Building a High Fidelity Sound System Build (Attempt)

[JackRabbitSLIM]

I'm confused about the trade offs too. Only because of the level of components going in.

Let's assume the speaker level outputs are full range. Aren't you concerned going D->A->D->A where the first conversion is done by the factory processor?

 

[averyislost]

AFAIK, first conversion will always be done by the head-unit. Replacing the unit, even with aftermarket, will still result in a digital to analog conversion, spitting out the analog signal as low-level RCA (which is preferable over speaker-level but not the end of the world with a good DSP). The DSP then sums/converts back to digital and reconverts to analog when it's done with the processing to then be amplified by the amp.

Only way to go from D->A->D->A TO D->D->A (one less conversion) would be to incorporate a head-unit made for our GTI with a toslink optical output. Or bypass headunit altogether using a DSP that accepts multiple inputs.. which that would be a good option but an option that leaves the stereo volume knob/steering wheel controls unusable.

Could be wrong on all this.. it's late and I've had plenty of leftover eggnog LOL

 

[mmdb]

Source signal stuff... It's not a priority for me, at the moment. Not sure if it's coming from the Fender Amp or if the MIB2 is powering speakers (my guess is the latter). It doesn't matter to me. Let me explain.

The BIGGEST dampener for SQ is the LOCATION of our speakers. Regardless of how clean the signal is, or how good/great the speakers are the sound system will have major dips in frequency response. I'll eventually get to the signal stuff (a/d etc) as soon as I sort out the speaker pointing exercise and building kicks for the midbass... and the sub enclosure... and tuning.

I redid the driver side pod to gain more volume. I felt the prior design would have "chocked" the driver. So I'm at it again. I decided to take up the space on the mini a-pillar window which will add more volume.

 

[tshrey]

That is certainly true about frequency response. It is awful in these cars; I measured it in another thread and there is a large hole in the midbass which makes everything sound so tinny.

 

[mmdb]

That is certainly true about frequency response. It is awful in these cars; I measured it in another thread and there is a large hole in the midbass which makes everything sound so tinny.

I always had that problem! Cancellation, door rattles, and infinite amount of work to deaden the door lead to mediocre improvements... very frustrating. I was revived in car audio when I saw PSSound's youtube channel. One in where he builds custom kicks for midbass and wideband speakers up on the a pillars. To me, the setup is the best of all worlds - no rattles for midbass... clean midbass, and the sound stage is up high.

And some more progress on the NZ3 pods. It's about 10mm thick after 2-3 layers of fiberglass chopped mat, a mat+woven layer, and finally a woven layer. Now to revisit aiming and building the walls of the speakers. I'll be using wood for the structure as much as I can. The manufacturer suggests .5 liters of volume. I'll get a little more than that after build the walls, strengthen and add additional resin + sand to give it some weight.

 

[JackRabbitSLIM]

I'll get a little more than that after build the walls, strengthen and add additional resin + sand to give it some weight.

You could glue some change in there, it'd probably be heavier than sand.

This is going to be so sweet. I've been looking at drivers since your OP to try this in my car to see what this type of system is like.

 

[mmdb]

You could glue some change in there, it'd probably be heavier than sand.

This is going to be so sweet. I've been looking at drivers since your OP to try this in my car to see what this type of system is like.

That's a really good idea! I was looking for weights etc... sand as well. But yeah. It'll do great laying face down. I'll consider it.

I did some speaker pointing today and mounted the ring. It's amazing to hear the speakers outside of the car, and inside. Inside the car... well you get massive reflections so the speaker, or any speaker, sounds very different. I wanted to minimize reflections, but ultimately point the speakers directly to my ears. The dash/window and side glass offer a bit of reflection. I'll have to add a carpeted dash mat maybe.

I'm a believer that you never want to cross fire the speakers in the a-pillar. I never understood why that was recommended. Off axis, you lose a lot of signal... mostly the high frequency. I assume some do it to tame the tweeter, and maybe they don't have an EQ, but you get all the "good stuff" if the speaker is pointed at you. Anyway.

These are pointed to my left ear and a tad upwards to clear the dash as much as possible. Next is finding an unlucky t-shirt and begin building the pod walls.

 

[mmdb]

Created puzzle pieces of wood and created the housing. Next up: fiber filler the outside and filling the inside with resin + sand + chopped mat.

 

[mmdb]

More progress with the pods:

(Driver side)

(Passenger side)

Kick panel (Passenger):

 

[mmdb]

Little bit more progress with the driver side speaker pod. There's a bit more sanding and body filler work, then I need to add speaker terminals. Not sure what a nice and simple option will be (open to ideas).

 

[JackRabbitSLIM]

Parts Express has lots of options. I use these for my home stuff, but any of them should be fine.

 

[tshrey]

What is your plan for the pillar trim? Mount the pods right to the pillar and then make the trim fit around them? Looks like you already cut the trim too short to make it an easy change If you bond the pod to the trim you have to have enough room for the trim to pivot if the airbag goes off.

 

[The Dude]

I've decided to run a 10" Audiofrog or JL W6 10" firing sideways in the rear hatch. This was mainly for space savings so my options were limited. My amps/process are under the floorboard so that was out the question.



Thanks! I'll update the first post with progress. Hope this helps!

there's a dude out there somewhere in the aether that builds a box that'll fit underneath the hatch floor, and on top of the spare, but it'll house a JL 13-TW5.

 

[El_bigote_AJ]

there's a dude out there somewhere in the aether that builds a box that'll fit underneath the hatch floor, and on top of the spare, but it'll house a JL 13-TW5.

no way OP needs a prebuilt box though, lol.

 

[The Dude]

no way OP needs a prebuilt box though, lol.

That is fair, just another option though. Maybe he decides to procure that sub and build his own. personally, I'd say build it into the inside of the rear seatback.