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JB4 Logging, stacking and Map 6 Discussion

0bLiViOuS

Go Kart Champion
Location
Orange County
I've had JB1 on for about 8k miles and JB4 for about 1k. I have not experienced slip ever and my odo is about 10.5k. Driving habits more than anything will help with the longevity, but there's always a point where it will give up. You will want to use map 6 for sure.
 

nonbiodegradable weasel

Ready to race!
Location
US
Why oh why didn't both of you route the data cable the same time you ran the obd2 cable???:eek:
How?

I had to push the ODB2 cable from inside the car to out, then pull the USB end of the data cable from outside to in. The serial port end of the data cable looked too big to push through from the inside. Maybe I didn't make a big enough hole in the grommet? Mine was more of an nipple-like thing that I could invert with my finger. Had to take out the battery, push it into the car, then snip it from the inside.

I'm not looking forward to the multiple WOT runs where I live to fine tune the car. Can you guys provide some Map 6 (absolute) settings to give me a starting point? I know modifications and weather conditions will vary but I was hoping to get some input as to where to begin testing
I second this, although I'm looking for some 92 octane, 6MT-friendly numbers.

I've had JB1 on for about 8k miles and JB4 for about 1k. I have not experienced slip ever and my odo is about 10.5k. Driving habits more than anything will help with the longevity, but there's always a point where it will give up. You will want to use map 6 for sure.
About the same JB1/total mileage here, but I've had JB4 on for 20-30 miles. You seem to know what you are talking about - since it sounds like you are still on the stock clutch, would you mind sharing your map6 numbers?
 

psychonosspaz

Go Kart Champion
Location
PNW
How?



I had to push the ODB2 cable from inside the car to out, then pull the USB end of the data cable from outside to in. The serial port end of the data cable looked too big to push through from the inside. Maybe I didn't make a big enough hole in the grommet? Mine was more of an nipple-like thing that I could invert with my finger. Had to take out the battery, push it into the car, then snip it from the inside.



I second this, although I'm looking for some 92 octane, 6MT-friendly numbers.



About the same JB1/total mileage here, but I've had JB4 on for 20-30 miles. You seem to know what you are talking about - since it sounds like you are still on the stock clutch, would you mind sharing your map6 numbers?



I second that! I would like to upgrade clutch - but the money is crazy!


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0bLiViOuS

Go Kart Champion
Location
Orange County
Here's my current map. It's not fully dialed in since I haven't had any time to log more. The last time I logged it was 73 out to give you an idea of the ambient conditions. I'm also targeting boost versus just adding. My mods are as follows:

6MT
91 octane E25
IE Intake
IE Intercooler
CTS Catless DP
JB4 only

1500 - 12
2000 - 15
2500 - 18
3000 - 20
3500 - 22
4000 - 23
4500 - 23
5000 - 22
5500 - 20
6000 - 19
6500 - 18
7000 - 17
 

themyst

Ready to race!
Location
NYC
Here's my current map. It's not fully dialed in since I haven't had any time to log more. The last time I logged it was 73 out to give you an idea of the ambient conditions. I'm also targeting boost versus just adding. My mods are as follows:

6MT
91 octane E25
IE Intake
IE Intercooler
CTS Catless DP
JB4 only

1500 - 12
2000 - 15
2500 - 18
3000 - 20
3500 - 22
4000 - 23
4500 - 23
5000 - 22
5500 - 20
6000 - 19
6500 - 18
7000 - 17

and your clutch is not slipping? Brave man :)
 

0bLiViOuS

Go Kart Champion
Location
Orange County
Lol nope, I may go IS38 even and pray it holds :D people call me crazy, but if it slips I'm prepared to replace it. I don't go WOT until about 3500 usually and roll into the throttle instead of stabbing it.
 

psychonosspaz

Go Kart Champion
Location
PNW
Lol nope, I may go IS38 even and pray it holds :D people call me crazy, but if it slips I'm prepared to replace it. I don't go WOT until about 3500 usually and roll into the throttle instead of stabbing it.



Is that the biggest clutch killer? I usually only get on it hard after about 3k.....what clutch is the best and most reasonable that you have seen ?


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0bLiViOuS

Go Kart Champion
Location
Orange County
If you're in low gears it's not as bad, but really lugging it in high gears will put unnecessary load on the clutch. Just dont be lazy and diwnshift a couple gears haha

In addition to the stress on the clutch, you need to worry about LSPI:
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Low-speed_pre-ignition

As far as clutch, it's really two categories, ones that keep the stock DMFW and then SMFW. All DMFW clutches are very similar and using basically the same pressure plate, which is the weakness if the clutch (not the disc itself). If I keep a DMFW, I'll probably go with the Sachs clutch. If I go SMFW, probably South Bend Stage 3 daily. The difference (simplified) more or less chatter. My wife won't want it sounding like a diesel so until I hear a stage 3 in person, I'm trying to make my stock one last so I can make up my mind lol
 

jerodbroten

Ready to race!
Location
Oahu
Waiting for mine to hit Hawaii. What do you think some starting numbers for my mods and only 92 octane would be? (I know, I know-logs)
 

psychonosspaz

Go Kart Champion
Location
PNW
If you're in low gears it's not as bad, but really lugging it in high gears will put unnecessary load on the clutch. Just dont be lazy and diwnshift a couple gears haha

In addition to the stress on the clutch, you need to worry about LSPI:
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Low-speed_pre-ignition

As far as clutch, it's really two categories, ones that keep the stock DMFW and then SMFW. All DMFW clutches are very similar and using basically the same pressure plate, which is the weakness if the clutch (not the disc itself). If I keep a DMFW, I'll probably go with the Sachs clutch. If I go SMFW, probably South Bend Stage 3 daily. The difference (simplified) more or less chatter. My wife won't want it sounding like a diesel so until I hear a stage 3 in person, I'm trying to make my stock one last so I can make up my mind lol



Sachs looks good at 550 bucks, but only holding 400 lb/ft - is that enough with iS38? Also how much would that cost to install?


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Perry01

Ready to race!
Location
Hawaii and Utah
Waiting for mine to hit Hawaii. What do you think some starting numbers for my mods and only 92 octane would be? (I know, I know-logs)

I'm in Hawaii too and will do some logs and post them up soon.
 

jerodbroten

Ready to race!
Location
Oahu

George Smooth

Drag Race Newbie
Location
South Africa
From George "Its additive based. 5.4 peak at the top."

That means needs to be combined wth ethanol blend no?

You can use to get a baseline boost curve and move to map 6. On our car it worked fine on 91 and no mods as well as others.
We need to in general start forgetting what worked with the JB1 and maybe use those values as a starting point.
 

0bLiViOuS

Go Kart Champion
Location
Orange County
Sachs looks good at 550 bucks, but only holding 400 lb/ft - is that enough with iS38? Also how much would that cost to install?


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They rate it conservative. They're all using the TTRS pressure plate but that it my one concern with it. It can handle IS38, but for how long and not much headroom. I've debated skipping IS38 and going straight gtx3071 low boost too lol
 

themyst

Ready to race!
Location
NYC
You can use to get a baseline boost curve and move to map 6. On our car it worked fine on 91 and no mods as well as others.
We need to in general start forgetting what worked with the JB1 and maybe use those values as a starting point.

i think 6.0 will log just fine on 93 octane. might even be able to take more than that.
 
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