MK7 "Random / "Stupid" Questions Thread"

[jimlloyd40]

Just crossed 40k so it's time for spark plugs

First...coil puller? Is it really that hard to pull the coils without this?

Also outside of looking cool are the APR coils worth the near $100 difference to say these from usp?

https://www.uspmotorsports.com/Lage...vice-Kit-Red-Coil-Pack-For-VW-Audi-Gen-3.html

The coils are easier to remove if the engine is warm. The APR coils cost close to the same as OEM but if your coils are okay they are a waste of money.

 

[dtfd]

You won't need a coil puller. Just get the engine up to operating temp before pulling them off and they'll slide right out.

Thanks. That's what I figured I would do (like with most every other car) but I was surprised to see either the popularity of coil pullers or the effective marketing that makes them seem popular

 

[Subliminal]

Thanks. That's what I figured I would do (like with most every other car) but I was surprised to see either the popularity of coil pullers or the effective marketing that makes them seem popular

A backup coil or two wouldn't have to hurt to have just in case. I pulled a coil and discovered it had sh*t out a spring that latched itself onto the plug and required to be yanked out /w a pick. Couldn't drive the car until the next day later after O'Reillys delivered a new coil.

 

[dtfd]

The coils are easier to remove if the engine is warm. The APR coils cost close to the same as OEM but if your coils are okay they are a waste of money.

I'm half expecting to not be able to reuse my coils, normally caused by my ape-like delicacy and penchant for swearing my way through every job I do. (And yet I enjoy that)
With it being my daily an extra $100 for new coils is cheaper than the cost of a Uber to/from work and guarantees I'll have a working car.

 

[jimlloyd40]

I'm half expecting to not be able to reuse my coils, normally caused by my ape-like delicacy and penchant for swearing my way through every job I do. (And yet I enjoy that)
With it being my daily an extra $100 for new coils is cheaper than the cost of a Uber to/from work and guarantees I'll have a working car.

If you are going to get back up coils the APR coils are the ones to get. And they cost the same as OEM. Just don't expect any extra power because of them.

 

[Treadup]

In that case, lol

https://www.killallwipers.com/

There one you may have not seen since it’s not advertised on the bigger online sellers.

Its one of the most discrete and flush options out there (as discrete as a delete can be that is, lol. Since no matter what it’s visible that a wiper should be there).

Also it’s one of the mods that get the “ONly fUNctIOnaL MoD CAn bE dOnE to someone else’s car is approved around here” type lol.

View attachment 220039View attachment 220040

I like this mod as it looks clean. Today was a good test as it was a torrential downpour on the way to work. Didn’t feel the need to use my rear wiper once.

 

[Grey Hare1]

I suspect that you are the stage where you want to decide what you don't like about the car and then decide how to "fix"it.

Here are a couple of posts I made 10+ years ago on a BMW forum:
_______________________________________________________________________
Given all the "if I do this, will my warranty blow up in my face" and "why'd I get pulled over for my 20000k headlights and my .5% tintz" posts, I thought that I would give my take on modding.

Don't be a lemming. Just because others are doing a particular mod doesn't mean you do.

Decide what advantages a certain mod have for you. Be honest - is it sound, appearance or performance. Remember that very few mods will actually improve performance or real world handling.

Do your research. What disadvantages does this mod have? Will it affect your warranty? What can some of the unintended consequences be? Has BMW (or another manufacturer) specifically warned against this type of mod? What are the legal implications? Do the cops in your area enforce that particular law? Is it unsafe to you or others?

Is the full cost of the mod (parts, labor, increased operating costs) worth the benefit?

And finally

Are you mentally and monetarily prepared to pay for both the mod and the consequences of the mod? This includes paying for damage that the dealer refuses to fix under warranty because they believe it was caused by the mod.
--------- response to a post -----------

Absolutely correct. Everyone needs to decide if the costs plus the tradeoffs are worth it for you.

Take the BBK as an example. By the time it is installed it will have set you back anywhere between $3500 and $4k. It will give you zero (let me repeat that - zero) benefits in day to day driving and, depending on the pads, may sound like a squealing pig. The only benefit (aside from cool painted calipers and possibly slotted rotors) is on the track.

If you never - or only very seldom - track your car then you really need to think about that mod and do a cost/benefit analysis.

You might decide that the cool factor is worth it - perfectly fine - but don't try to convince yourself that you'll get any day to day braking benefits.

The same holds true for most other mods.

The point of this thread is to get you to think about your mods, the benefits, the disadvantages and finally - to be honest with yourself about why you want to do the mod.

Most reasons are fine - improved performance - improved appearance (obviously subjective but you shouldn't care what anyone else thinks) - or just bragging rights.

Some mods can't be justified - those that are dangerous (but might look cool - ask yourself if there is a non - dangerous mod that accomplishes the same thing) and those that negatively affect others.

Let's look at a few examples

Dark tint on windshields (and even side windows) may reduce your visibility to the point of being dangerous at night. There have been some guys here that say "the tint is fine, I just roll my window down at night and look out that" - where was that guy when they handed out brains?

If your objective is heat/UV rejection, then you can get the identical (if not better) rejection using a 60% ceramic tint. If you objective is "looking cool" then you might want to reconsider that limo tint for something you can see out of at night. Find a buddy that has that tint and drive his car at night. Ask yourself objectively "is it safe?"

Higher Kelvin bulbs. We know (objectively) that the HID bulb that gives you the best balance between visibility and low glare is about 4300k. I didn't make that up, there have been a zillion studies on this - both here and Europe - we can accept that as a fact for current bulb technology. Going significantly higher will reduce usable visibility and increase glare for oncoming cars so, while bluer bulbs may look cool, they may be dangerous. Is there an alternative?

Whiter angel eye (or angle eye if you're into geometry) bulbs might even out the appearance of the front of your car and may make the headlights look "better" but may have warranty and reliability pitfalls - something that needs to be researched before you do that as an alternative to high Kelvin headlamps.

Now that I've beat a dead horse, let me give you a cliff notes version:

Modding a car to personalize it can be a good thing
Consider all the consequences and implication of your mod
Be prepared to pay for anything your mod breaks
Do your research
Be honest with yourself about the reasons for doing a mod

A few final bits of advice - don't go into debt for a mod that brings no actual driving performance improvements such as wheels, radios, paint and trim etc. Wait until you have the cash in hand to do those.

Virtually no mod will ever be recouped at resale unless you return the car to stock and sell the mods. The only mods that might make your a bit more desireable are very conservative appearance mods - legal tint in places like Florida for example. You won't get more money for your car but it might sell quicker.

Don't cheap out on important things like tires, brakes and maintenance. Although everyone under 25 is invincible, those things could save your life.

Respect the laws that affect others (catless exhausts, high Kelvin bulbs etc.)

So true. Thx.

 

[Bford6635]

This is what he needs

Amazon.com: BOLLAER Turbo Sound, Exhaust Pipe Oversized Roar Maker Car Turbo Whistle Noise Exhaust Muffler Pipe Whistle/Fake Blow Off Valve BOV Simulator (L): Toys & Games

lol

Yeah, but I think he may be using the wrong term. He'll figure it out though after watching a video or two. If it's not what he wants, he'll at least learn what it is.

Yeah, but I think he may be using the wrong term. He'll figure it out though after watching a video or two. If it's not what he wants, he'll at least learn what it is.

Starting at 4:15 in the video below, I think that's what he meant.

Starting at 4:15 in the video below, I think that's what he meant.

Yes this is it thank you!

 

[itskohler]

Not so much a MK7 stupid question, rather one about the forums.

I haven't had a VW in 4 years or so, and back then I was more into Vortex. Flash forward to present and I've noticed Vortex seems desolate. Came here to make an account but noticed I already had one with the same join date as my vortex account. What gives?

 

[jimlloyd40]

Not so much a MK7 stupid question, rather one about the forums.

I haven't had a VW in 4 years or so, and back then I was more into Vortex. Flash forward to present and I've noticed Vortex seems desolate. Came here to make an account but noticed I already had one with the same join date as my vortex account. What gives?

No idea but Welcome to the best MK7 forum.

 

[cb1111]

Not so much a MK7 stupid question, rather one about the forums.

I haven't had a VW in 4 years or so, and back then I was more into Vortex. Flash forward to present and I've noticed Vortex seems desolate. Came here to make an account but noticed I already had one with the same join date as my vortex account. What gives?

You must have signed up in the Mk5/6 forum back in 2011. there is no connection to VWVortex

 

[itskohler]

Ah, thats probably it. I was very active on JettaMKV around that time.

 

[Nineeightyone]

I cut my teeth on the whoretex back when I had my first mk4 -- on the one hand, lots of good information, and it kept me from doing dumb stuff to my car. On the other hand, that place had some downright toxic folks, which kind of made it suck. I avoided posting because of it.

Here, it's like the best parts of the 'tex, but with a far kinder userbase. I appreciate y'all.

edit: Question I just started thinking about -- is there any adjustment in rear toe from the factory on these cars, or do I need to get adjustable rear toe links? Looking at zeroing out rear toe for handling reasons, BUT if my only option is $200+ links, I've got other things I can/should spend my money on at the moment. Thanks all!

edit2: I'm dumb, glad I'm in the right thread.

answered my question, right from the start. Guess it's time to break out the tape measure!

 

[wasbaggedonce]

Possible reasons for a front passenger side clunk over bumps? All I can think of is that since I’m lowered, my end links are still a little too long and the sway bar is hitting the control arm.

Checked every bolt I could think of and everything is tight: subframe, endlinks, strut, control arm, engine mount, etc.

 

[Ghost GTI]

ECS - gloss black full replacement piece.

thanks! i was running the maxton gloss insert on the stock on for a while, but once i got the side skits with the gloss lower section the rear texture had to go fully.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-parts/mk75-gti-gloss-black-rear-diffuser/007565la01kt/

Is that the one? How's the fitment? Any reason you went with that over TCR?