How to retro-fit the GTE air intake to a Mk7 Golf

[sloopercat]

My bad, did not recognize the model designation. Never mind.......

 

[golfdave]

My bad, did not recognize the model designation. Never mind.......

me thinks you had a brainfart...

 

[sloopercat]

Sort of, still question why anyone would add the blanking plate to cut off air flow that is designed to cool the engine bay. See this sort of thing in the GTI mod posts as well. I don’t think any ram air increase would offset the increase in under hood temps.

 

[tigeo]

Sort of, still question why anyone would add the blanking plate to cut off air flow that is designed to cool the engine bay. See this sort of thing in the GTI mod posts as well. I don’t think any ram air increase would offset the increase in under hood temps.

Because the engine bay is getting plenty of cooling through the grill and radiator. This small duct can't possibly be integral to engine cooling. My hypothesis is that it's just to keep the intake from getting blocked up (snow) so that it can pass through and still allow airflow to the intake.

 

[golfdave]

Sort of, still question why anyone would add the blanking plate to cut off air flow that is designed to cool the engine bay. See this sort of thing in the GTI mod posts as well. I don’t think any ram air increase would offset the increase in under hood temps.

please go read the first few posts... I explained this...

 

[shorty_cz]

Hi VWolks, just small remark. I’m also considering this or equivalent upgrade to provide more fresh air for the engine (mine is CZDA, same HW like Dave’s but a bit factory tuned SW). However, I remember from modifying older VW naturally aspirated petrol engines that changes of the intake length is having some effect on agility. A shorter one (prior to the throttle unit + MAP sensor) made the engine more agile in low revs but weigh on high revs performance. Does anybody noticed comparable change of feeling with this modification?

Coz opening the right side makes it shorter regardless installation of the water baffle and closing the left side. It leads me to possible solution to forget about the left side (let it blow/snow and to perhaps a bit cool the engine) and (almost) fully open the right side. The airbox on 1.4TSI is a tad higher above the air entrance meaning that the spray would need to come under the bonnet, turn left avoiding to exit thru the drain „penis“, than about a feet or more still to left than another 90deg turn upside…pretty complicated journey but I do not want to underestimated the dynamic of fluids.

 

[Mare]

shorty_cz, you are correct regarding the shorter and longer intake lengths and their effects on the rev performance. But this does only apply for naturally aspired engines. For turbo charged engines it is just a question of high and untroubled air flow. The performance in low and high rev ranges is mostly defined by size and geometry of the turbine and compressor wheels in the turbo charger.

 

[shorty_cz]

Thanks for your remarks. I will think about that - contacted the dealer and costs of the tune is relatively high (equals roughly to gasoline for a month) for two small pieces of plastic.

 

[Mare]

The intake on the Golf 7 1.4TSI is already a cold air intake. It's just, as you said, not so nicely designed imho. That is why I am also trying to rebuild it in a way that I imagine is better. I detailed this a little more in another thread.

 

[shorty_cz]

Yep, I saw the thread but since I still have factory warranty for another two years, I will refrain from visible tunes like putting large red hose in the middle of engine bay or to switch airboxes (although for another genuine version).

A bit OT but I did comparable swap in the past with Mk4 where airboxes of some petrol engines were integrated in large engine cover and got freaking hot. Moreover, bimetal controlled flaps to quit temporary heating from exhaust manifold broke up again and again (strange, on my Mk1 is still working perfectly). However, it was perfect place to re-heat take away pizza during trips.
Agility considerably improved when installed GTI/TDI box that sits closer to the headlights (basically the same area like EA888).

 

[Mare]

I liked the eye catcher effect of the red hose
But for the further changes I will switch to all black probably.

Yea, well, I guess the engineers didn't wanted to let the people eat cold Pizza. ^^
Although nice to hear, that moving the air box did have a effect. I am always a little bit confused by some decision, that are made by the manufactures. I guess in the end it is most times a cost factor.
At least they already improved the airflow from Golf 6 to Golf 7 alot, by switching the intake side of the turbo and shorten the way for the air from the airbox to turbo. (for the EA888)

 

[shorty_cz]

So I choose the original way for now - bought a cover plate and drilled few holes. I think I can feel the extra air - better agility when accelerating with low revs and high selected gear, e.g. when forced to slow down on highway when leaving after trucks are overtaking each other. Looking forward to try it with quality gasoline but borders to Austria are still closed.

Basically followed the guide from the first post. Just added some beer which is a need in our country. No need to measure holes gor cover legs - painted then with aqua based office corrector and carefully placed and than gradually drilled from small to large drills. Just curiosity for US friends, those drills were used to manufacture some part for space shuttles back in 80's.

 

[MQBdude3]

Part 5 of 5
Results
A cleaner engine bay for starters, by blocking off the left rear opening! Also having done various long drives over roads I know well, I can report the following:-
The turbo spools up much sooner & quicker & is quieter! Mainly because it can suck in more air, which is colder, it is not “straining” to pull the air in, so the noise is less & no “rasp” when high in the rev range! The whole engine response is smoother, quicker, more linear, less “lag”. I love it & it could have been like this from the factory!

Conclusions
The fact that the “B” version is all that is now made, & fitted to everything from a 1lt to the 2lt “R”, proves that VAG consider the airflow “adequate” for all climatic conditions & power outputs. The rear left blanking plate can still be fitted to the “B” version to meet the PR codes for “tropical zones” & “high water countries”, however the front right blanking plate cannot easily retro-fitted to the “C” version. So if you have a crash & have the “C” setup from factory how does the dealer/body shop refit exactly when the part is no longer made & has been superseded by part (B) which has no holes on the front right side?

What is strange is that the VAG engineers in the first place decided to make the “C” version & the front right plate “A” to let more air in & to do so without letting more water in. So there is sound engineering behind doing this mod & letting more air in via the front right side. Just VAG bean counters got in the way again & obviously asked the engineers if the “B” part will do to for all cars to cut the cost of having to make the “C” version & the front plate “A”.

 

[MQBdude3]

Part 3 of 5
Fitting
First you have to remove the whole air duct itself. There are 4 TX star screws to remove which are all visible on the top, two each side. Two are for the top “lid” the other two are for the actual main duct. Best to remove the two for the lid & undo the “tab” at top centre rear. The lid hinges at the front only a small amount, then pull forwards as at the front of the lid there are locating tags which slide into the duct. To remove the duct/air guide you have to lock in the release position the metal band around the pipe work to the air duct & pull the pipe work off. Then the duct needs to be pressed downwards from the screw positions where it has two tabs. It is best to move the duct to the right to lift the left side up, & thus the rest of the duct.

The rear left blanking plate:-
If your part “B” has exiting screw holes for this rear blanking plate, you can skip this bit, if not read on! Clean the area where the rear blanking plate will fit, & then press fit the blanking plate into position. Now using a sharp pointed nail, bradawl etc., mark on the duct the positions of the screw holes in the two tabs. Remember to hold the plate firmly in the correct position whilst doing this to be 100% accurate! Then using a 2mm or 3mm drill bit (for metal) carefully drill the holes, then repeat with a 4.5mm or 5mm max drill bit. I used a 4.5mm & allowed it to spin slowly to clean cut the edges. Trim with a sharp knife any plastic burrs. Fit the blanking plate & the two screws. Use some oil on the screws & go slowly as you have to cut the threads in the plastic “block” with the screws.

Great stuff here! Looking to replicate your GTE air mods. How many holes are drilled in the third chamber (far right, from the front) of the blocked off portion? Your pics don't really show it well. Looks like maybe 2 or 3? I'm trying to match the unobtanium OEM part as closely as possible.

 

[MQBdude3]

These parts are from the GTE.....this is a hybrid car which as I stated has the same 1.4lt petrol engine as mine..but it also has a hybrid electric drive unit also shoehorned into the engine bay...

The all electric MK7 Golf is called e-Golf...

Great stuff here! Looking to replicate your GTE air mods. How many holes are drilled in the third chamber (far right, from the front) of the blocked off portion? Your pics don't really show it well. Looks like maybe 2 or 3? I'm trying to match the unobtanium OEM part as closely as possible.