if only one bar can be replaced for the type of driving you're subjected to in auto cross), they just think a larger RSB/stock FSB is the best solution for their daily driver. Turns out they also avoid dropping their subframes with this way of thinking... winning.

If swapping your subframe isn't an option, I'd honestly run a Powerflex lower/stock upper. While it's not a complete replacement, it's likely your best option in the steel subframe.

Also... If you're going to drop your subframe for any reason, you should install Tyrolsport's deadset kit.

Thanks for the insight, I'm thinking I should have bought a RS3 all along, lol. The A3 frame is something I am considering but heard that it may need to be tightened every so often as it can make some noise. Have you experienced any of this? It looks like some folks may have omitted some washers that keeps everything snugged up. I will have to do a deeper dive into this.

 

[launchd]

Thanks for the insight, I'm thinking I should have bought a RS3 all along, lol. The A3 frame is something I am considering but heard that it may need to be tightened every so often as it can make some noise. Have you experienced any of this? It looks like some folks may have omitted some washers that keeps everything snugged up. I will have to do a deeper dive into this.

They likely installed the subframe with OEM bolts (potentially without replacing with new even) instead of using a deadset kit (stainless steel ARP fasteners, bronze alloy concentric locating collars and 6061 T6 billet aluminum subframe brackets with integral locating collars). Again, if you're going to drop your subframe (or replace it), use the deadset kit.

Question: Why would you not upgrade the hardware?
Answer: People are cheap.

I am selling/trading in my GTI once the 2021 RS3 goes on sale in the US