P0413 code

[tigeo]

Update. Mine was the wiring harness this go around. I was getting the CEL and decided to output test the valve and noted it wasn't cycling. I just reached in and touched the wiring harness/pressure sensor and whala! It started cycling again. I just placed a zip tie around the harness beside the charge pipe and it hasn't come back.

 

[nkresho]

Funny you mention that.

I got the code back as well with a new combination valve. Gotta be the third or fourth I've done. Yesterday i unplugged the electrical connection at the valve and checked it. Car side was a little dirty looking. Wiped it off and plugged it back in, tight. It's almost like boost pressure sent some gunk from inside into the plug. It took some pressure to get the little gasket to compress. Just a little dirty, but it wasn't clean, for sure.

I vote wiring also. I get the code while the car is moving. I've seen the cel come on at least twice while in motion.

 

[tigeo]

Funny you mention that.

I got the code back as well with a new combination valve. Gotta be the third or fourth I've done. Yesterday i unplugged the electrical connection at the valve and checked it. Car side was a little dirty looking. Wiped it off and plugged it back in, tight. It's almost like boost pressure sent some gunk from inside into the plug. It took some pressure to get the little gasket to compress. Just a little dirty, but it wasn't clean, for sure.

I vote wiring also. I get the code while the car is moving. I've seen the cel come on at least twice while in motion.

Exactly...always when the motor bucked around under hard acceleration.

 

[KingOfSpades007]

Chiming in here as I'm recently experiencing this issue. I actually put together a how-to on getting to the valve over on the other forum, as I didn't see anything that seemed to address changing that valve out on the MK7 with photos.

On cold starts, I have been polling the (4) options under the "secondary" search term, in the engine module section, as well as EGT pre-cat, and noted that the system didn't run this morning. I replaced the valve last night and confirmed operation then, but I'd read under a different model that this system might not always run on cold start (not sure that would make sense) so I'm going to drive around and continue to monitor the system during cold starts to see if I can correlate what the system needs to prove out for operation. Further, if the CEL comes back, I am inclined to believe your guys' most recent train of thoughts, that it could be the wiring as opposed to the valve.

I tested both valves last night with things apart too, and saw no difference in the actuation between the -K rev (OG valve to my car) and -AA rev. Curious to tear into the old one to see if I can find something that's worn. I'm going to take a screen recording while monitoring my coworker's MK7.5 GTI at lunch and see if his system is operating any differently. This evening after work, I am going to try and run the actuation test, and wiggle wires around with a set of long needlenose pliers to see if there's a loose wire in that system. Will report back with findings.

I would like to try and figure out the permissions for the system to run. I assume cat-temp based, and also the ECU on KOnEoff pulses the kombi valve for operation. Upon start, if the kombi valve actuated as intended, it'll run the system, since it knows it won't blow apart the tube running from the SAI pump to the kombi valve. I don't know if there is a pressure relief built in to the system or not,. The solenoid is "pushed out" on actuation, so maybe that's the fail-safe in case the solenoid fails to open/actuate.

I will vouch that twice I have also seen the code on whilst driving. Neither time did the light come on immediately after the pump "failed" to run. Maybe the CEL we see is coincidental based on the OBD test-cycle?

 

[tigeo]

Chiming in here as I'm recently experiencing this issue. I actually put together a how-to on getting to the valve over on the other forum, as I didn't see anything that seemed to address changing that valve out on the MK7 with photos.

On cold starts, I have been polling the (4) options under the "secondary" search term, in the engine module section, as well as EGT pre-cat, and noted that the system didn't run this morning. I replaced the valve last night and confirmed operation then, but I'd read under a different model that this system might not always run on cold start (not sure that would make sense) so I'm going to drive around and continue to monitor the system during cold starts to see if I can correlate what the system needs to prove out for operation. Further, if the CEL comes back, I am inclined to believe your guys' most recent train of thoughts, that it could be the wiring as opposed to the valve.

I tested both valves last night with things apart too, and saw no difference in the actuation between the -K rev (OG valve to my car) and -AA rev. Curious to tear into the old one to see if I can find something that's worn. I'm going to take a screen recording while monitoring my coworker's MK7.5 GTI at lunch and see if his system is operating any differently. This evening after work, I am going to try and run the actuation test, and wiggle wires around with a set of long needlenose pliers to see if there's a loose wire in that system. Will report back with findings.

I would like to try and figure out the permissions for the system to run. I assume cat-temp based, and also the ECU on KOnEoff pulses the kombi valve for operation. Upon start, if the kombi valve actuated as intended, it'll run the system, since it knows it won't blow apart the tube running from the SAI pump to the kombi valve. I don't know if there is a pressure relief built in to the system or not,. The solenoid is "pushed out" on actuation, so maybe that's the fail-safe in case the solenoid fails to open/actuate.

I will vouch that twice I have also seen the code on whilst driving. Neither time did the light come on immediately after the pump "failed" to run. Maybe the CEL we see is coincidental based on the OBD test-cycle?

You can do a output test on the valve and pump with the igntion on/not running.

 

[KingOfSpades007]

You can do a output test on the valve and pump with the igntion on/not running.

Apologies if it didn't come across in my post, I ran that output test last night with things apart to visually observe things, and confirmed that both valves were actuating the same way. This was to try and understand whether it would have been that the valve itself has failed, or if it could possibly have been something else.

I've ran the test with everything together a handful of times over the past week and haven't had any issues with the valve not actuating when I've run that output test. I've done the same thing with the pump too. Both the pump and valve seem to run just fine using the output tests available.

 

[tigeo]

Apologies if it didn't come across in my post, I ran that output test last night with things apart to visually observe things, and confirmed that both valves were actuating the same way. This was to try and understand whether it would have been that the valve itself has failed, or if it could possibly have been something else.

I've ran the test with everything together a handful of times over the past week and haven't had any issues with the valve not actuating when I've run that output test. I've done the same thing with the pump too. Both the pump and valve seem to run just fine using the output tests available.

When mine wasn't actuating during the output test, I touched the harness and it started working again...that's how I figured out the issue.

 

[KingOfSpades007]

When mine wasn't actuating during the output test, I touched the harness and it started working again...that's how I figured out the issue.

Cheers for that. I'll have a wiggle around later. Of course I should have read better (post 79) and would have known that's how you diag'd that. I'll see if I can confirm a similar situation.

 

[tigeo]

Cheers for that. I'll have a wiggle around later. Of course I should have read better (post 79) and would have known that's how you diag'd that. I'll see if I can confirm a similar situation.

Curious about your results!

 

[KingOfSpades007]

Well, I had a wiggle around this evening and found nothing seemed to cut actuation of the solenoid during the solenoid output test, short of unplugging it. Didn't bother recording much of that. It was me poking and prodding around the wires that go to the sensor and kombi valve, with no change throughout the test.

Checked voltage on the two wires going to the kombi valve: 12.3#V on one wire, 2.5#V on the other. Not sure if the other wire should be at ground, or not. I didn't check to see if that 2.5#V drops to zero upon actuation - that might make sense?

In any rate, I'm not sure where to go from here. I manually actuated the SAI pump relay in the fuse box, and also through the output test, and there seemed to be no change in operation there. If I monitor the sensor values when actuating the pump via the relay, they climb from the 14.4# to 18#, but I was not able to also monitor the change in pressure when the kombi valve actuates.

At this point, maybe I'd be wise to get ahold of my mate's MK7.5 GTI, and see if his kombi valve is also at 12.3/2.5V at the pigtail.

I'm going to remain hands-off for the next week, and let the car figure out if it wants to throw a code again. For all three cold starts today, I did not see the SAI system running through OBDEleven. I went out at lunch and also monitored the same sensors on my coworker's MK7.5 GTI, and his system ran as I would have expected.

One last thought before I sign off - 'Exhaust temperature 1 bank 1' is the sensor to poll instead of the pre-cat temp. I saw a difference of 550degF between my non-op system, and coworker's operational system today. Barring being able to fix the blasted system, I wonder if there's a value that can be adjusted to allow a lower temperature to meet the threshold.

Sorry for the wall of text, by the way. I am admittedly enjoying trying to narrow down the cause and solution to this issue, and it's nice to be able to converse with others who've experienced a similar issue.

 

[nkresho]

Here's mine.

If i were not trading in the car, i think i would buy a replacement connector for the plug to the sai.

plug says 4F0 973 702 A

https://parts.vw.com/p/Volkswagen__/HOUSING/74016812/4F0973702.html

 

[Diggs24]

Seems like a common issue. I think that is what happened to mine. I just took the system out, lol.

 

[nkresho]

I removed the connector (gotta remove the tiny little pink slider), stripped back about an inch of the insulation from each lead, and soldered both wires up to the crimped part, then heatshrinked and put it all back together.

Ran the test again wiggling the wires in every direction.

rock solid. Clicked the whole time the test is running now.

 

[KingOfSpades007]

@nkresho; that's what I expected to see happen with mine, and I was going to make the assumption that, if that was a common thing, the only reason the new kombi valve fixed the issue, is because in reality, the wires were the issue. Glad you were able to sort it out, and hope whatever you're moving onto treats you well.

@Diggs24; did you have the code masked/whatever so you're not seeing a CEL? If mine comes back, I may go that route.

I'm loathe to suggest that I believe my kombi valve actually failed, because I never saw the pressure sensor show above 14.4# when the system wasn't active and the car was running. I would expect a different code, maybe, for an overpressure issue if that were the case. The fact that the tests check out fine, both on the old valve and new valve, don't really make sense to me.

Like I said, I'll monitor and report back. The only other thing I have going on is the need to do a carbon cleaning soon, but I'm not confident that could cause this issue, surely?

 

[daconchslop]

#deleteallSAI