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Prepping for 2020 AutoX: Endlinks, brake fluid, alignment, spacers

aroundomaha

Ready to race!
Location
Nebraska
I'm finishing my 2020 G Street preparations and would welcome insights/thoughts.
  1. Stiffer rear endlinks. My local shop quoted me SuperPro but I can't see any obvious advantage over Moog. (I know Moogs need to be painted)
  2. Higher performance brake fluid replacement. It seems like a no brainer to change out to ATE Type 200 performance brake fluid, especially if I attend EVO.
  3. 5MM spacers front & rear (here are some from Amazon I'm considering). I know this only widens that stance by a smidgeon but why not give it a shot?
  4. Mild autocross alignment. Someone recommended zero front toe with the rear -1.8 camber with .06 toe in.
I got a great deal on a set of used Enkei RPF1 (+48mm offset) 18x7.5 wheels with Bridgestone RE71R tires. I didn't really want 200 UTQ tires for my first full season, but the deal was too good to pass up.

I already have an H&R 26mm rear sway bar (and love it).

The objective is to prep the car while knowing neither it nor me will be nationally competitive. My S doesn't have LSD, and frankly at my driving level it wouldn't matter that much if it did. I'm attending TireRack Starting Line school and may add EVO if phase 1 becomes available over the Summer in my region. I plan to maximize my seat time, learn, and yeah there's that having fun thing.

Floor jack! Anyone used this 1.5 ton aluminum unit from Harbor Freight? ($79)
 
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GTIfan99

Autocross Champion
Location
FL
Just use the spacers on the front if you're using rims with stick offset and that's way too much rear toe in.

I top paxed my region a couple times in my old S with .02 toe out front. Loosen the three top strut bolts, there is 1/8 inch play there to maximize front neg camber. Now loosing the 3 bolts that attach the ball joint to the LCA. There's 1/4 in play there.

Rear .03 toe in, -1.8 camber

26mm H&R rsb and moog links.

I ran 245/40 17 RE71R's at 34psi on 17 x 7.5 Konig Runlites. Your pressures will likely be a couple psi higher with the 18" wheels. Flip your tires mid season and with a non VAQ, spray the tires before run 3 and every run after. XDS without the VAQ really uses the front brakes a lot and will cook brakes, wheels and tires. I melted my center caps, no joke.

I use that same Jack. Remove the Jack pad and get one of those slotted aluminum jack pads.

Profit.
 
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GTIfan99

Autocross Champion
Location
FL
Is you're car DSG or manual?
 

GTIfan99

Autocross Champion
Location
FL
It is DSG.

Nothing wrong with running GS, and you'll have fun, but if you're planning on autocrossing longterm, STH is really the best home for a non VAQ DSG car.

Somemore negative camber in front, a LSD and a tune make these cars so much fun to autocross.

After a year of GS in the 18 S, another in a 19 Rabbit (VAQ kept front tire temps much lower), I've moved to STH with a mild prep, but man is it so much funner to drive. I've dropped a few spots in overall pax from where I normally finish, but I have a grin from ear to ear when I get out of the car now. It just dances around the cones now.
 

aroundomaha

Ready to race!
Location
Nebraska
Just use the spacers on the front if you're using rims with stick offset and that's way too much rear toe in.

I top paxed my region a couple times in my old S with .02 toe out front. Loosen the three top strut bolts, there is 1/8 inch play there to maximize front neg camber. Now loosing the 3 bolts that attach the ball joint to the LCA. There's 1/4 in play there.

Rear .03 toe in, -1.8 camber

26mm H&R rsb and moog links.

I ran 245/40 17 RE71R's at 34psi on 17 x 7.5 Konig Runlites. Your pressures will likely be a couple psi higher with the 18" wheels. Flip your tires mid season and with a non VAQ, spray the tires before run 3 and every run after. XDS without the VAQ really uses the front brakes a lot and will cook brakes, wheels and tires. I melted my center caps, no joke.

I use that same Jack. Remove the Jack pad and get one of those slotted aluminum jack pads.

Profit.
Awesome feedback, exactly what I was hoping to get. I was shopping the Runlites and Hypergrams when the RPF1s fell into my lap. The RPFs are 48mm offset vs 49mm on the stock Austins. I'm looking forward to seeing how removing about 7 pounds of weight per corner changes handling. Weighed the new wheels/tires on a crappy scale and came up with between 39 and 41 pounds per corner.

Are you setting the front camber on your own or is that part of the process at the shop?
 

theDoktor

Go Kart Champion
Location
Buffalo, NY area
Car(s)
2017 GTI Sport
I use that same Jack. Remove the Jack pad and get one of those slotted aluminum jack pads.

Where did you source your aluminum jack pad? (I found and use a steel one for use in the shop).

If you don't have it on your list, add a battery-powered impact wrench and appropriate impact socket.
Another suggestion would be to swap your lug bolts out to studs & nuts. Wheel changes are MUCH quicker and easier.
 

GTIfan99

Autocross Champion
Location
FL
Awesome feedback, exactly what I was hoping to get. I was shopping the Runlites and Hypergrams when the RPF1s fell into my lap. The RPFs are 48mm offset vs 49mm on the stock Austins. I'm looking forward to seeing how removing about 7 pounds of weight per corner changes handling. Weighed the new wheels/tires on a crappy scale and came up with between 39 and 41 pounds per corner.

Are you setting the front camber on your own or is that part of the process at the shop?

Most shops will tell you front camber isn't adjustable, and they're right, so they won't do it. What you're doing is taking advantage of the slop. It's best to just do it yourself with a friend holding the strut in max neg camber when you tighten. Then take to the alignment shop.
 

GTIfan99

Autocross Champion
Location
FL

glitronic

Ready to race!
Location
WA
Car(s)
2018 GTI AutobahnDSG
I don't think upgraded endlinks are necessary for cars at stock ride height. I ran ECS spherical endlinks for a year and they did nothing but get loose and clunky.
Went back to the original OEM endlinks and the car feels great.
 

GTIfan99

Autocross Champion
Location
FL
I don't think upgraded endlinks are necessary for cars at stock ride height. I ran ECS spherical endlinks for a year and they did nothing but get loose and clunky.
Went back to the original OEM endlinks and the car feels great.

Right up until they break.
 

RacingManiac

Drag Race Newbie
Location
MI
Ran 3 seasons on the H&R 26mm on stock plastic endlinks up until I sold the car at 78k miles. Never had any problem with them....
 

aroundomaha

Ready to race!
Location
Nebraska
Ran 3 seasons on the H&R 26mm on stock plastic endlinks up until I sold the car at 78k miles. Never had any problem with them....
I picked up a set of Moog endlinks for $50 and will have them installed. They're basically heavy duty OEM from what I'm told. My stock endlinks have developed some squeaking over the last thousand miles.
 
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