need engine builder recommendations

[MSH]

I don't think you can go wrong with BBT, FFE or Pagparts. I've received quotes from all of them at one time or another over the past year. The most recent was Thomas and I spoke with him at length on the phone. At this point he is my choice....he's also the closest to me seeing I'm in CO and he's AZ.
He's definitely the least expensive. FFE and Arnold were pretty close on what they quoted $ wise.
On IE I'm pretty sure they ended their built engine program at least a year ago if not more....as mentioned lots of issues with their builds have been documented.

@Daily Driver Here's BBT's Stage 1 build, which is honestly what I would go with as I'm not after a monster 600-650+ build. (he sent me stage 2 & 3 quotes as well)He does some mild porting of the head...

 

[JerseyDrew77]

What's the average cost and turnaround time going to a shop? Is it usually a 2 week process?

FFE and PagParts are both 10 min from me.

FFE worked on my MK5 which I regret ever selling it.

PagParts does great work I been there for my MK7 a few times but it's one man handling a ton of work and orders. So there's longer than usual wait times.

Like others have said, it depends on the shop and how many are working there. My build to 3 months with 2 people working on it for the majority of the time, which was over a year ago. If FFE and PagParts are that close, then go with either one. Personally, I would go with FFE as they rebuilt my transmission, which is awesome now, and have more than one person working there.

 

[j255c]

Howd it blow?

 

[Rare Ara S3]

I don't think you can go wrong with BBT, FFE or Pagparts. I've received quotes from all of them at one time or another over the past year. The most recent was Thomas and I spoke with him at length on the phone. At this point he is my choice....he's also the closest to me seeing I'm in CO and he's AZ.
He's definitely the least expensive. FFE and Arnold were pretty close on what they quoted $ wise.
On IE I'm pretty sure they ended their built engine program at least a year ago if not more....as mentioned lots of issues with their builds have been documented.

@Daily Driver Here's BBT's Stage 1 build, which is honestly what I would go with as I'm not after a monster 600-650+ build. (he sent me stage 2 & 3 quotes as well)He does some mild porting of the head...

View attachment 265906

Thanks for this info. I’m not happy with my IE pistons though. Noisy AF and sounds like a diesel until warmed up.

 

[MSH]

Thanks for this info. I’m not happy with my IE pistons though. Noisy AF and sounds like a diesel until warmed up.

Thomas does builds with both JE and the Mahle IE pistons if you prefer the JE's. My understanding with the 4032 alloy in the Mahle pistons vs the 2618 alloy in the JE's that the 2618's will expand more so need to be built looser (more piston to cylinder wall gap). The 4032 is typically better in a more daily/street driven mild build (which is why the Mahles are my preference) while the JEs with the 2618 alloy pistons are stronger and better suited to your big hp builds. Downside is the 2618 pistons are more noisy on start up. Again, from my understanding, if you are going to use the 4032 alloy pistons like the Mahles its critical that the clearances be really tight to avoid the slap on start up as that alloy doesn't expand like the 2618.

Edit - Just found this on JE's website on 2618 vs 4032. To my knowledge JE only makes pistons for our platform in 2618, but this at least provides some very detailed info on 2618 vs 4032 if you want to geek out ---> https://auto.jepistons.com/blog/2618-vs.-4032-material-differences

 

[JerseyDrew77]

Thanks for this info. I’m not happy with my IE pistons though. Noisy AF and sounds like a diesel until warmed up.

You shouldn't have piston slap. I have Mahle pistons and have zero slap. Your builder must not have followed the instructions from Mahle.

Thomas does builds with both JE and the Mahle IE pistons if you prefer the JE's. My understanding with the 4032 alloy in the Mahle pistons vs the 2618 alloy in the JE's that the 2618's will expand more so need to be built looser (more piston to cylinder wall gap). The 4032 is typically better in a more daily/street driven mild build (which is why the Mahles are my preference) while the JEs with the 2618 alloy pistons are stronger and better suited to your big hp builds. Downside is the 2618 pistons are more noisy on start up. Again, from my understanding, if you are going to use the 4032 alloy pistons like the Mahles its critical that the clearances be really tight to avoid the slap on start up as that alloy doesn't expand like the 2618.

Edit - Just found this on JE's website on 2618 vs 4032. To my knowledge JE only makes pistons for our platform in 2618, but this at least provides some very detailed info on 2618 vs 4032 if you want to geek out ---> https://auto.jepistons.com/blog/2618-vs.-4032-material-differences

Yes, you are half correct. P2W clearance is crucial AND you also have to grind the piston rings gap to the correct specs in order to avoid piston slap. Now as far as the alloy in both pistons, the Mahle are fine for racing with our vehicles. The 2618 pistons are for those extreme conditions, like 100 psi of boost and thousands of horsepower, which our vehicles will never see.

 

[Rare Ara S3]

You shouldn't have piston slap. I have Mahle pistons and have zero slap. Your builder must not have followed the instructions from Mahle.


Yes, you are half correct. P2W clearance is crucial AND you also have to grind the piston rings gap to the correct specs in order to avoid piston slap. Now as far as the alloy in both pistons, the Mahle are fine for racing with our vehicles. The 2618 pistons are for those extreme conditions, like 100 psi of boost and thousands of horsepower, which our vehicles will never see.

Wouldn’t this be the machine shop’s responsibility? Perhaps they saw forged piston and thought they’d done a million of them so tossed the instructions

 

[Kdubya]

Just by a built motor rated at 600 hp

https://www.bar-tek-tuning.com/race-engine-600-hp-2-0-l-tsi-ea888-gen3

… in all seriousness, sorry bout your motor

 

[Daily Driver]

Just by a built motor rated at 600 hp

https://www.bar-tek-tuning.com/race-engine-600-hp-2-0-l-tsi-ea888-gen3

… in all seriousness, sorry bout your motor

I was thinking about this in the future. To purchase a built motor or a 2nd motor and have that built, then just swap mine over. It would save time for sure.

 

[Rare Ara S3]

Just by a built motor rated at 600 hp

https://www.bar-tek-tuning.com/race-engine-600-hp-2-0-l-tsi-ea888-gen3

… in all seriousness, sorry bout your motor

Didn’t know those existed. Nice option. Wonder how many people run those with good results.

 

[Kdubya]

Didn’t know those existed. Nice option. Wonder how many people run those with good results.

No idea- but I’m thinking future plans.. like i know a master VW mechanic and he may be interested in building a motor, but i know no one in this area (NW FL) that i would trust to really build a motor. For me, i want To build, turn key, and go- no constant turning wrenches.. it’s why I’m kinda stuck on which route to take. Being stage one APR. High Torque file, the power is there but i can’t use it on the street driving around “responsibly ” lol- i would Be curious the dependability on this Crate motor.

 

[El_bigote_AJ]

Just by a built motor rated at 600 hp

https://www.bar-tek-tuning.com/race-engine-600-hp-2-0-l-tsi-ea888-gen3

… in all seriousness, sorry bout your motor

If you read through that.. it still reads as it’s not just a crate motor, you still have to give a core for that price.

 

[Kdubya]

If you read through that.. it still reads as it’s not just a crate motor, you still have to give a core for that price.

I’d be okay with trading motor for motor if it was dependable

 

[scrllock]

Just by a built motor rated at 600 hp

https://www.bar-tek-tuning.com/race-engine-600-hp-2-0-l-tsi-ea888-gen3

… in all seriousness, sorry bout your motor

After seeing how shit the machining on a simple adapter from bar-tek was, no way I'd trust them with a motor build. Get that shit done somewhere local where you can make sure your warranty is worth something. They're basically the ECS of germany lol

 

[Kdubya]

After seeing how shit the machining on a simple adapter from bar-tek was, no way I'd trust them with a motor build. Get that shit done somewhere local where you can make sure your warranty is worth something. They're basically the ECS of germany lol

Oh shit, for real? that sucks