Good start for Stock upgrade

[tigeo]

Someohow I sent the hell out of my car on a stage 1 and with the IS20 (1.8 wagon) on the stock IC (same as the GTI)...it's just not great for hammering runs one after the other with no break or sustained high-RPM track/mountiain use - does this even matter to the OP? Driving around "normally" it makes little difference in the IAT-ambient based on my logging etc. I have an upgraded IC now that I have an IS38 but before, I don't think it's as big of a deal that folks make it out to be with a stage 1 tune.

 

[Kdubya]

I have a 2017 GTI sport 6MT.

i bought the car at 37k with plans in mind to modify it. The current mods i have are below and I’m at 43k now.

k and n drop in with snow grate removed​

034 motor sports intake pipe​

034 motor sports lower dog bone insert​

APR stage 1 93 octane low torque​

BFI clutch stop​

APR coils​

The reason why I’m listing these for you is because one: i can Spin 1st, 2nd and third at will when i want to, that being said I’m not sure if your a DSG or MT. I highly Recommend investing in tires (I’m doing this is March). I do Regret not getting them sooner but hey, lessons learned.

Also, intercooler, i do spend a lot of time reading on here: GTI Jake makes an intercooler kit that is well made, as well as ARM (it’s a FMIC that you can choose colors and stencil if that’s your thing) , and the Forge twintercooler. There are others that are factory replacement but the labor is a bitch as far as i can Tell. I am Getting my intercooler shortly after i get the car back from the body shop. It’s being dropped off next week after being hit back in November. Living in FL, i want To have it before spring and summer hits because anything last 75• degrees, these cars start pulling timing - i can Feel it, others will tell you that.

Im personally on the fence about going to the next stage - why? Cause the car is fun as it sits but i also Cannot use its % potential due to being on stock clutch.

with all That being said, welcome to the forum. The guy/girls on here are all informative and respectful (my experience.) everyone has there own opinions about things and/or mods but tires, intercooler and stage one is fun- - but like above, your going to want more. I already do but I’m going into the next price range so it’s going to take longer to get things done. Enjoy!

VAGiSLife

 

[CSI7]

Thank you all. I have been reading more and gathering more info. I am coming from non turbo set up. Had a 1993 Acura legend . It seems the GTI mod is endless lol. I am thinking Downpipe, intercooler, tune, tires, swaybar, tires and Dogbone to start with. I am not convineced in the intake mod yet. Cat back am planning to do last. What do you all think.

 

[Desslok]

A downpipe makes more sound than power and can involve complications with emission testing.
You'll get more sound, but maybe 15hp. For a stock turbo, the cost/benefit ratio isn't all that great.

 

[uberdot]

First thing you should do with any VW is lower it immediately

 

[tigeo]

Thank you all. I have been reading more and gathering more info. I am coming from non turbo set up. Had a 1993 Acura legend . It seems the GTI mod is endless lol. I am thinking Downpipe, intercooler, tune, tires, swaybar, tires and Dogbone to start with. I am not convineced in the intake mod yet. Cat back am planning to do last. What do you all think.

That sounds like a good game plan - wait until you get a stage 1 tune....it will be quite shocking the amount of power it adds. The nice thing is it's so modular so do that, focus on tires etc. then you can always do the stage 2/DP/IC bits.

 

[scrllock]

Avoid tunes from 034, Unitronic, IE and APR, none of them are particularly good on this platform. Buy a used Cobb AP and pick up an OTS tune from Strat or EQT. You can easily get the cost of the AP back when you sell it--you'll be lucky to sell the dongle from the others at all.

Before you touch the tune, get some real wheels/tires, then throw on a lower subframe mount insert and a rear sway bar for HaNdLiNg.

Dunno about emissions where you are but a downpipe and intercooler are very worthwhile for power. Switching out the airbox and muffler is for sound until you're in the 500+hp range.

Most of the stuff sold for these cars is overpriced garbage. Loads of people will sell you stuff to turn your FWD econo-hatch into a racecar, but plenty of people actually racing these just have brakes, coilovers, wheels and tires.

 

[mrmatto]

Avoid tunes from 034, Unitronic, IE and APR, none of them are particularly good on this platform.

That’s nonsense.

 

[scrllock]

That’s nonsense.

They're all garbage. Ask for logs. Dealer models and overpriced proprietary dongles everywhere.

 

[mrmatto]

They're all garbage. Ask for logs. Dealer models and overpriced proprietary dongles everywhere.

Dude you can get an APR tune for $500 + less than an hour of dealer labor. And they’re one of the most experienced in that list. It’s ok to have a tuner preference, but at least give the guy correct info.

Edit: and some dealers flash Uni too so you don’t need their dongle either

 

[jimlloyd40]

Dude you can get an APR tune for $500 + less than an hour of dealer labor. And they’re one of the most experienced in that list. It’s ok to have a tuner preference, but at least give the guy correct info.

You are correct. There's nothing wrong with APR at all. For me I went with Cobb so I can flash my tunes at home and for the choice of tuners. And I can sell the AP if I want to recover some cost. I didn't go with APR because I would have to go to a dealer for tuning that I couldn't sell if I wanted to switch.

 

[CSI7]

That sounds like a good game plan - wait until you get a stage 1 tune....it will be quite shocking the amount of power it adds. The nice thing is it's so modular so do that, focus on tires etc. then you can always do the stage 2/DP/IC bits.

So no need to do the IC and down pipe for a stage 1 ? How about clutch should i keep it stock for stage 1 ?

 

[jimlloyd40]

So no need to do the IC and down pipe for a stage 1 ? How about clutch should i keep it stock for stage 1 ?

You should do the IC even if you are staying stock period. You don't have to do the DP and most guys will use the stock clutch until it starts slipping and then upgrade.

 

[SnailPower]

So no need to do the IC and down pipe for a stage 1 ? How about clutch should i keep it stock for stage 1 ?

I was in your boat a year ago from now. Sounds like you're also a MANual so you're also in the same situation as myself. I flashed to APR Stg1 April last year. I stayed on stock IC and have yet to upgrade it. Since I never really beat on it much and I have a short commute, I never experienced much heat soak or if I did, I didn't really notice it. Although I still do plan on upgrading IC. It was just with winter coming around after surviving the summer, I thought, well I'm putting on snow tires, the weather is getting cooler, IC can wait until next summer.

At this point, I can tell you Stg1 has some real good pop. I went with APR because I wanted something quick and hassle free. Stg1 will give you that and you do not need downpipes or intakes. You just flash and go. Inspection safe. I will say, like others, tires are a must. Mine are nearly toast that came with the car and I'm happy because I'm going with strict summer set come this Spring. You're probably wondering how the clutch is holding up thus far, well since like I said, I don't punch it every chance I get and really haven't driven as much since I work a lot remotely, my clutch feels about the same as when I got it. I'm sure it will end up wearing soon but I'll wait until then where I see more obvious symptoms. Just keep in your mind that you will eventually have to upgrade the clutch. It will be inevitable. You're gaining nearly 100hp over stock with stg1... The stock clutch wasn't designed with that in mind...

 

[tigeo]

So no need to do the IC and down pipe for a stage 1 ? How about clutch should i keep it stock for stage 1 ?

No DP for stage 1 - it also won't hurt anything to run one but the whole point of "stage 2" (which is really code word in the MK87 world for "downpipe tune") is the DP and dealing with the CEL either from the high-flow cat or if you are catless (I don't hink folks should run catless but I'm not the upgrade police). There is a plethora of internet lore about running DPs with a tune for it - I call BS on all of it on the MK7...won't lean out, won't have drama but just isn't optimized. All those JB4 guys running DPs and no issues. Intakes and ICs can be added with a stage 1 tune for help optimize it but my opinion continues to be - not really necessary and will be based on where you live (temps) and how you drive (are you doing back-to-back bam bam bam rOLl RACes for IG fame or just driving like a normal human around town. I have a DSG but the consensus seems to be that with Stage 1 and driving it properly (not lugging it/heavy throttle at low RPMs/too high a gear) your stock clutch can work.